question on WALNUT -How do you get rid of the small grain pits ?

[Glenn Torbert]

I really enjoy turning walnut, I just finished a beautiful 11" bowl, but I have several areas that are pitting at the end grain, does anyone have a solution to this? is there a commercial product to fill the pits and still allow a even finish?

[Joe Watson]

Any chance you can post a picture ?

[David DeCristoforo]

If you are talking about the pores in the wood, there is a commercial paste wood filler that is intended for exactly that purpose like these:

http://www.homesteadfinishingproducts.com/htdocs/Pastewoodglazes.htm
(http://www.homesteadfinishingproducts.com/htdocs/Pastewoodglazes.htm)
They can be purchased pre-tinted or neutral which can be tinted in a number of different ways.

[Scott Hackler]

I have heard of folks wet sanding with BLO or even Shellac. The "slurry" will fill the pits and then allow it to dry. When you sand it again you will smooth out the finish for any further finishing with poly or lacquer, ect.

[robert baccus]

Mohawk makes a heavy bodied sanding sealer that will do quick work of pores. apply it straight with a rag or brush and sand down until some shows and then spray a thin coat to cover sand-throughs. then finish with laquer or whatever but not any of the oils. ------------old forester

[Curt Fuller]

Most people will read this and think I'm full of ****. But the best trick I've seen for filling the pores in walnut is to put some drywall mud on a damp paper towel and use it for the final sanding. It will fill the pores and then when it dries just wipe off the whitish film with a dry paper towel and apply your finish. The mud will essentially be clear when the finish hits it but will work as a filler for the pores. It works on any wood as a sanding agent but it's pretty cool what it does to make walnut shine.

[Jim Burr]

I'm on crack..I know, but I kinda like the pores to show on certain peices...adds texture as opposed to plastic. Just my .29 cents worth;)

[Bernie Weishapl]

On open pore woods like walnut I wet sand using Antique oil or whatever finish I am going to use with 220 and 320 grit paper. When it has dried for 24 hrs I sand with 320 and 400. The slurry fills the pores and give you a smooth surface. Then finish your piece.

[Russell Neyman]

A mixture of clear shellac and fine walnut sanding dust. You'll never notice it.

[David DeCristoforo]

"Most people will read this and think I'm full of ****. But the best trick...is...drywall mud..."

Actually, you are not full of **** at all. Plaster of Paris was used in this manner for ages (and still is in some circles) and drywall mud is very similar. It can be colored with universal tints...

[Prashun Patel]

On turned pieces, it's easy to fill the grain by wetsanding with yr finish with 220 or 320. Beware of using pore fillers, drywall mud, or pumice. You can fill with those, but in my experience it can sometimes be tricky to buff all of it off, which can have consequences for the clarity/color of your topcoat.

[David DeCristoforo]

One thing to keep in mind is that whatever you use as a pore filler, it needs to be thinned a lot. Paste fillers are thinned to an almost liquid consistency. Otherwise, the material will not pack the pores but simply remain on the surface. Any material on the surface should be sanded away leaving only the material in the pores before any finish is applied.

[Jim Underwood]

I hear that white diamond buffing wax fills up those pores pretty well... :D

Course you may not want them to look all white like that...:rolleyes:

[Curt Fuller]

I'm on crack..I know, but I kinda like the pores to show on certain peices...adds texture as opposed to plastic. Just my .29 cents worth;)

Me too........except I'm not on crack;).