Wipe on poly or Antique oil?

[Daner Steel]

Hey all, I'm making a bunch of bottle stoppers for Christmas.

What finish would you use between the 2.....Wipe on poly or the antique oil??

The woods will be a variity of exotics

Dan:)..........TIA.

[Fred Belknap]

I don't see much difference in the final finish. The antique oil seems to not darken the wood as much as WOP. WOP seems to cure a little faster. (smell test)

[Daner Steel]

Thanks Fred, I have used them both but not on bottle stoppers. I wondering if the A.O will look better after there buffed.

[Roger Chandler]

Fred,

I have had the opposite experience..........antique oil is fast drying [I use Minwax in the red can] and WOP gives more shine and dries fairly quickly.........an hour or so, depending on the temp and humidity. Antique oil dries in about 3 minutes if you burnish it in............dry to the touch almost immediately.

[Tim Rinehart]

I've only made a handful of stoppers, but used CA in fashion of penturners. It's a durable finish that will (should!) hold up to exposure to alcohols and other use in the kitchen. Nice shine too, right from lathe.

[Daner Steel]

Maybey the stopper could be completed right on the lathe with the antique oil.........It would save a lot of time.....plus no beal buffing

[Kyle Iwamoto]

How interesting. IMO, antique oil darkens light wood significanly........ You may or may not like that. Are there more brands than Minwax AO?

I finish my stoppers using HUT Perfect Pen Polish (PPP). BUT WAIT! hold that flamethrower. I apply tung oil over the PPP. PPP is not a great finish, however, it's really fast and feels good. The tung oil gives it the pop and durability that the PPP does not have. I bought the PPP long ago, before I knew better. I refuse to admit I made a mistake, so I still use it, and I hope I run out soon. Needless to say, I'm very generous applying the PPP. 2 coats each.

[Daner Steel]

How interesting. IMO, antique oil darkens light wood significanly........ You may or may not like that. Are there more brands than Minwax AO?

I finish my stoppers using HUT Perfect Pen Polish (PPP). BUT WAIT! hold that flamethrower. I apply tung oil over the PPP. PPP is not a great finish, however, it's really fast and feels good. The tung oil gives it the pop and durability that the PPP does not have. I bought the PPP long ago, before I knew better. I refuse to admit I made a mistake, so I still use it, and I hope I run out soon. Needless to say, I'm very generous applying the PPP. 2 coats each.

Whats wrong with the Perfect pen polish?.......If it has Carnuba wax in it I bet that the reason??

Anyway, I don't car if the Antique oil darkens the wood a tad.....but It sounds like it would save time.

the main thing will the Wipe on poly do a better job on a stopper than the antique oil?

[Fred Belknap]

Antique oil dries in about 3 minutes if you burnish it in............dry to the touch almost immediately.
Roger what you say is true but I don't consider it cured till I can't smell the finish.

[Jim Burr]

I'd be worried about the stability of the finish in the fridge. I've never made one...including those that head to the gallery without a CA finish. With all the handling, rolling around in the drawer or counter top, a wax based finish won't hold up.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Dan I have used AO on stoppers and like it pretty well. I have found though that rattle can lacquer or brush on lacquer applied on the lathe is a much quicker finish and won't darken the wood. I just friction the brush on lacquer into the wood. I have not had a problem of any kind with either of these finishes being in the fridge.

[Daner Steel]

Dan I have used AO on stoppers and like it pretty well. I have found though that rattle can lacquer or brush on lacquer applied on the lathe is a much quicker finish and won't darken the wood. I just friction the brush on lacquer into the wood. I have not had a problem of any kind with either of these finishes being in the fridge.

Thanks everyone for there coments on this.

Bernie, did you friction the A.O on the lathe as well, also did you add any way to the stopper before you took it off the lathe?

I have some Deft rattel can laquar, I may try to friction that on just for a try.

Thanks

Dan

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Daner, the reason PPP is not a good finish, is that it not very durable. I've made pens in the past, and used them and wore off the PPP finish in a couple weeks. Well, maybe not worn off, but the oils from my hand changed the color and texture of the pen, which is only evident because the wood under the clip stays the original color and the rest of the pen gets that patina. I do like it because it has a nice feel, and it's fast. The oils (either the AO or WOP) penetrate and protect the wood. Ive applied both over the PPP and have similar results. The AO seems to have more pop.

Bernie has some good advice. I used lacquer on a stopper that I've been using for over a year in my vodka bottle. Lacquer is a very durable finish that usually won't change the color of wood. Good for those light woods. Can't remember if I used the PPP first. But that was't your original question....:)

[Daner Steel]

Well I tryed a few different ways to finish the stoppers....C.a , A.O and wipe on poly.
oh and i tryed the rattle can Deaft.
The rattle can did not work for me....I tryed to friction it on, maybe thats why....The C.a with linseen oil worked ok and I got the same shine with the Antique oil.
But its alot easier finishing them on the lathe. wipeing on poly and waiting 2 days is too long for this old cowboy.

Now i'm wondering if I buff these stoppers with the Beal buffer if the shine will increase?