A question about heating the turning studio

[Roger Chandler]

I have a question about wood stoves and heating the turning studio [a.k.a. "shop"] .......In the interest of safety, I was thinking that a wood stove that uses outside air for the combustion chamber would be better than a regular wood stove, because there would be no issues of igniting dust [like when sanding]

In a small shop that seems at least in theory to make sense to me. My only question is what is this type of venting called .......direct vent, or something else? I need to know what I am looking for in order to do some research.

[John Keeton]

Roger, this one probably would get a much better response in the Workshop Forum - you want me to move it?

[Roger Chandler]

Roger, this one probably would get a much better response in the Workshop Forum - you want me to move it?

Go ahead John.........just thought some of our guys might know the answer.

[Harry Robinette]

Roger
When I was in New Mexico I used a very,very cheap wood burner from Harbor Freight. I put a piece of sheet metal behind it bent in a U shape and a small 6" fan blowing the heat against the sheet metal and then out into the shop. I never had any problem with dust and heated the shop very well.
If there's any thing I can help with PM me.

[dan carter]

I've used a wood stove for many years in my shops with no adverse surprises from dust, etc. But, before I turn on my overhead propane furnace, I take precautions and blow out the dust several times a year. Dust does build up on my infra red overhead, but blowing off the dust also keeps it under control and safe. I can't see the need for the outside air unit for your wood stove, of course you know your environment better than anyone else. If you are using a dust collector during your sanding, and keeping your shop/turning studio reasonably clean, I would suggest you would be alright to use a traditional wood stove. I can't imagine my not having and using a wood stove in my shop.

[Kevin W Johnson]

This is the time of year that I'm glad my shop is only 12x20. It's insulated, with walls and ceiling covered in OSB. I use a small electric radiator to keep the shop a decent 55F or so, (have a fridge that needs atleast 52F to operate properly), and supplement with a propane heater to bring the shop to a comfortable 70ish.

[neil mackay]

I have a design of Oil barrel stove that runs on sawdust etc. Depending on the dampness etc of the saw dust its capable of running for 6-8hrs on a single fill. Heating and getting rid of the waste from the lathe all in one hit

[joel nucifore]

Roger,
Building mine now, looking at a window pellet stove...
neighbor just picked one up for his house and heats his upstairs with it.
Spec to do 750 sq' ----2 weeks ago sold for $1100 went to lumber store yesterday now $1400.00 sales man says can not keep them in the store....

[Ian Jeffcock]

Roger,
I have a Blaze King in my basement shop. It heats the whole house. I cant imagine doing w/o it. I tried a pellet stove years ago, but didn't see any savings over other fuels. As far as the dust, I wish it would suck up more :). If you do decide to go with the pellets, look at the small pellet mills that are available. I have been looking for someone that has used them, to see how they like them. They look like an interesting addition for a wood turners shop. You could make pellets all year with your shavings and have them bagged and ready for winter use.

[Michelle Rich]

Hi Roger: My concern here is the size of your shop. If i remember correctly, it's pretty small. Woodstoves need clearance in all 4 directions. You will have to use up a large area , in a small shop, to use such a heating set-up. plus of course the pipe needs to be a long way from stuff too. The other little thing is that wood heats up and stays up..you will roast or freeze. Outside air/inside air, I doubt it makes a hill of beans difference. I've never had an outside air run stove..so I won't tell you my opinion is cast in stone. The cost too would be big up front, plus installation of insulated pipe thru your roof, plus another hole for the air intake. If I lived in Virginia ( & I have) it does not get cold there, and I'd go with a small propane? type wall unit I could turn on & turn off..your shop small enuf to heat quickly. IMHO And this was worth what you paid for it!! :-) :-)

[Doug Herzberg]

Woodstoves need clearance in all 4 directions. You will have to use up a large area , in a small shop, to use such a heating set-up. plus of course the pipe needs to be a long way from stuff too.

+1 on the clearance - it takes a lot of space.

+1 on the cheap HF stove, but I spent more on my chimney than the stove - not a place to cut corners. The stove is a Vogelzang (sp?), made in America, I think, and it's on sale now under $200. My shop is 25 x 25 and it's not enough on a cold day (below 0 F). I'm working on ceiling insulation now. I have a window right over the lathe which I leave open a crack for combustion air. My DC is right next to the stove + 3 feet, no problems with dust igniting (yet).

[Matt Hutchinson]

I don't know much about woodburning stoves, but like others have said, in a small shop their footprint can be difficult to work around. That's why I didn't go with one. For the last couple years I have been using an electric heater, and with good insulation it can heat my 400 sq. ft. shop to around 55 degrees within an hour. Within 2 hours it's too warm, and I have a lot of icy cast iron. If you have 220v run, it might be worth looking into. Granted, it's more expensive than wood heat over the long haul, but it's got a tiny footprint.

http://www.amazon.com/Dimplex-DGWH4031-4000-Watt-Garage-Workshop/dp/B00064NURU

(http://www.amazon.com/Dimplex-DGWH4031-4000-Watt-Garage-Workshop/dp/B00064NURU)- Hutch

[Kevin W Johnson]

Hi Roger: My concern here is the size of your shop. If i remember correctly, it's pretty small. Woodstoves need clearance in all 4 directions. You will have to use up a large area , in a small shop, to use such a heating set-up. plus of course the pipe needs to be a long way from stuff too. The other little thing is that wood heats up and stays up..you will roast or freeze. Outside air/inside air, I doubt it makes a hill of beans difference. I've never had an outside air run stove..so I won't tell you my opinion is cast in stone. The cost too would be big up front, plus installation of insulated pipe thru your roof, plus another hole for the air intake. If I lived in Virginia ( & I have) it does not get cold there, and I'd go with a small propane? type wall unit I could turn on & turn off..your shop small enuf to heat quickly. IMHO And this was worth what you paid for it!! :-) :-)

Not sure where you lived in VA, but it does get cold here in our part of the state.

