What tools do you use ?

[Joe Watson]

Out side of the different gouges and chisels, what else do you use ?

Band saw - cutting blanks
Screw gun - face plates
Calipers, spring loaded and dial - checking wall/bottom thickness and spindle dia, checking dowel thickness and tenons along with setting the spring loaded calipers
Chain saw - cutting logs
Pencil - for this and that
Table saw - cutting segments
Drill Press - use it like an arbor press to clamp stacked segment glue-ups, use a bungee cord to hold the quill down.

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[David E Keller]

Drill for power sandingDust collector and air filterFace shield!!!!

[Thom Sturgill]

Angle drill - sanding
Compressor - clean up, blow shavings out of HF
Vacuum system - chucking
Allen wrenches - myriad adjustments

You can do some glue ups on the lathe using the tail stock for pressure after you have mounted the base to a faceplate and trued up a ring - just use a board as a caul.

Rubber bands - glue pairs of segments while assembling a ring
Large 12-20" disk sander to true up segments prior to glueing
chain saw - rough cut blanks

I'm sure others will chime in with more...

[Dan Forman]

I use a handplane at times to smooth the face of a bowl blank if the face is too convex. It really cuts down on the wobble of such blanks, making them easier to true up on the lathe.

Files or sandpaper blocks to some spindle work.

Files for sharpening chain saw.

Compas for marking where to place faceplate on a round blank. I set it just a hair over the size of the faceplate.



Dan

Dan

[Noah Barfield]

A center-finder, a close-quarters drill with 3" sanding pad, an awl, a cordless drill, bench grinder, miter saw (to cut pen blank ends accurately), chisels (for removing any nubbins). I also use a C-clamp to hold my dust hood onto my tool rest stand.

Noah

[Scott Hussey]

In addition to what's been listed here are mine -

Sandpaper...lots of 80 grit to hide my tool marks!

Bore light for a rifle - so I can see inside my hollow forms - works great!

Spring Loaded Punch for making center of blanks.

Lights - lots of lights to see my sanding scratches

Broom/vacuum to get up all the shavings

Mitre Saw to cut segments

Clamps to put pressure on segmented glue ups

That's about all that I can add...seems like there should be more, but I can't think of any right now.

Scott

[Scott Hackler]

All the above and I use my table saw as a workbench and finishing bench. Got to use it for something!Assorted piercing, carving and sanding tools. Just started experimenting with a sandblasting cabinet too.

[Bernie Weishapl]

All of the above plus a woodburner, air brush, and dyes.

[robert baccus]

all of the above plus 3 air powered die grinders with 2&3" sanding pads. also forster bits with 12" extensions for pilot holes in vases and big bowls. also i use thetailstock with a cone to center and press glueblocks and faceplates. Most importantly i have a wall fan mounted 18" behind the lathe to deshop dust and laquer fumes.-------------------old forester

[Reed Gray]

Never use a face plate any more except when I turn a bowl over 20 or so inches, which is almost never. I use the drill press for making a recess, and expand into that. Chuck never comes off the lathe. Drill press with depth stop, and forstner bits can level off the top of a bowl blank. I have used the D shaped Ellsworth bent wire calipers for ever. Also make smaller ones for spindles like rolling pin handle sizes. Stretch plastic film for the rims of my bowls, and if I want to glue up a crack, it works better than any clamp, and to put around the edges of a blank that is fresh cut, but that I may not get to for a few days.

robo hippy

[Joe Watson]

Never use a face plate any more.... I use the drill press for making a recess, and expand into that... Drill press with depth stop, and forstner bits can level off the top of a bowl blank...
Thanks for mentioning that... think im gonna pick up a 3-1/2 forstner bit and give it a shot.

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[Reed Gray]

My big Vicmark uses a 2 5/8 inch Forstner bit. I do tend to drill deeper than my tooled recess on the bottom, usually going at least 1/4 inch deep. Small Vic uses about 1 5/8 inch. 3 1/2 inch is a lot of bit. Not good to use on small pieces as the bit can dig in and spin the blank. That gets pretty exciting. Keep the bit sharp, when they get dull, they tend to drift and you don't get as good of a grip. Use the tailstock.

robo hippy

[robert baccus]

Think hard before you use an expanding chuck to hold a piece of green wood.------------old forester

[Jon McElwain]

Truck to haul wood. Computer with AutoCAD to look at different profiles for a turning. Random orbit sander (Festool RO150FEQ) or sanding outside of large bowls. Air Compressor to blow chips/shavings out of a HF. Foredom TX flex shaft carving tool. Books and videos - now how did they turn that??? The Creek - best tool I've got after the actual lathe!! Child labor - my kids get paid to sweep!

[Joe Watson]

... The Creek - best tool I've got after the actual lathe!!....
So true, so true !

[charlie knighton]

maul and wedges, skill saw, chainsaw, Lancelot, rasps, dremel, am sure i am leaving something out

[Thomas Canfield]

Heavy duty 1/2" corded drill and 2 3/4" Forstner bit to get flat spot for worm screw in chuck or 2 1/2" faceplate.

Chisel and mallet to remove bark and dirt, also cheap air chisel from Harbor Freight works well.

Hatchet or recip saw to trip the oversize blanks mounted to get clear swing.