Tung Oil

[Bernie Weishapl]

I have a question for all you who use Tung Oil as a finish. I got some of the Tung Oil and Tung Oil sealer from Lee Valley. They sell it under their name for Sutherland-Welles. Anyway my question is they say/told me not to sand more than 220 grit or the tung oil won't penetrate. I have always sanded bowls, HF, etc to 320 or 400 grit. How far do you sand when using Tung Oil? Wasn't really satisfied with the sanding stopping at 220. I mean it does look pretty good but you can see a few sanding lines in small spots and this is a Ash bowl I am finishing. Anyway your thoughts would be appreciated.

[Mark Levitski]

Bernie, I'm not convinced that it won't penetrate over 220 grit, but why don't you just thin it down for better penetration, or just use more coats of the sealer? We tried LV polymerized tung oil and lked it. No problems with it not penetrating, but we did thin it. We like either Waterlox (tung oil based) or MinWax Antique Oil better, with the AO seemingly easier to apply and keep from gelling up.

Mark

[Jim Burr]

I use Formbys Tung Oil Finish, don't know if they are the same type or not...but I sand most stuff to 400-600 and seem to get good penetration.

[Carl Civitella]

I used pure Tung Oil and thinned the 1st coat with turpentine 50/50 then when that absorbs or drys i use straight Tung Oil. Seems to work for me. Carl

[David E Keller]

I use Formbys Tung Oil Finish, don't know if they are the same type or not...but I sand most stuff to 400-600 and seem to get good penetration.

What he said!

[David DeCristoforo]

"...they say/told me not to sand more than 220 grit or the tung oil won't penetrate..."

??? Might be attributable to the common practice of "subbing out" technical support to other countries where those answering the phone might not have all that good a grip on the language. Maybe they use a different "grit rating" system in India or China. Or maybe they are selling extra thick, non penetrating tung oil. Perhaps, in an effort to conserve energy, they are leaving the tung oil "chunky" rather than "smooth" resulting in larger oil molecules that are too big to penetrate the surface of the wood. Of course, those suggestions are completely asinine but no less so than the quoted statement.

[John Keeton]

I use Formbys Tung Oil Finish, don't know if they are the same type or not...Not even close, Jim. It is my understanding that Formby's has no tung oil - it is simply a wiping varnish like the several others out there. This (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?15837-Tung-Oil-BLO-Danish-Oil-is-there-a-difference) is a good thread in the Finishing forum on some of the differences in tung oil, BLO and Danish oil.

Usually the level of sanding is related to the viscosity of the finish. Just sand to get the finish you need and thin it as suggested.

[Baxter Smith]

Bernie, I ordered those two cans about a year and a half ago. There were written directions that came with them but not on the can. Don't know if they are still in my finish cabinet or not. I don't remember anything about the sanding. The part I remember in particular was about mixing the sealer with the finish to reduce the gloss depending on the proportions of sealer to finish.

I used the sealer on everything to begin with but didn't find that it seemed to make too much difference. Also used it to cut the finish and reduce the gloss. I think I mentioned something about using it in an earlier thread and Leo Vanderloo gave me the impression he just used the finish without the sealer. I have added water to my can as I have used the finish(following the directions to keep the amount of air down in the can). Since I am getting some water when I pour out some finish now, I must be reaching the end of it. If I order some more, I doubt I will get the sealer.
Back to the sanding question, I go to 4,6,or 800 depending on the piece. The finish alone seems thicker than AO or the Bush Oil I have used.

[Wally Dickerman]

I've never even considered finishing up with 220...I usually use Daly's tung oil finish and go to 600 and sometime even 1500.

A 220 finish wouldn't pass muster in a juried show.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Thanks to all for your response. Baxter that is what I was wondering. The sealer just seems to me to be their tung oil finish. I just went out and thinned some using MS 50/50 and it looks the same as the sealer. So think I will just order the finish and maybe on the first coat mix it 50/50 then apply the tung oil finish right out of the can. I did notice that the sealer really soaked in big time so just keep adding till it stopped. Wiped it off and it does leave a nice surface. I will just go ahead and sand as usual to 320 or 400 then finish.

Wally I understand about not passing muster for a juried show at 220. That was why I was concerned if used on something other than utility items. This bowl is already delegated to be in the kitchen per the Mrs. I generally don't sand utility items much past 320.

[John Keeton]

I think the 220 idea comes from flatwork. Most folks feel that if you are using a "built up" finish on flatwork sanding to 220 is sufficient. In most cases, I agree. But, keep in mind, there is little end grain in furniture work - not so in round work. And, as Wally has stated, the expectations for turned objects are much, much higher. If I were going to use an "in the wood" oil finish, I would sand to at least 600.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Thanks John. I do sand higher on bowls that will display like fruit, candy, etc. I just haven't seen the need to go much above 320 or 400 for utility bowls. I check the surface with DNA or mineral spirits until I am satisfied with it.