Can't sharpen cabinet scraper

[john bateman]

I have one of these BAHCO scrapers: http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2000259/568/Cabinet-Scraper-5-Long-60-mm-Thick.aspx

and one of these Crown burnishers: http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2000262/8666/CROWN-Burnisher-Scraper-Round.aspx

When I draw the burnisher along the edge of the scraper, instead of rolling over a burr on the scraper, it just makes gouges in the burnisher.
It seems to me the scraper is harder metal than the burnisher.

The burnisher gets good reviews at the Woodcraft site, so I'm at a loss to what I may be doing wrong.

[David Weaver]

I have the same one. Down by the ferrule, it's not very hard (which is where it'd be nice if it was). Mine is a little better further up, but down by the ferrule, I have done as you've described - put serious nicks in it trying to burnish a card scraper that really isn't that hard.

A 2 cherries triangular burnisher is completely unaffected by the same card scraper.

I still use the round burnisher, though, don't like the triangular, I just use the middle of the rod.

[McKay Sleight]

I have used both the triangle and round burnishers but I actually have not cared for either one. A friend of mine made me a burnisher from solid carbide. That thing is awesome!!! Used up-cut spirals are a good source. I use the old round burnisher for closing miters on corners of trim and A&C legs so it is still useful.

[Jim Neeley]

This sounds like one of those:

"The fuse in the electric circuit was protected by the circuit blowing up first!" :p

[glenn bradley]

I don't see any mention of the oil you are using to prevent galling. Some folks use 3-in-1, some use ATF, I use router bearing oil, air tool oil or whatever is handy. It doesn't take much but I do see some folks really lather it on(?). The Crown is HSS and 'should' be hard enough but, a shop made one I have made from an old Forstner bit shaft has galled on me when I am too lazy to take 3 steps and get a drop of oil. I know the Lee Valley is Rockwell 58-60 and they offer a carbide one as well although it is quite short. The Hock burnishers are Rc-64!!!

[george wilson]

Grind the teeth off a triangular file and polish it. You can buy carbide rod,though it is expensive. You need to get one of reasonable diameter,as carbide is very brittle. The burnisher doesn't have to be real long. 2" is enough,so a 1/4" dia.,4" long piece would make a good burnisher(with 2" stuck in the handle.) I know MSC sells it,Maybe Enco.

Oil? Wipe the burnisher across your forehead. That's usually handy.

Have you heard of the practice of rubbing NOSE OIL on your fly rod ferrules when assembling? That seems to be the thing to do if you are an avid trout fisherman.

[James Taglienti]

I heard LN sells nose oil now. Its supposed to work great on salad bowls too

[Steve Branam]

I have an old Sandvik scraper (now Bahco) that put very nice scoring into a 2 cherries rounded burnisher. Then I got a Hock burnisher from Woodcraft. That works great. I didn't use oil with either one.

[Chris Griggs]

I've got one of those inexpensive short carbide burnishers from Lee Valley on the way this week. I think it will work better than the router bit, with a wine cork for a handle I've been using.

213407

BTW, wasn't clear from your original post, but did you prepare the the scraper edges - (e.g. joint and polish). I'm still getting the hang of scrapers too, but making sure you do a good job honing the "cutting edge" before turning a burr is essential.

[Dominic Greco]

Enco has solid 1/4" dia x 2" long carbide rod for $6.74 (Model #325-2395)

Solid Carbide Rods Diameter: 0.2500 In., 1/4 Overall Length: 2 Material: Solid Carbide (http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PARTPG=INSRAR2&PMAKA=325-2395&PMPXNO=5809268)

I've made a burnisher with this rod and used it on scrapers I've made from 1095 Spring Steel. Since this spring steel has a hardness of 48 to 52 Rc, this is one of the few burnishers out there that seem to work well on it. I mean, other than a Hock burnisher.

And as far as oiling it, "Nose oil" certainly does work. :D :D But I've also use mineral oil. I made a down and dirty applicator from a plastic bottle that has a nozzle with a sponge affixed to it. (I found it at work in the dumpster but they sell them at McMaster Carr. I'm not saying you need one. But if you can find one, it's useful.) I just drag the burnisher across the top of the sponge before I start on the scraper and it seems to work just fine.

