which box joint jig to buy Rockler or Woodsmith

[tom coleman]

I am going to buy a box joint jig this week to be used on my router table for small gift boxes. Looks like Rockler and Woodsmith have the best offerings. Any strong feeling for one or the other. I will also purchase up spiral router bits for this project. I'm looking at MLCS router bits, is this a good choice?

[Ray Newman]

Can you wait about a month or so?

See below for a revolutionary box joint jig from INCRA:
http://www.woodworkslive.com/index.php/topic,11570.0.html (http://www.woodworkslive.com/index.php/topic,11570.0.html)

And
http://www.woodworkslive.com/index.php/topic,11625.0.html (http://www.woodworkslive.com/index.php/topic,11625.0.html)

[Bill Trouard]

I have the Rockler and MLCS carbide 3 piece bit set, it seems to work fine. the plastic fence does flex a bit if your not careful

[John Fabre]

Can you wait about a month or so?

See below for a revolutionary box joint jig from INCRA:
http://www.woodworkslive.com/index.php/topic,11570.0.html (http://www.woodworkslive.com/index.php/topic,11570.0.html)

And
http://www.woodworkslive.com/index.php/topic,11625.0.html (http://www.woodworkslive.com/index.php/topic,11625.0.html)

Ray, do have a picture, the link wants a log in.

[Bill Huber]

Here are two threads on the Rockler one, now at $60 which is not a bad price.
I get most of my router bits from Eagle America,not the Price Chopper ones, the bit are very good and the price are as good as any.


http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?141170-Rockler-s-Box-Joint-Jig-......-Review&highlight=box+joint

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?142170-Follow-up-on-Rockler-Box-Joint-Jig&highlight=box+joint

[Dan Bowman]

A different link to the new Incra box joint jig: http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tools/reviews/more/2012-wood-magazine-innov8-awards/?catref=wd200&page=4

[John TenEyck]

Why spend money on a box joint jig that you can easily make yourself for almost nothing and less than a half hour of your time, that is customized to the job and will work just as well (or better))? Makes no sense to me.

[Richard McComas]

Why spend money on a box joint jig that you can easily make yourself for almost nothing and less than a half hour of your time, that is customized to the job and will work just as well (or better))? Makes no sense to me.May I see a picture of the one you made?

[Alan Schaffter]

Tom, tomorrow, I will make a separate post about the new INCRA jig mentioned in the links in Ray's post and at Dan's link to Wood Magazine's web site (Wood selected the jig for one of their "Innov-8" awards)

It won't be out until January but I think it is well worth waiting for. It uses a mechanism totally different from any previous jig, that is incredibly easy to set, no calipers needed, works on both router table and tablesaw and is continuously variable- no need for templates, will make any size joint with tiny 1/8" up to robust 3/4" fingers and a few special finger joints as well.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/2404/medium/IBOX_Photo-1.jpg

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/2404/medium/boxes2.jpg

[Bob Wingard]

As usual, INCRA stuff looks to be exceptionally well built ... BUT ... way too pricey for what it does. The plans for the WOODSMITH one look very similar in function to the INCRA, just not as elegant ... and no where near the $$$$$. I built two of them yesterday, and the total cost was under $20.

[Carroll Courtney]

This what I have which is for sale,at the Wood Working Show it was very impressive.Will do more than just box joints.I lost interest in making jewelry boxes and never use it.
http://www.ptreeusa.com/multi_jjoint.htm

[Alan Schaffter]

As usual, INCRA stuff looks to be exceptionally well built ... BUT ... way too pricey for what it does. The plans for the WOODSMITH one look very similar in function to the INCRA, just not as elegant ... and no where near the $$$$$. I built two of them yesterday, and the total cost was under $20.

