Rip cut carcass saw versus a dovetail saw...difference??

[George Farra]

I'm starting to get interested in cutting joints by hand and am looking at a variety of new handsaws for the tasks at hand. My work generally includes dovetails and tenons.

Based on the cuts needed I am concluding that I need a saw set for crosscut and ripcut. Do I really need a dedicated dovetail saw? Isnt a dovetail set up as a ripcut, so wouldnt a rip carcass do the same job? What am I missing??

TIA

George

[Chris Griggs]

No you are not missing anything - it just comes down to personal preference. If you wanted to you could cut dovetails with a 10ppi tenon saw. A rip carcass is just larger then a DT saw and generally has a slightly coarser toothing. My dovetail saw is the 11" LN Rip Carcass - it is 15ppi so it is virtually identical to the DT saw but 1" longer and I think like 3/4" deeper. The disadvantage of a larger saw is it may be more toe heavy, so could be (but not necessarily be) a little harder to learn on. This (the rip carcass) was my 1st dovetail saw - I learned on it just fine, and in general don't like ity bity saws. I find the extra length especially helpful since I always gang two boards together when I cut my tails.

I'll add though, that at the time I bought mine (about 2 years ago) all the new DT saws on the market were 9" and below. If I were buying today I would be more likely to consider going with the LN dovetail saw or a Badaxe since they are both 10", which I find to be a great compromise between balance and longer saw stroke.

I wrote a review when I got started with my first saws comparing the LN 10ppi Rip Carcass to the LN 15ppi carcass (I got the 10ppi and exchanged it for the 15ppi). Google "carcass saw comparison" and it should come up. It's on another forum (LJs) so I can't post a link. I really didn't have much experience at the time with saws, but I think the write up gave a good beginners perspective.

[john brenton]

I would like to have different "dedicated" saws, but just havent gotten around to it. Im a hobbyist, and reeeeeally have to be able to justify my purchases. That being said, different saws means more stuff, when you might not need it if you just finessed what you had a little more. I have a fat plated, low grade Spear and Jackson that i picked up cheap to resell. Its a 15 tpi whacky multi-directional set "all purpose" carcass sized saw. I reset and refiled the teeth to a "hybrid" style and i use it for everything, dovetails, tenons, crosscuts...etc. I could see the benefit of a thinner sawplate if your style is to split the line, but if you aim to cut on one side or the other i really dont see an advantage.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

I started using my rip carcase saw for dovetails on my last project. I like it a lot better for carcase dovetails as it's a little coarser and longer, so it handles the thicker stock a little better. Also, the DT saw needs to be sharpened, and I don't have that small a file handy . . .

The one issue that arises for me with using a carcase saw for dovetails is the blade height - the slightly taller blade, makes it a lot easier for me to sense plumb - sort of like how it's easier to balance a broom with the heavy end in the air, you get a better feel for it . . . but that same weight and height makes it a little more difficult for me to maintain the proper angle when cutting tails if I don't angle the board in the vise so the cuts are plumb. A lighter saw with less blade height just feels a little better, a little more controlled to me when trying to cut at an angle, which I like because I'm too lazy to switch the board twice in the vise.

[Jack Curtis]

... I could see the benefit of a thinner sawplate if your style is to split the line, but if you aim to cut on one side or the other i really dont see an advantage.

Another advantage of a thinner kerf/sawplate is it takes less effort to saw less.

Jack

[Zach Dillinger]

Another advantage of a thinner kerf/sawplate is it takes less effort to saw less.

Jack

I really like my Thin Plate saw from LN. I'm usually a vintage tool kind of guy, but darn it all if that isn't the best saw I've ever used.

[Jack Curtis]

Zach, the only LN dovetail saw I've ever used was the straight handled version. I don't think it was particularly thin, but it sure cut really well, equal to my Japanese versions (including the Pro from LV) in speed, comfort and line. It's probably the only LN saw I'd ever buy (I don't much like the confinement of std western handles).

Jack

[Terry Beadle]

Another alternative is to use a hack saw with a 12 tpi blade for dovetailing. Cuts smooth and if not used on metal, lasts a really long time. Then you can invest in a crosscut saw only.

[Tony Shea]

Jack, you'd be surprised by the advantages of the confinement of a std western handle. I used to think alond the same lines as you until I got using some premeium western saws. It started out with a #12 Disston that a friend had all tuned up and it just cut itself, very little effort on my part. Then I started in on backsaws and have had the bug ever since. My japanese saws get the call for some of the smaller work but I do prefer the confinement of western saws you talk about.

[Chris Griggs]

Another alternative is to use a hack saw with a 12 tpi blade for dovetailing. Cuts smooth and if not used on metal, lasts a really long time. Then you can invest in a crosscut saw only.

Ok, my curiosity is going to get the best of me here - I will definitely need to try that. Plus it would just be cool to make a beautiful piece and be able to say that I did it with a hacksaw!