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Mike Cutler
11-15-2011, 12:31 PM
Looking for a little insight into two repairs I'd like to make to my 32 year old D35.

First repair is the "Martin Crack" at the pickguard. My thought is to glue a piece of Spruce under the crack to stabilize it and then graft in a slender piece of spruce to the top, or possibly fill it. Not sure which. The crack does not go all the way through the top, and is ~2 1/2" long.

The second repair is to the bridge. It's started to lift away from the top. What is the best way to lift it off without damaging the wood fibers in the top underneath. I've checked the X braces and they seem to be fine, aadhered to the underside of the top with no evidence of seperation. I used a flexible Bor-o-scope to look inside.

I've contacted Martin and they indicated that they would probably replace the top, which I don't want to do. They were also a little non commital as to how much would be covered under warranty.
I bought this guitar new in 1979 from Hanich's Music store in Azusa Ca. I've taken it on submarine deployments, played in bars in a half dozen countries with serviceman from other foriegn countries, and two uhmm...... Brothels:o. Did a jazz recording with it in Hawaii, played it in weddings and given a few impromptu lessons through the years. It's got a lot of memories associated with it, which is why I don't want the top replaced. It's pretty special to me
I'd like to repair it myself, or get a really solid recommendation for a Luthier in the eastern CT area that can do the repairs. I won't just give to anybody, and I'd be extremely reticent to ship it away for repairs.

Thanks for any help you can give me.

Mike

truitt sosebee
11-15-2011, 1:11 PM
Fixed the "Martin pickguard crack" on my 1965 D18 with a little superglue mixed with spruce dust drop filled into the crack about 5 years ago and it hasnt spread even though I keep it strung up with mediums all the time. But, my guitar is a beater and I wasn't worried too much about appearance, just making the crack stable, so YMMV
To remove the bridge you're going to have to heat it. I made an aluminum heating iron for mine that fits the contour of the bridge. Heat it up in the oven to about 400 and hold it on the bridge, then pry underneath the bridge GENTLY with a thin palette knife (you can get one in the paint department at an art supply store). Once the bridge starts to "let go", the palette knife will slip right in and you can use it to GENTLY pry the glue loose. The hardest part of this repair will be to get the old glue off of the top before re-gluing. I would mask the area around the bridge off and then scrape the old glue off using a razor blade. You'll have to make a special clamping caul to put the bridge back on. It is absolutely imperative that you apply even pressure to the bridge when you're gluing it down. Again, I made a couple of clamping cauls for this one.
I also fixed a 3"x4" hole in the upper bout of my Martin (ouch) using bondo, brown paint, and a fine-point sharpie. Guitar has lots of "character", but plays and sounds like a million bucks.

John Coloccia
11-15-2011, 5:04 PM
If you're going to bring it to a luthier, Harry Becker us your guy.

John Powers
11-15-2011, 6:39 PM
My 1966,D-28 has an acetate tortoise shell pickguard and the same crack. I took it to Nazareth and they kept it two months fixed the crack, a little twist in the neck and other small stuff for nothing. I am the original owner but had no proof so they told me write down, swear and have it notarized and that was it. The crack has not moved in 15 years. I was told the acetate tended to cup and contributed to the crack. They kind of lightly stuck it on with minimal adhesive and it hasn't moved. I think they have authorized repair people locally. The guy in Philly is excellent. He worked on an Alvaraz of mine with a lifting bridge. In got to believe that famous crack is covered for the original owner. It's got to go home or to a good local guy. They're such treasures it becomes a burden planning where they go after we check out. My brother plays but he's a lefty.

Jim Creech
11-16-2011, 7:42 AM
Mike,
I have been repairing stringed instruments for a lot of years and was once a Martin dealer and Authorized Repair Tech. Heat is the best way to soften the glue however, heat may damage the finish on the bridge if you are not very and a slip of the iron may also damage the top .
As you want to do this yourself I suggest some hot vinegar worked under the bridge. It will take several applications and patience but will not damage either the bridge or top finish. You can also use a metal spatula instead of a palette knife. Just remember to work slowly and carefully. After the bridge is off the softened glue will be gummy and will easily scrape off. Allow the instrument to dry overnight. Tip- Wrap two bridge pins with a turn of scotch tape insert them into the outermost holes to properly align the bridge then clamp (not too tightly) Once secured remove the pins. Use carpenters glue only. Do NOT use superglue or epoxy as you may need to remove the bridge at some future point. BTW I have a '68 D-35. Bought it new and still playing great 43 years later.

