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View Full Version : Stanley 151 Spokeshave Restoration, New Member Intro



Brent VanFossen
11-28-2011, 1:20 AM
Hello, all. I'm a new member, and live in the Portland, OR area.

A few weeks ago, I bought a Stanley 151 spokeshave at an antique show. $17.50, which seemed like a fair price. It needed some care, as you can see in the before photos.

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It had some light rust and marks on the sole. The blade was dull, of course, but it also seemed to have the original mill marks on the bevel - it had never been sharpened. Worse, the bed that supports the blade was crowned in the center, and the blade would rock depending where I put pressure.

First, I flattened the back of the spokeshave blade on a diamond plate, then progressed through the waterstones. Then I worked on the spokeshave body.

To flatten the bed, I needed a thin flat tool that I could use to support some sandpaper. The blade on this spokeshave is 2 1/8 inch. I found an inexpensive Huck Brothers 2-inch plane blade for $3 that would do the trick. Being cheap, it was also thin, but very stiff - just what I needed. The bevel would help it get in deeper. It had to be flattened itself first. Then I attached 120 grit sandpaper with spray adhesive, and went to work. You can see my method below. I blunted the edge slightly to avoid damaging the spokeshave or myself.
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It would have taken a lot more work to flatten the entire area. I stopped when all the high spots were removed, and I couldn't rock it regardless of where I pushed.
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The sole needed work. I flattened it with diamond plate and waterstones until all the corrosion was removed and the sole was flat across its entire width and length.
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I hollow-ground the blade on the Jet sharpener, then put a razor edge on it using waterstones up to 8000. Here it is assembled, and you can see the mirror surface at the cutting edge.
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All that was left now was to put a piece of pine in the vise and make some shavings. There's really nothing much more satisfying than the feel and sound of a sharp new tool that you've restored yourself.

Brent VanFossen
11-28-2011, 1:22 AM
Here is the final photo, all assembled, and in the middle of the first shavings. Perhaps I got a little carried away.

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Jim Koepke
11-28-2011, 2:53 AM
Howdy Brent and welcome to the Creek.

Nice work on the spoke shave. I have been giving mine a bit of a workout lately making some wooden spoons.

Looks like we aren't too far from each other.

jtk

Bill Houghton
11-28-2011, 11:09 AM
Spokeshaves are another of the tools that are so much fun it's surprising they're not illegal. Nice cleanup job on the shave.

Chris Griggs
11-28-2011, 11:28 AM
Cool - thanks for showing us the process. Welcome to the Creek.

Prashun Patel
11-28-2011, 11:32 AM
I just got a 151 and feel your joy. Have fun with it; mine's been a revelation after working with the 'tap-and-pray' style adjustment spokeshaves.

Jeff L Miller
11-28-2011, 12:44 PM
Brent, welcome and great job on the shave.

I live in Portland as well and am glad to have another member here.

Jeff

Brent VanFossen
11-28-2011, 2:40 PM
Thanks for the warm welcomes. This seems a fine group.

Jeff Schmidt
11-28-2011, 7:02 PM
I really like your improvements, Brent. I do not think that you went overboard at all. In fact, Brian Boggs (http://www.finewoodworking.com/SkillsAndTechniques/SkillsAndTechniquesPDF.aspx?id=2803) suggests bedding a piece of cardstock over epoxy under the blade and adding a thick, brass chipbreaker.

john davey
11-28-2011, 7:10 PM
Welcome and nice job. Glad to see someone found a use for them $3 blades :)

Bill Houghton
11-28-2011, 11:28 PM
I just got a 151 and feel your joy. Have fun with it; mine's been a revelation after working with the 'tap-and-pray' style adjustment spokeshaves.

There are, however, some advantages of the simpler style of Stanley shave (No. 51 or 52) over the 151. In particular, the 51/52 will go into tighter inside corners; if you're working on anything wider than the inside distance between the adjusting nuts, the nuts can drag on the stock, preventing you from getting into the corner.

I've gotten used to the tap-and-pray shaves, and now prefer the straight-handled No. 52 - I gave away my 151.

Prashun Patel
11-29-2011, 9:11 AM
I agree about the tight quarters; I still use my non-adjustable for that on occasion. However, I find a coarse rasp does a better job of tuning in the tightest spaces. By skewing the angle of presentation of the rasp, I'm able to get better fidelity to the desired curve than with a spokeshave.

Steve Beadle
12-01-2011, 9:51 PM
Hi, Brent! I know you'll enjoy the time you spend on the Creek. I'm always glad to see another woodworker from near the same neck of the woods as myself (Oregon City), too!
I bought an old Stanley spokeshave a couple of years ago. I can't remember the model number at the moment, but it's the one with two blades--one for flat work and one with a concave blade for rounding over. I fettled it a bit, but I think I need to do a more complete job. I also have a Veritas low angle spokeshave which I really enjoy using. Thanks for sharing how you fettled your spokeshave. Perhaps it will inspire me to take another run at mine.
Steve

Brent VanFossen
12-02-2011, 2:08 AM
Do go back to it. Mine cuts like a dream. Thanks for the welcome.

Brent VanFossen
12-02-2011, 2:15 AM
The epoxy is a good idea. I may give the chipbreaker idea a try as well. Thanks!