Once you look at all the features and how the INCRA works, I think you'll see the DIY or retail Woodsmith jigs just don't measure up in any category; once you use it, you'll be convinced. About the only "similarity" is they both have a fence and at least one knob. The biggest difference is the INCRA "Positioning Engine." You turn two knobs and need calipers to adjust the finger size on the Woodsmith jig, the INCRA uses one knob to set precise finger sizes and you don't need calipers or other measuring devices to do it. The retail WS jig MUST be mounted to your miter gauge- the INCRA is self-standing with its own precision, adjustable miter bar (so it will fit any TS or router table). The WS fence uses a special backer strip only available from them- you can make your own, inexpensive replacements for the INCRA. The INCRA comes with guards- none supplied or available with the WS. At one time or another, I've built most of the DIY jigs out there- Woodsmith/Shopnotes, Wood, Lynns jig, jigs with multiple replacement pin fences, etc. They all have one or more issues not present with the INCRA jig. There is just no comparison.

[Steven Wayne]

Great! I want one... now ;)

[Phil Thien]

I made one that attaches to my router lift. It is similar to the one offered by the Router Workshop guys, but offers very fine adjustment via the pivoting action and the locking knob.

The downside is that the unit is dedicated to 1/4", you need separate ones for each size finger.

[John TenEyck]

May I see a picture of the one you made?

This is the fanciest one, a Woodsmith design I believe, that I used with my old router table.
213911

But now I generally use something as simple as this, screwed to my miter gage. It works equally well on a table saw or router table. 213912

For example, these were cut with the later jig and a dado blade on my TS:

213913

[Alan Schaffter]

I made one that attaches to my router lift. It is similar to the one offered by the Router Workshop guys, but offers very fine adjustment via the pivoting action and the locking knob.

The downside is that the unit is dedicated to 1/4", you need separate ones for each size finger.

That was the issue I had with most jigs. A friend made one of the "easy-to-make and use", "accurate" jigs found in one of the WW mags, then spent some time pulling his hair because he couldn't get it to work worth a darn. He eventually discovered his router bit was a few thou under-sized!

A few years ago I put quite a bit of effort into making this jig (from a WW mag?) with replaceable fixed guide pin/fences. Each replaceable pin/fence had its own fine adjustment, too. What I found out was that my router bits and dado blades weren't always the same size- I didn't realize it was easy to stack the blades so they were off by a few thou from session to session!

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/medium/P3040016.JPG

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/medium/guidefence.JPG

Main fence fine adjustment target pad:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/medium/P3040019.JPG

Replaceable fence adjusting screw:

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/medium/adjustscrew1.JPG

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/medium/adjustpoint.JPG

Bottom line- it just didn't work!

The beauty of the INCRA jig is that cutter size doesn't matter! You set the jig to the notch made by whatever cutter you are using- and when you do that the "Positioning Engine" automatically makes the other critical setting!

[Steven Wayne]

Is it January yet??

[Ted Wong]

I wouldn't spend money on either.
A few years ago I had a student in my shop build one of these:

http://woodgears.ca/box_joint/jig_plans/index.html

Once you've used it everything else is passé

[Bob Wingard]

Once you look at all the features and how the INCRA works, I think you'll see the DIY or retail Woodsmith jigs just don't measure up in any category; once you use it, you'll be convinced. About the only "similarity" is they both have a fence and at least one knob. The biggest difference is the INCRA "Positioning Engine." You turn two knobs and need calipers to adjust the finger size on the Woodsmith jig, the INCRA uses one knob to set precise finger sizes and you don't need calipers or other measuring devices to do it. The retail WS jig MUST be mounted to your miter gauge- the INCRA is self-standing with its own precision, adjustable miter bar (so it will fit any TS or router table). The WS fence uses a special backer strip only available from them- you can make your own, inexpensive replacements for the INCRA. The INCRA comes with guards- none supplied or available with the WS. At one time or another, I've built most of the DIY jigs out there- Woodsmith/Shopnotes, Wood, Lynns jig, jigs with multiple replacement pin fences, etc. They all have one or more issues not present with the INCRA jig. There is just no comparison.

