Re-sawing on the table saw

[Erin Stringer]

I know that it isn't the recommended way to resaw but I don't have a bandsaw and need some thin boards. I am using 6/4 cherry that is 7 3/8" wide. I have 3" cut into both sides using table saw and am now left with the 1" in the center. I was planning to cut this with a hand saw but it is taking a lot longer than I expected.

Anyone have any other suggestions? (besides a nice big bandsaw)

thanks in advance

Erin

[Mike Vermeil]

Have your hand saw sharpened! And make sure it's a ripping saw. If it doesn't have big enough gullets between the teeth, you'll be cutting forever.

[Jim Becker]

Mike's right and actually, this way is a bit safer since you don't have the wood parting ways while on the TS. Run them through on the power machine and then finish up with the hand saw and your planer.

[Jamie Buxton]

Instead of sharpening your existing handsaw, this might be the occasion to acquire a Japanese-style pull saw. Because you're pulling it straight when you cut, it can have a thinner blade than a Western-style saw, where your cutting force is trying to crumple the blade. A thinner blade means a thinner kerf, which means less work.

[Walt Pater]

There's always a sawzall and a nice long blade. So shoot me for suggesting that you put your sawzall on cherry, but it's worked for me when digging out an old doug fir 8x8. Hey, you're gonna plane it anyway.

[chris toomey]

i agreee with walt. use a reciprocating saw and clean up with the planer.

[Erin Stringer]

I actually went to the BORG tonight looking for a nice long jigsaw blade but the longest one was only 4.5" so I will give the handsaw another try tomorrow. I saw the sawzall blades that were nice and long but couldn't justify buying a sawzall for this task (I am working on getting the bandsaw before a sawzall).

I will have to check my handsaw and make sure it is a ripping saw. It may be time for another trip to get a different saw. Any suggestions? I have seen the Japanese saws in the past but wasn't sure that one would be good for a larger scale cut.

Thanks again, keep the suggestions coming.

Erin

[Jamie Buxton]

It may be time for another trip to get a different saw. Any suggestions?

Erin

I like the Shark line of saws. They combine Japanese-style pull teeth with a Western-style pistol grip. For me, the pistol-grip is more comfortable than cocking my wrist to use the traditional Japanese straight handle. www.sharkcorp.com, or amazon.com, or Sears, or many other retailers.

[Doug Shepard]

I'm siding with Jamie. The two quickest saws I've tried for cutting through the middle section were a frame/bow-saw type and a Sharksaw. Of the two, I think the Sharksaw worked a little bit better. I probably tried 4-5 different types of saws the few times I had to do what you're doing and both were better than using standard handsaws. I looked on the link that Jamie posted but don't see the model I have. I haven't tried the pistol grips. Mine is a 2-sided blade with different TPI's and a straight plastic handle. No matter which saw you get, elbow grease and time will be integral parts of the process.

[Bob Smalser]

1" thick?

Got a thin kerf TS blade?

Got a zero-clearance insert...if not, then make one.

Why do you think you have to resaw it by hand?

[Jim Becker]

Bob, that 1" is in the middle of the 7" wide board and the saw blade cannot reach it. He needs to complete the cut with a hand saw.

[Dave Brandt]

I'm with the sharks. I have had a Stanley Short-Cut saw for years and it's the fastest cut by hand possible. They come in rip and cross-cut versions, so make sure you get the rip version. Probably the best bang per buck you'll ever find.

[Wes Newman]

You could go with the HF Recip Saw (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=4095). I'm sure it will work in a pinch.

[Bob Smalser]

Bob, that 1" is in the middle of the 7" wide board and the saw blade cannot reach it. He needs to complete the cut with a hand saw.

Aha. A web remaining. No problem.

http://images.amazon.com/images/P/B0000224U3.01._SCMZZZZZZZ_.gif

As others have said, much as I adore my old Disston 12's and all the bowsaws I've made over the decades.....nothing beats this combined rip/crosscut saw for flushcutting woven siding corners, excess tenon or post, beveling boat false bottoms, or ripping out your 1" web rapidly.

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0000224U3/qid=1110126937/sr=1-3/ref=sr_1_3_etk-tools/002-8615348-0660808?v=glance&s=hi&n=228013

One inch is a little thick for this....but I'm not above pounding a froe or prybar in the kerf and busting/splitting out those webs when I can. The jointer and planer clean up the mess easily enuf.

[Doug Shepard]

Bob's pic is the same one I have. Works great.

[Erin Stringer]

Well, I got the job done this afternoon with my trusty old handsaw. It wasn't as bad once I put the board in the vice to steady it. I was not thinking too clearly yesterday when I tried to hold with one hand and saw with the other...

That said. The Sharks look like nice saws. I will definitely have to pick one up soon. Does anyone out there have more than one? They seem to have quite a few different styles for specific jobs. At this point I will probably start with the all purpose model and expand as needed.

Thanks for the help.

Erin

[Doug Shepard]

.. Does anyone out there have more than one? ...

Other than the double-sided one, the only other one I have is a small 9" fine tooth version that's nice for small trim and inlay cuts. If need be, it can do duty as a flush cut saw as it's pretty flexible, but doesn't have the one-sided tooth set, so you just have to protect the face of whatever you're cutting.

[Joe Scarfo]

You need to get to know a few more of your local woodworkers. I've met a number of the guys locally and we often share tools. It allows us to reduce our tool investments yet have access to great tools to enjoy the hobby more...

Tks
Joe in Valrico... The nearest suburb of anysize is Tampa