trimming laminate after it is glued to substrate

[James Baker SD]

I am adding some new cabinets in our kitchen, but SWMBO likes the old (yikes) Walnut formica stuff we have so my assignment was to make the news look like the old ones. I found a Walnut laminate sheet (about 1/40" thick) that I will glue to Ash and Baltic Birch ply substrate with contact cement. Last night I tried my first glue-up covering three 2" wide Ash styles for the fronts of one cabinet. I deliberately cut the laminate a little large ( (1/32" or soon all sides) so I would not have to perfectly place the workpieces since there is little opportunity to readjust after contact is made.

Question now is how to flush trim the laminate. I think a router with flush trim bit is the norm, but I have fear of it chipping the laminate if the amount being trimmed is too great. Also I will have several very thin (~3/4") pieces and I fear keeping the router perpendicular to those thin pieces. Final problem is type the kitchen is weird and some of the joints (cabinet side to cabinet front) are not 90 degrees, but 75 degrees. I fear the router cannot easily flush trim this angle.

Question. Can a sharp low angle block plane do the flush trimming for me? Maybe first use one of those flexible Japanese flush cut saws with no set to get close first?

Any other suggestions?

Thanks.
James

[Jerome Stanek]

With a sharp bit you should be able to trim off as much as you want. I use one to split laminate in the field. using a trim router is easier also.

[Jamie Schmitz]

You will need a laminate trimmer type router for control,also to help with edges just clamp on another piece of stock. So do the edges first and trim it with a flush trim router bit. Then lay on the surface piece of laminate and use an 8° bevel bit to trim it. On the inside corners that you will not be able to do you can use a file. For the angled faces you will need a laminate trimmer that has an tilting base.

214011

[Paul Girouard]

Re-facing can get you into some different situations.

Get a offset router base for your P-Lam trimmer, use a bullet style bit , you can get into tighter corners with this set up. With a bullet bit you do need to lube the surface the bullet rides on , I use simple Vaseline , simple wipe it on with disposable brush or finger , do the routing , then before you file the P. lam wipe down the area with a rag to remove most of the Vaseline, it clogs up the file, sure it's easy to clean the file with a file card , but you'll save some of that by wiping down before you file.

Yes a block plane can help , another big help in corner is a sharp chisel , a crank neck is best.

End nippers help as well to cut the bulk out of places as well.


Crank neck :

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/1.jpg

Router and bit:

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/sept17009.jpg

A little tape on the file tip helps reduce scratches , sort of like training wheels ,

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/sept17011-1.jpg

Use a brush to apply Vaseline,

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/sept17016-2.jpg


Excess can be nipped off with end nippers: Also in this case I pictured you could run a belt sander over the excess as long as you run it so your pulling in on the P.Lam , never file or sand "outward".

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/sept17017.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b299/PEG688/sept17018.jpg


You'll run into some interesting cuts on a re-face be creative , hope this post helps.

G/L