I DO NOT need any calipers to setup my homemade Woodsmith jig ... ALL jigs need SOME form of a guide, whether it be mounted on runners or screwed to a miter gauge ... I happen to have a few extra miter gauges, so I really don't mind using one of them for mounting my jig as opposed to paying lots of bucks for the Incra bar ...my jig uses a simple piece of MDF or hardboard for a zero clearance insert, which is replaced in seconds by loosening a single wing but. With my jig, I simply stack up some dado blades ... make a single test cut ... use that cut to adjust the finger width ... then adjust the location with another fine screw ... lock it down and cut. It still cost me less than $10 per jig, and the end result is still the same ... perfect box joints every time ... HOW does the Incra improve on that ???

[Alan Schaffter]

I wouldn't spend money on either.
A few years ago I had a student in my shop build one of these:

http://woodgears.ca/box_joint/jig_plans/index.html

Once you've used it everything else is passé

Mathias Wandel sure makes some incredible DIY machines! But, if you are able to successfully make his box joint jig, which in reality is just a version of Lynn's jig with a crank and wooden gear, try using it to make joints with fingers that are not EXACT multiples of 1/32" (or 1/16"?) - by design or because the router bit is off-size, or the dado is not set properly. It is certainly possible, but try adding and keeping track of fractional rotations of the crank handle.

[Alan Schaffter]

... then adjust the location with another fine screw ... lock it down and cut. HOW does the Incra improve on that ?

How do you "adjust the location" and know it is correct? Calipers? Do you use the "adjust, test, re-adjust, test again" method?

In the manual for the retail version of the Woodsmith jig it really doesn't say how you are supposed do it either. It says: ". . . turn the moveable material rest adjustment (top knob) until the key is exactly one slot width away from the blade." Again, how do you know the spacing is EXACTLY one slot width without calipers or multiple test cuts? A good box joint fit depends on all settings being within a few thousandths of an inch.

I, and as I discovered on multiple WW forums, other woodworkers, have used that type of jig and found setting it precisely is possible but it is not quite as simple as you make it sound. One friend who owns the retail version of the Woodsmith jig, finally gave up attempting to use it to make more than one finger size- once he finally got it set correctly for 1/4" fingers, he left it there- that really limits its usefulness. To see how critical setup, especially blade to pin spacing, is watch the Wood magazine video (http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodvision/?titleId=4255200&videoId=4255200), about making and using a simple fixed finger box joint jig. The lead-in says "Don't spend a ton of money on a box joint jig. Master Craftsman Chuck Hedlund shows you how to create this simple (fixed) box joint jig from scraps." Looks soooo easy, but go to the 6:23 mark and watch the part where he discusses his earlier joint that was too loose and what is needed to tune the fit- will the fence move if it is screwed to the miter gauge when he taps it???? The same point is made for a similar "shop-made jig with micro-adjust (that) guarantees perfect joints" on the American Woodworker (http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/techniques/archive/2009/11/03/tablesaw-box-joints.aspx) website. They mess around with paper shims to get the spacing right! An adjustable jig requires this level of accuracy too and it must be done for each finger size!

If for some reason you need to adjust the fit, the INCRA jig can be adjusted in increments as small as .001", actually less. (the thinnest, #10 wt. bond paper is .002" thick)

I can actually stack the dado, dial in the guide pin width using a cut in a scrap, then make the joint. I don't need to set the location of the guide pins! The INCRA's "positioning engine" does that. Then, if I want, I can immediately change the dado, reset the finger width with another cut in some scrap, and without worrying about re-setting the location, immediately make a joint with the new size fingers! The guide pin location is re-set automatically and perfectly! I would never do it without a safety observer, but if someone picks a random dado setting (unseen by me), I can set the jig and cut a joint blindfolded!

It really works like I say. But everyone has their own needs and wants. Like Mathias- he could use metal and phenolic to make his jigs more durable, but he likes making them as inexpensively as possible. I am a tinkerer and frugal too, so typically make my own jigs when I can. I built most of the DIY box joint jig designs and found them all lacking. That is how this jig came about.

