3 of a Kind

[dan carter]

Maple mugs times three. Brushed lacquer sealer, tung oil finish, and beall buffed.

FYI: Interesting conversation with Powermatic the other day. My tailstock quill has been progressively getting stiffer and harder to advance. A year ago or so they sent me a new one. The Powermatic tech now informs me that the quill and screw were not made for drilling, that they should be taken to a machine shop and hardened. But I could clean it to see if that helped. After removing the quill, I cleaned out the tailstock with a piece of sandpaper taped to a dowel and then with mineral spirits per their instructions. It did help some, but is still pretty hard to advance. When it is extended 3 3/4 inches or so, it advances easily like it should. I now use Marvel Mystery Oil. Have tried several different lubes and the Marvel Mystery Oil seems to be working the best. I have drilled mugs in the past, but looks like I'll be used my boring bar from now on.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Wow Dan those are nice. Fit and finish look good. Hope you get that tailstock fix. Mine got so stiff that I took it apart, used some sandpaper on the inside and went down the threads on mine with a diamond file in case there was something I couldn't see. I lubed it with a spray that dries and it worked great.

[Greg Just]

Nice looking mugs Dan. I make a lot of these by gluing up staves and hollow out using a Termite tool. I used to drill, but the bits didn't last too long. I have a Jet 1642 - wonder if I will have the same issue you described.

[Jim Burr]

Wow Dan those are nice. Fit and finish look good. Hope you get that tailstock fix. Mine got so stiff that I took it apart, used some sandpaper on the inside and went down the threads on mine with a diamond file in case there was something I couldn't see. I lubed it with a spray that dries and it worked great.

My 1014 needs that! If it doesn't work...you're heading to Ca Bernie!!
Dan...those are great!! Seems like a lot of wood to use for those. Do tell!!

[dan carter]

I have used Bostik's Dry Coat on the quill. On the tailstock, you are talking two places which may/may not need lube: the outside of the quill and/or the inside where the threads are. If you take out the threaded shaft, the quill should slide nice and easy. The outside of the quill does get dirty and grimy. I use the dry coat on colt's maxicut forstner bits. they are drilling fools, imho. they make all other forstner bits obsolete.

[Steve Schlumpf]

Nice looking mugs Dan! I like how the exterior is not flat! Hope you get the tailstock figured out!

[robert baccus]

Dan, you might check the widget that runs in the square groove on the back side of the quill. a friend had the same problem and fixed that widget; it keeps the quill from rotating and takes quite a beating.-------------old forester

[dan carter]

Dan, you might check the widget that runs in the square groove on the back side of the quill. a friend had the same problem and fixed that widget; it keeps the quill from rotating and takes quite a beating.-------------old forester

Yes it does take a beating. I have often thought I should redesign the tailstock. This would be a good place to put a keyway. Anyway, I have adjusted it. Thanks.

[Harry Robinette]

I clean and lube my tail stock quill about ever 8 to 10 months. I've been using PG2000 Woodcraft carrys it and so far ( like the last 3 times I used it ) seams to be doing a great job.

[dan carter]

that's good to know harry. i'll get some and give it a try. thanks.