Help with handrail in Columbus Ohio (shaping, buying, and finishing)

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Out of no where, my Father came down with shingles (the disease) in his ear and it caused hearing loss and loss of balance. He now requires two handrails to make it up and down stairs. I have only one handrail at my house, so I will install a second handrail.

A 9' 6" handrail would be about perfect, but if I found a 10' totally finished handrail, it would work. To match the existing hand rail, I would choose it to be a style 6010 (see http://www.stairpartsusa.com/product_p/6010%20handrail-ro.htm) in red oak.

The ends on my existing hand rail are profiled similarly to the sides. Specifically, the end is rounded rather than cut flat, and the bead near the base runs around the ends as well. I own two routers, but it looks like it would be difficult to shape this well. I am not an expert in such things. I assume that this is usually done on a shaper. I own a router, but not a shaper.

Any ideas on a place where I can either purchase the hand rail shaped on the ends, anyone in the area that can do this for me, or some way I can do this myself? If the best bet for this is for me to simply use a file, I may do that, or, I may just leave the ends flat.

I am not really sure where to buy this. I provided a link above, and I can order from there. If there was someone in my area that can simply shape one for me, I could do that as well.

Any thoughts on how I should finish a handrail? I don't have a good handle on what is usually used on hand rails. They will see a lot of "touching" and similar. If I do the finishing myself, I must use a finish that is appropriate for finishing in my basement.

I am a bit torn on just hiring someone to do it so that it will be finished, doing it myself (because it would be fun, I could say I did it, etc), or some combination in between.

I would really benefit from some advice.

[Dave Zellers]

The ends on my existing hand rail are profiled similarly to the sides. Specifically, the end is rounded rather than cut flat, and the bead near the base runs around the ends as well.
This is the proper way to finish the end of a handrail, but it needs to be done by hand. It's not as difficult as it might seem. It requires a coping saw, sharp chisel, file, sandpaper and patience.

Cut a short piece (1/4" is enough) off the end, turn it 90º, align it with the bottom at the end of the rail and trace the profile on to the side of the rail. Now you cut that profile onto the end of the rail. I've done a dozen or so and can do an end in about an hour. Don't rush it- if you take off more than you should, you have to start over. Sneak up on it.

[Bruce Wrenn]

That looks pretty much like a "stock profile" which both Lowes and HD carry. Current code requires a return on each end. That means rail turns and meets wall. This is a simple miter saw cut, with a couple of recessed screws to reinforce the joint. Might want to add a loose tennon, as joint is end grain to end grain. You could use a couple of biscutts. Sorry to hear about your dad getting shingles. As a side note, have you ever read the warning on the shingles shot? You have to be sixty, not nursing, not pregnant, or planning on becoming pregnant. Exactly how many +60's do you know that fit into this criteria?

[Andrew Pitonyak]

Oh, looks like I can purchase end caps and then simply glue them in place (see http://www.stairparts.net/2/2255_Returned-End-for-6010-Handrail.html). Is glue sufficient to hold them in place?

[Andrew Pitonyak]

OK, so I can either simply cut the ends or attach an already profiled end using using a loose tenon. I own a nice coping saw. I am not the greatest at sharpening, but my chisels should be sufficiently sharp for this.

[Richard Wolf]

The end caps are the way you should go. Rail fittings, which is what they are, are connected in many different ways. The most common is with a rail bolt, normally supplied with the fitting. You can also use a dowel and glue because these end caps will not have much force applied to them. Minwax ploy is a great finish for handrails. You should use about four wall brackets secured to studs.

[Dave Lehnert]

Should find what you need at Home Depot.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Search?keyword=oak+hand+rail&langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

[John TenEyck]

It looks like the same company will clear coat them for $3/ft. Kinda steep, but it's done. If the end caps come finished as well, you'd be all set.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

As a side note, have you ever read the warning on the shingles shot? You have to be sixty, not nursing, not pregnant, or planning on becoming pregnant. Exactly how many +60's do you know that fit into this criteria?

I cannot even imagine.

Turning to meet the wall strikes me as trivial to do. Would be easier with a chop saw, but I should be able to do that free hand and then clean it up with a hand plane. Well, perhaps not a hand plane, that is pretty thick, but, I still should be able to clean it up well enough. I assume that I am not required to then attach the end turning into the wall to the wall and that I do not need to round-over the end joint, so I will still have a sharp corner on which to hit one's head (where the 45s meet).

[Andrew Pitonyak]

It looks like the same company will clear coat them for $3/ft. Kinda steep, but it's done. If the end caps come finished as well, you'd be all set.
I had not noticed that they would clear coat. You are correct that $3 a foot is a bit steep. The advantage is that it would then be done, however (and I could quickly install them). I will check their prices and see if I can verify delivery cost and compare that to hitting up Lowes or Menards. I suppose I also need to verify that I can get that into my vehicle. I think that I can.

I will have to ask my wife is she prefers a clear coat or a stain. If they do it, it will be done faster and be done. Hmm.

I appreciate all the help.

[John A langley]

If you have 10' of hand rail, that's $30 to finish it. So you spend $10 on material and by the time you put two coats on and clean your brush out twice, and of course sanding it in between and wiping it down in between. I don't know how fast your wife works. I bet she's working for $10 per hour. The price sounds reasonable to me.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I cannot even imagine.

Turning to meet the wall strikes me as trivial to do. Would be easier with a chop saw, but I should be able to do that free hand and then clean it up with a hand plane. Well, perhaps not a hand plane, that is pretty thick, but, I still should be able to clean it up well enough. I assume that I am not required to then attach the end turning into the wall to the wall and that I do not need to round-over the end joint, so I will still have a sharp corner on which to hit one's head (where the 45s meet).Instead of a couple 45's, do the return as three pieces (22 1/2)