[Phil Thien]

Alan, your point is not lost on me.

I use 1/4" spiral bits in my router to make finger joints. They're Whiteside bits, they're .250", not .251" or .249".

One day I had setup my jig and ran some pieces, but couldn't assemble them. Too tight.

After scratching my head for a while, I realized my brass setup bar was not made from stock with a perfectly square cross-section. It measured .248" on one side, and something like .251" on the other. This time I happened to use the .251" side, and my joints wouldn't go together. I was just lucky that I had previously used the .248" side.

The Inca device looks very clever.

I probably can't afford one, but I imagine it is worth every penny they will charge.

[Terry Rasmussen]

There are plans for for a box joint jig in dec/jan 2011 Wood magazine

[James White]

Ray,

Is that a private (invite only) form? It says registration is disabled. The links you provided require a log in.

James


Can you wait about a month or so?

See below for a revolutionary box joint jig from INCRA:
http://www.woodworkslive.com/index.php/topic,11570.0.html (http://www.woodworkslive.com/index.php/topic,11570.0.html)

And
http://www.woodworkslive.com/index.php/topic,11625.0.html (http://www.woodworkslive.com/index.php/topic,11625.0.html)

[James White]

Alan,

How do you know so much about this new Incra product? Is there some link you can share with us? I love Incra's products and would like to know more.

James

[Alan Schaffter]

Ray,

Is that a private (invite only) forum? It says registration is disabled. The links you provided require a log in.

James
I forget why (anti-SPAM?), but The Wood Works forum at Ray's link recently went to a "by invitation only" membership. FYI, TWW was started some years ago by folks who left The Oak Factory when its founder passed away and the forum deteriorated into a political one. I believe it is open to anyone, you just need to request admission.

The text at the first link, a little history of the development, was quoted by someone here (http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=41966). I haven't gotten a chance to post in on SMC and am not even sure it will be allowed, even though it will be sold by SMC paid advertisers.

[Alan Schaffter]

Alan, your point is not lost on me.

I use 1/4" spiral bits in my router to make finger joints. They're Whiteside bits, they're .250", not .251" or .249".

One day I had setup my jig and ran some pieces, but couldn't assemble them. Too tight.

After scratching my head for a while, I realized my brass setup bar was not made from stock with a perfectly square cross-section. It measured .248" on one side, and something like .251" on the other. This time I happened to use the .251" side, and my joints wouldn't go together. I was just lucky that I had previously used the .248" side.

The Inca device looks very clever.

I probably can't afford one, but I imagine it is worth every penny they will charge.

Phil, I think you hit the nail on the head. There are things you can do to any jig so it will not work properly, but the INCRA is considerably less susceptible to them than other jigs I have used and it is totally immune to cutter dimension issues. Just like with the Woodsmith Jig, if you are not careful and don't ensure the guide pins fit the setup cut snugly or are ham-fisted and over-drive the adjustment so they fit too tightly, your joints won't fit well. The INCRA's "positioning engine", however, automatically and correctly sets the pin-to-blade distance which eliminates the major cause of bad joints. By following the instructions and an incredibly short learning curve- perfect joints are a snap! It is totally possible for a rookie to make a perfect joint on the first attempt.

[Alan Schaffter]

Alan,

How do you know so much about this new Incra product? Is there some link you can share with us? I love Incra's products and would like to know more.

James

See the "here" link in my post above.

[James White]

Alan,

Thank you for sharing. It looks like a real winner to me.

Do you know how one would go about requesting registration for TWW?

James


I forget why (anti-SPAM?), but The Wood Works forum at Ray's link recently went to a "by invitation only" membership. FYI, TWW was started some years ago by folks who left The Oak Factory when its founder passed away and the forum deteriorated into a political one. I believe it is open to anyone, you just need to request admission.

The text at the first link, a little history of the development, was quoted by someone here (http://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=41966). I haven't gotten a chance to post in on SMC and am not even sure it will be allowed.