[David Weaver]

I don't see any mention of the oil you are using to prevent galling.

Mine got chewed up while using mineral oil, which is no problem on the part of the burnisher that is properly hardened. I have used the nose and forehead oil with no problem, too.

[Bill White]

When ya get tired of spending big bucks for a burnisher, go to your local mechanic and ask for a wrist pin from an engine re-build. That's what I used. $00.0000 and no tax.
Bill

[geoff wood]

i have the same scraper and same burnisher. i can get absolutely vicious shavings with it. i only take one little swipe with the burnisher, after filing, thats all it takes. people tend to overthink burnishing-there is almost no art to it at all, just simply dragging a piece of metal.

[john bateman]

The burnisher was much more effective out beyond it's midway point, which doesn't make much sense to me. You would think it was just a hardened steel rod embedded in a wood handle.
But it's more like they hardened it after the handle was put on, as if someone held the handle and stuck it in a fire:)

[john brenton]

I also use oil, but from my earlobe. Not sure why the earlobe, just that it what was recommended in a book or a website.

Crown tools are so deceptive. I bought a marking gauge years ago and I thoughtI was buying a top quality tool. It's English, it's beautiful rosewood, etc.. Then I got it home and it looked like the mortise was cut by someone as crummy at woodworking as I am. I sent it back, and they sent me one with a better mortise, but the pins were out of alignment. I didn't send it back again...I should have.


Grind the teeth off a triangular file and polish it. You can buy carbide rod,though it is expensive. You need to get one of reasonable diameter,as carbide is very brittle. The burnisher doesn't have to be real long. 2" is enough,so a 1/4" dia.,4" long piece would make a good burnisher(with 2" stuck in the handle.) I know MSC sells it,Maybe Enco.

Oil? Wipe the burnisher across your forehead. That's usually handy.

Have you heard of the practice of rubbing NOSE OIL on your fly rod ferrules when assembling? That seems to be the thing to do if you are an avid trout fisherman.

[Mark Baldwin III]

I've been happy with the Pfeil oval burnisher, also available at WC. There's some scratches from use on it, but you can't feel them when you run your finger tips on it. My scrapers may not be as hard as the Bahco, though. The only thing I don't like about the Pfeil is that the handle is somewhat rough. I gave mine a light sanding with 400 grit, then my favorite tool finish: oil, shellac, and wax. Now it feels quite good.

[Jim Matthews]

Two things are important, and I overlooked them for a year.
Mike Pekovich reminded me of these at an open house event, over in Connecticut.

1) You've got to file down the work hardened end of the steel, and hone it on a fine stone.

2) It doesn't take much pressure to "lift" the edge you will turn over when burnishing.
It's about the same force required to spread peanut butter on dry toast.

I was attempting to roll an edge before the filing step, and had the same poor results - my burnisher would just skid across the steel.
This video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OKZWqdPFul8) is an indication of the preparation time required, before using the burnisher.


The burnisher doesn't appear until 2:45, and this guy is FAST.

[steven c newman]

My card scraper is just a piece of freshly cut glass. That way I can match any profile I need.

[Dan Carroll]

I picked up a Hock burnisher rod from 'Tools for working wood" and made my own handle with a brass plumbing fitting for a ferrule. Turned the handle on my lathe out of some scrap maple. Less than $15.00 invested in the whole toy and a first rate piece of steel to do the job.

[Steve Branam]

Yes! This video was the one that finally got me able to sharpen my scraper last year. One of the really key things is that you just take ONE stroke with the burnisher. That's it! It really works (I just ran down to the basement to follow his instructions precisely again). Over-rolling the edge seems to be the number one mistake we all make.

Interesting point about getting down past the work-hardened edge, I hadn't thought of that.

[Justin Chen]

I haven't used the scraper much but this video impressed me about sharpening card scrapers. After seeing this I will be using the scraper a lot more.

William Ng:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nz6EpQu2HRo