As for Roger's dilemma, propane is good as a secondary heat, but probably not a primary source. Detached shops, really need to be heated to a minimum temp 24/7. The problem with only heating when in the shop is condensation. When you walk in the 30 degree shop and fire up the heat, all your tools sweat.

[Ronald Campbell]

My shop is currently under construction and I am looking at a pellet stove. The stove is a window unit but I will install it in the wall. It will heat up to 750 sq ft. It is almost zero clearance, vents outdoors without running pipe and burns outside air only. Fuel consumption is very low. Plugs into a regular 110 outlet. Will cost around $ 1400. Will buy mine this week, dealer just got them in.
Ron

[Roger Chandler]

Not sure where you lived in VA, but it does get cold here in our part of the state.

As for Roger's dilemma, propane is good as a secondary heat, but probably not a primary source. Detached shops, really need to be heated to a minimum temp 24/7. The problem with only heating when in the shop is condensation. When you walk in the 30 degree shop and fire up the heat, all your tools sweat.

Kevin,

We are probably about 20 miles apart.........I heat with a Kerosene heater, when real cold...not good ......puts off condensation on tools ...........I have to really watch my table saw and jointer surfaces and lathe ways. I just installed an overhead infared quartz heater, and am pleased with that............

That being said, I was just wondering if a wood stove [a very small one] might be an option............I know that clearance is an issue but there are ways to overcome that with the proper shielding of the framing and double wall vents, etc........I

Unfortunately, the present configuration of my 14x20' shop building is not conducive to insulation.............I may have to do something with rigid insulation at some point, but not this season.

[Kevin W Johnson]

Kevin,

We are probably about 20 miles apart.........I heat with a Kerosene heater, when real cold...not good ......puts off condensation on tools ...........I have to really watch my table saw and jointer surfaces and lathe ways. I just installed an overhead infared quartz heater, and am pleased with that............

That being said, I was just wondering if a wood stove [a very small one] might be an option............I know that clearance is an issue but there are ways to overcome that with the proper shielding of the framing and double wall vents, etc........I

Unfortunately, the present configuration of my 14x20' shop building is not conducive to insulation.............I may have to do something with rigid insulation at some point, but not this season.

Yeah, I know you've been fighting the cold weather months. A small woodstove should be do-able with proper heat shielding and is probably the best bet for an uninsulated shop. That's what protects Fred's wall in his shop.

You coming to the Dec CVW meeting?

[Roger Chandler]

You coming to the Dec CVW meeting?

If nothing interferes..........I was coming last Tuesday, but did not get my wife out of the Doctors office in time over at Augusta Medical Center in time to make the turnaround and get back to Crimora.......

[Kevin W Johnson]

If nothing interferes..........I was coming last Tuesday, but did not get my wife out of the Doctors office in time over at Augusta Medical Center in time to make the turnaround and get back to Crimora.......

Well, hope to see you there. And if you want a shop visitor sometime, let me know. I think us small shop keepers can learn organizational ideas from each other.

[Roger Chandler]

Well, hope to see you there. And if you want a shop visitor sometime, let me know. I think us small shop keepers can learn organizational ideas from each other.

We can talk about a "creeker" visit at the next meeting!

[robert baccus]

I heat a 16x24 shop with an old timey cast iron wood stove. it is uninsulated and fresh air is not a problem. dust is a hazard but is minor compared to finishing and spraying issues. spray lacquer or any finish is highly explosive when in an closed enviorment. one secret to heating a shop is to point a small fan toward the ceiling and flue pipe to stir the warm air.--------------old forester

[Mike Cruz]

Roger, not sure anyone has directly answered your question yet. It is something that I have wondered for YEARS. Why do we burn the air from inside the house that we are heating? The air intake SHOULD be from outside air. By burning air that is inside the house (already warm air) you are forcing cold outside arir into your home!

The other thing to consider is that a woodstove in a shop means that you have to have clearance around it in order to not catch anything on fire...a challenge in a small shop for sure. And yours is quite packed. Best of luck with whatever you end up using to keep your fingers and tootsies warm. :D

[Jim Laumann]

I am heating my 30x40x12 shop w/ a wood burner. It is located in a corner - 18" from the walls - which are pole shed steel - these are covered w/ cement board. The ribs of the steel allow air flow behind the cement board. The burner has a thermostat controlled fan, in addition, I have a small fan across the room which I use help circulate the air (until I can get a ceiling fan installed). The burner is 30" off the floor (wood framed stand w/ cement board cover/top).

Last year I got a late start w/ heating the building, as the building was unheated (under construction) until mid Dec - this year I've started heating much sooner, am attempting to get the the floor / contents warmed up and act as a heat sink - so far it seems to be working, in that when I open the big door, the heat level doesn't seem to flucuate as much - but it's still early, so time will tell. Dust hasn't been a issue so far.

Jim