[Alan Schaffter]

Alan,

Thank you for sharing. It looks like a real winner to me.

Do you know how one would go about requesting registration for TWW?

James

Send me a PM with your email address and IP address (if you have it) and I'll forward them to the senior moderator.

[Phil Thien]

It looks like the price for the unit will be about $150, which is much lower than I anticipated. In fact, I'd say that was a bargain for a device that eliminates all the trial/error. I never have enough prepared stock for trial/error.

I hope my local Rockler store carries them.

Good work, Alan.

[Alan Schaffter]

It looks like the price for the unit will be about $150, which is much lower than I anticipated. In fact, I'd say that was a bargain for a device that eliminates all the trial/error. I never have enough prepared stock for trial/error.

I hope my local Rockler store carries them.

Good work, Alan.

Thanks!

I'm not privy to pricing or marketing, but I suspect there will be deals, and while each individual vendor and franchise holder chooses what to sell, many of the usual suspects carry some INCRA stuff. Rockler does have a competing (sort of!?!?!), limited capability box joint jig.

Being a cheap skate, I continue to be amazed by what some stuff sells for these days! Leigh Jigs makes some really nice stuff, I have a D-4R, but their new R9 fixed template jig is pretty pricey for what it is. I got a deal when I bought my D-4R years ago; it wasn't much more than an R9 costs today, now look at the price! You would be surprised (maybe not) however, how quickly the manufacturing cost and retail prices go up when you start adding up all the components, not only the expensive unique manufactured extrusions, assemblies, and parts, but every little screw, bolt, washer, etc., etc.!

[Jeffrey Makiel]

It's kind of fun building your own.

Below is a series of pics that shows you my build. It's basically a compilation of designs by others.

What I like most is that it has repeatable accuracy versus the 'stop block' design that accumulates error.

I've never tried the commercial fixtures. I must admit, they're reasonable in cost if accuracy is attained.

Here's some pics of mine. If you have any questions, please PM me.

Jeff :)

214054

214055

214056

214057

214058

[richard poitras]

Allen, congratulation and the new I Box, I can’t wait to get my hands on one. :cool: Also I see you are this month's wood magazine featured Top Shop Tip / "stretching" short scraps for projects”.
You’re on a roll buddy….:)

[Alan Schaffter]

Allen, congratulation and the new I Box, I can’t wait to get my hands on one. :cool: Also I see you are this month's wood magazine featured Top Shop Tip / "stretching" short scraps for projects”.
You’re on a roll buddy….:)

Thanks! Yup, this fall I sure have been on a roll and having a blast - first FWW, then Wood, and soon AWW and Shopnotes, but I'm no Serge Duclos the king of tips! Plus sometime next year the jig! But I really need to get back to making sawdust.

[chelsy hurry]

A different link to the new Incra box joint jig: http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tools/reviews/more/2012-wood-magazine-innov8-awards/?catref=wd200&page=4
that's nice source.

[Charles McClain]

Does anyone know the release date for the Incra I-box? I thought from the thread that it was expected in January.

Thanks
Charles

[Alan Schaffter]

No firm date, but IT WILL BE out this month- here are some details- Jigs are already being assembled, finishing touches are being applied to the 45 min. instructional video, I reviewed a copy of the manual last night, it should be ready in a day or two- very professional like all the INCRA stuff, but the video will be even better. In addition to instructional demostrations of the jig and basic joints, it will include how-to's for a bunch of new box joint variations possible with the I-BOX. I am really getting excited!

Here is what the packaging art and the jig look like:

[richard poitras]

Alan, you been giving birth to that baby for some time now how many epidurals are you on now? :D

No really I am looking forward in getting one and trying it out. Do you know how the first ones will be distributed and how much it is going to be selling for?

Richard

(Alan, you should set up a group buy if it’s not in violation with the forum?)

[Alan Schaffter]

Alan, you been giving birth to that baby for some time now how many epidurals are you on now? :D

No really I am looking forward in getting one and trying it out. Do you know how the first ones will be distributed and how much it is going to be selling for?

