Segmented turning: Bandsaw or tablesaw?

[Dan Hintz]

As I refine the type of work I'd like to concentrate on, I lean heavily towards segmented hollow forms. My question to the powers that be is simple enough... is the ol' bandsaw easy enough to use for cutting the random segments with varying angles, or is a tablesaw a better choice? I have a cheapy Craftsman contractor's saw that has never been out of the box, and I suppose with a good thin-kerf blade it is useable, but I'd prefer not to lose the workspace required to set it up. If I can get away with using the bandsaw, I intend to purchase a higher accuracy miter gauge.

[John Beaver]

Dan,
While it is possible, I really don't recommend a bandsaw for segmenting. The drift and flex of the blade c
If you build a nice sled, the Craftsman saw would be a much better solution.

[Robert McGowen]

I have both a table saw and a bandsaw and I never use the bandsaw when segmenting.

[Curt Fuller]

In order to cut the segments with any kind of accuracy you need to first cut your wood into strips that are uniform. That's quite a bit easier with a table saw although you can cut them on a bandsaw. But for that reason, I would think a table saw with a sled would serve both purposes better. But for the segmenting I've done, and that's pretty limited, I think a miter saw works best for cutting the segment pieces. Being able to start with wood that's uniform in thickness and width, then cutting segments that are accurate angles, greatly reduces the sanding to get the ring halves together which in turn makes lining up the rings easier and more concise.
I'd also say that using a sled to cut the segments on a table saw is safer than just using a miter guage. You can build jigs to clamp the wood onto the sled and then the sled slides without having to get your fingers close to the blade. If you're serious about segmenting, get a copy of Malcolm Tibbets book or DVD and study up on his basic techniques, tools required, and safety on cutting small segments.

[Bill Bulloch]

I use the tablesaw myself, but know of those that use the bandsaw. If you use the bandsaw then an accurate jig for your disc sander is a must. If you Goggle "segmenting jig for disc sander" you will find examples of the jig, or check out Curt Theobald's DVD.

[Greg Just]

I use a tablesaw with a jig so that I can repeat the cut on as many pieces as I need. I have an old Craftsman and I struggle to get the angle set just right. When I do, I cut a lot of pieces.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I use a 10" sliding compound mitre saw for mine. I had a chance to talk with Malcom at a Symposium. He told me he uses a compound mitre saw for 95% of his cutting with a 20" disc sander. He told me my sliding mitre saw with a 80 tooth blade would be excellent. Now I just need to minister of finance to release some funds for a good 12" disc sander.

[Dan Hintz]

I kind of figured the tablesaw was more appropriate than the bandsaw for the accuracy reason, but I had to ask. I have a decent miter saw, but it's not compound... I've been looking for a reason to upgrade, so does anyone think going that route is nearly as good as a tablesaw?

[Michelle Rich]

Hi Dan: this question is discussed over on the segmented site at least weekly. It isn't really is one better than another. some folks like the mitersaw, some the table saw..it's irrelvant. You need PRECISION with a blade that runs true, a way to get PERFECTLY cut angles ( a digital protractor is a godsend) . That is the only requirement. Nice to have? An incra & sled. (I prefer tablesaw as I hate the mitresaw's tendency to throw wmall pieces around the shop) I do not make my pieces fit by sanding,. they are either cut right the first time or they are firewood. If i can't cut it right, how could I sand it right? IMHO. I used a very precise arm powered swedish mitrebox for years. It was terrific & made great segments. You do not need a compound mitre, for 99% of segmenting work. Hope this helps

[Luke Townsley]

If you want to use the bandsaw, you could clean your cuts up and true them up with hand planes using various jigs. With the right setup and a bit of skill, you should be able to get better pieces than you would straight off the table saw. Now, to be clear, I haven't tried this, at least not yet, but it should be possible and fairly quick after you get the right jigs built. It wouldn't be faster than the table saw, but I think you could make better parts in some woods. Granted, the difference in finished quality would be pretty much negligible.

[Robert McGowen]

you could clean your cuts up and true them up with hand planes using various jigs. With the right setup and a bit of skill...........

and an unlimited amount of time.... :)

[Scott Hackler]

The only time I have done segmented, I used my compound miter instead of the table saw. Mine was out of a need because my table saw is an old Craftsman and the compound miter is new (more accurate). I was relieved to see Malcolm's article in Woodturning Design showing him using a compound miter. I guess great mines think alike! :) I will reiterate his comments in that article though. If you use a compound miter you MUST make the cut and let the blade stop before raising it to retrieve the piece. Don't ask how I figure out this little tid-bit!

[Robert McGowen]

I have a decent miter saw, but it's not compound... I've been looking for a reason to upgrade, so does anyone think going that route is nearly as good as a tablesaw?

I don't think that this SPECIFIC reason is a reason to upgrade. I don't think that you would ever use the compound part of the saw to cut segments. It would normally stay upright at 90 degrees.

If you are married and just want a new saw though, let me know and I can delete this reply! ;)

[Terry Beadle]

I use the my compound mitre saw to rough cut. If you have one, it can be set up to give very accurate results.

Sanding disk can tweak the results as needed.

If your only choices are bandsaw and table saw, then a table saw with a sliding table is really the better choice IMO.

From a safety stand point, a TS with sliding table and clamps is the safest and most likely not to pop off a finger.
Chop saws can be set up to jig in the pieces to be cut but not as easily IMO.

Enjoy the segments ! Hoot!

[Kenneth Hertzog]

I use neither to cut segments. I'm currently making barrels with either 12 or 16 stave's.
I run the inside of the board thru the planer to the thickness I want, cut the width I want
on the bandsaw then run the pieces thru the router table with either a 15 degree or 11.25 degree bit.
comes out perfect each time and no sanding required.
but that is how I do it
tap and bung have not been added yet
Ken

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[Bill Wyko]

I use an Incra miter 3000 sled & the table saw. IMHO it's the most accurate way to go.

[Dan Hintz]

Looks like I'll need to unbox that Craftsman tablesaw after all... now where to put it...

[Kevin Lucas]

I have an old Craftsman table saw with the odd type of miter slide cut like a T. It is a pain to make any jigs for. I tried a miter saw for segments and got good cuts but the odd ones flew off. I could not figure a good way to add a pressure arm so I tried the band saw. An old blade I sharpened with a round file cut as smooth as the miter saw but was not good enough to do bowl blanks. A new blade I put on did blanks fine but a rough surface so more sanding.

I kept the old blade and the band saw miter slide is set to 15 (I think) and put it aside so the setting does not change.