Richard

(Alan, you should set up a group buy if it’s not in violation with the forum?)

I'm just the nervous, expectant father. The great guys at INCRA are the ones busting hump trying to get this thing out. They want to do it right which is the reason it is not already out.

I am not privy to the marketing plans. Initially it will be available on INCRA's "Incremental Tools" website. Individual dealers (and corporate?) showed a lot of interest in it at last summer's Woodcraft conference, so I assume they will eventually be available at some/all dealers and through the Woodcraft website. Selected INCRA products are also carried by many retailers (Lee Valley, Rockler, Woodpeckers, Amazon, Woodworker's Supply, Grizzly, Hartville Tool, Highland Woodworking and others) but each chooses which INCRA products they will carry. I would guess a lot depends on price point and demonstrated demand.

It will be a big load off my mind when it finally launches. But rather than relax, I can start wondering about my irons in other fires. I'm trying to avoid being a ""one trick pony." :D

Since I do have a financial stake, I want to avoid financial entanglements and want to be careful with my posts. I hope I will be allowed to continue posting about it, especially when I-BOX users start to post comments and questions, since a number of the expected I-BOX retailers are paid SMC advertisers.

[Charles McClain]

Thanks for the update Alan.

[Mark Burnette]

Is the "positioning engine" a built-in caliper (of sorts) that sets the finger spacing off the trial cut? If so--great idea! I do hope the silly bombastic name is the fault of the marketing guys :)

[Myk Rian]

I get the best box joints with my Incra jig.

[Alan Schaffter]

Not so much a caliper since there are no measurements taken, but yes it sets both the guide pin width and the spacing between the blade and guide pin exactly the same at the same time- using the width of the "set-up" or "cutter gauging" cut- I don't like to call it a test cut since you are not testing anything. But that size is what is so critical to box joints and the one most often overlooked. Everything should be set to the blade. To do it otherwise is possible, but difficult since dado blades do not cut a kerf to their advertized width- shims are often needed. No jigs on the market today automatically set the blade to guide pin spacing.

The I-BOX makes set-up incredibly simple since it is based on the blade- and it does not matter whether it is 1/4", 17/64", or 31/128" wide. You must calibrate the I-BOX before you set the guide pin spacing but that is done quickly and simply using a simple "KISS" (kiss the blade) method and the micro knob- you can leave your calipers in the drawer. This may not be in the manual (I don't know if it is the video), however when the I-BOX is used with a standard dado blade, you only need to calibrate it once (technically for the life of the blade and I-BOX), then you can set it to any and all blade widths and change widths quickly using a set-up notch. (I have done it blind-folded- with a safety observer of course!). Due to geometry and the way reversible two-blade dadoes and router bits get larger on both sides or from the center out, as opposed to a standard dado which gets wider in only one direction- away from the saw's arbor flange, you must do a quick cal between blade and bit changes when using them. When you see an I-BOX you will notice it has two sides mirror faces to take advantage of this feature on both left and right tilt saws.

Shhhh, we all liked the name selected by someone's wife.

[Alan Schaffter]

I get the best box joints with my Incra jig.

So will anyone who gets an I-BOX, it is made by INCRA! :)

[Mark Burnette]

Thanks for the explanation--it sets itself pretty much how I imagined. By "caliper" I meant that the "engine" gauges the notch width & transfers that to the jig positioning, similar to how a caliper gauges off a part & transfers that movement to a readable scale.

[richard poitras]

I sent Incra a e-mail per there site and here’s what they sent:

<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2012 9:03 PM
Subject: Ibox Incra Box Joint Jig

I have been waiting for some time now for the release of the new Ibox Incra box joint jig and was just wondering when it is going to be available and where I can get one? Can I be put on some kind of waiting list to get one? Or order one direct from you? Or possible sent an e-mail with information when they do get released to the retail sector? If so my e-mail address is ________________

Thanks
Richard

<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

Hello, Richard~

I'm sure we'll be sending an e-mail blast to all of our preferred customers and, of course, it will appear on our web site as soon as it is ready.

Thanks for your interest and anticipation...

Kind regards~

Linda
Incra Tools

<><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>

Basically not answering my question but just side stepping it politely

[Galen Nagen]

I will. I think it will be a great product. It is reasonably priced. I have fooled around with box joints and various jigs and this looks like the best to me.

GN

[Alan Schaffter]

I sent Incra an e-mail . . .

It won't do any good to bother them. Believe me they are busy. They are not a large company and the introduction of a major product like this takes a lot of resources. They don't want to make commitments when something outside their control could easily delay release- truck delivering parts falls in the river or burns up in a highway accident, cardboard packaging factory catches fire, etc. Believe me, I more than anyone can't wait for it to come out, but am willing to wait a little more.

I will be out of town later this month so if you want to be certain you will be alerted immediately when it is released, go to the Incremental Tools website and sign up for their free Preferred Customer Program- like Woodcraft, Woodpeckers, Rockler, and most WW tool vendors they send out emails with weekly specials, new arrivals, and promotional news. Thanks.

[James White]

Any update on this?

[Alan Schaffter]

I was notified last week it will be another 2 - 3 weeks. The video is taking longer than expected. The demos and tutorials must cover a lot since the I-BOX functions differently than other box joint jigs and it makes possible a number of variations on the traditional box joint. Anyone who has seen the Woodsmith Aluminum jig manual can attest it barely covers the basics and its video which was not available when the jig was initially released leaves a lot to be desired. INCRA does not want to make the same mistake.

I saw the completed label last week- they are ready to slap on the DVDs once shooting and editing are done and copies made.

Thanks for asking.

p.s. Something to remember, everyone who worked on the I-BOX is very familiar with how it operates and all its nuances, so it is important that no important details are omitted from the manual or video that seem obvious.

[James White]

Hi Alan,

I think I saw a signature line from one of our fellow Creekers that said.

"There are no short cuts to anywhere worth going" I think that may be appropriate here. I happen to think it is true. Thank you for the update.

James

[Steven Wayne]

Finally got an I-Box yesterday. Excited to get into the shop and put it through its paces today.

[Marc Rochkind]

Can't speak about any of the items mentioned, but I can say that my Leigh RTJ400 (relatively new product) is terrific. It has one feature that I think is unusual, if not unique: very easy micro adjustment of the joint tightness. Also does dovetails, of various flavors.

[Al Launier]

Tom, tomorrow, I will make a separate post about the new INCRA jig mentioned in the links in Ray's post and at Dan's link to Wood Magazine's web site (Wood selected the jig for one of their "Innov-8" awards)

It won't be out until January but I think it is well worth waiting for. It uses a mechanism totally different from any previous jig, that is incredibly easy to set, no calipers needed, works on both router table and tablesaw and is continuously variable- no need for templates, will make any size joint with tiny 1/8" up to robust 3/4" fingers and a few special finger joints as well.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/2404/medium/IBOX_Photo-1.jpg

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/2404/medium/boxes2.jpg

Have one - Well made indeed! On sale now / free shipping http://www.amazon.com/INCRA-I-BOX-Jig-Box-Joints/dp/B008LD4S5G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1441654768&sr=8-1&keywords=incra+ibox&pebp=1441654765530&perid=0W7H2WPQ6BCXC4W2FDAF

[Stan Calow]

I have the Rockler, and you really need to be careful to make slow cuts and not move anything a hair out of square.

[Larry Frank]

The IBox looks good and they make fine stuff. I have one that I made for my router table which works very well and can make 1/4", 3/8" & 1/2" box joints. It may not be as neat as the IBox but I get extra pride that I made it.

I also have the Leigh D4R with the finger joint template which makes fingers from 1/8" to 1/2". I did not make it but it really works well but $$$$$.

If I were to buy now, I would really consider the IBox.