Mike Cutler
11-16-2011, 10:19 AM
Thanks for the advice and tips folks. Doing it myself is still something I'm mulling over.
One of my bigger obstacle to repairing it myself is having a stable environment for it to set in and reach equilibrium prior to effecting the repair.

John
No problem with establishing ownership. I still have the Bill of Sale from Hanich's. ($900.00 for the guitar and Blue Martin hardshell case. For a grocery store clerk, that recently had joined the Navy, it was a ton of money then:eek:) I also understand what you mean about leaving it in a condition that allows someone else to use it after I'm done with it. I definitely don't want to pass on a hack job.

Jim
Thanks for the Vinegar tip. That was the part that had me the most concerned, getting the bridge off cleanly.
Does Martin use a hide glue, or a yellow glue at the factory?

Truitt
Thanks for the tips about removing the bridge.Your thoughts echo John's that it's a slow process to perform correctly.

John
I checked out Becker and Cumpiano. A trip to North Hampton may be in the near future If I decide to have someone do it for me. I also like that they are an authorized Martin repair facility.
Believe it or not, you were the first person that came to mind to have repair it for me.

Once again, thanks guys.The guitar is sitting unstrung in it's case right now with a humidifier and hygrometer waiting to be made new.

Jim Creech
11-16-2011, 10:35 AM
Martin, as do most makers ,use plain old carpenters glue, yellow or white. Personally I prefer white glue. Dries almost clear. The reason I suggested the hot vinegar is because it is a normal household item as is the spatula. For a one off repair like this you don't need to buy or make specialized stuff.
Good Luck!

John Powers
11-16-2011, 12:56 PM
Used my viet nam money to buy that Martin and an MGB. the B got rear ended but the Martin keeps on. I've dedicated myself tom the classical guitar for the last 15 years but the Martin still comes out for I Aint Marchin' Anymore and The Night They Drove Old Dixie Down. Far and away my prized possession.

John Coloccia
11-16-2011, 1:27 PM
Believe it or not, you were the first person that came to mind to have repair it for me.



I thought you liked this guitar? LOL. I actually don't really do repairs except as a favor for friends. This may change in the future as I go through Harry Becker's repair class. It really is a much different skill set than building.

Mike Cutler
11-19-2011, 6:32 AM
John. I think you're being very modest about your skill level.

To all, another question with regards to the Martin Pickguard issue.

Are "new" pickguards not subject to the same shrinkage problem as the pickguard on my guitar that caused the problem?

As for the pickguard repair/replacement;
Is it better to replace the pickguard, ot reuse the old one? and should the guitar top are where the original pickguard was installed be finished prior to re-installing the pickguard?

Thanks
Mike

John Coloccia
11-19-2011, 8:54 AM
A new pick guard won't give you the same problem. You typically will leave the wood unfinished underneath the pick guard because that's how it happens to be right now, but that was part of the problem on these guitars. The plastic they used shrinks and because it's glued to the wood it takes wood along with is, often leaving the classic crack. If they had simply put the plastic over the finish, maybe with tape or spray adhesive, the pick guard would have simply popped off without doing significant damage.

Mike Cutler
11-20-2011, 7:14 PM
Hey folks.

I had to give it a go. Just my nature I guess.
I got the bridge off easy enough, using the pallet knives that Truitt suggested, and softenenng it with vinegar, most of the glue came off on the ebony bridge. I used two drywall trowels to keep the heat off the finish, and direct heat under the bridge. I found a piece of .010 motor shim stock and used it like a scraper to get the glue off. A solution of vinegar along with the shimstock scraper got the glue off very quickly. A very minor amount of wood from the spruce top came up with the bridge, two slivers. I was really happy about that.
The pick guard came off very easily, and as soon as it came up, the crack, that had buckled up like two ridges, immediately flattened out. I may not have to glue a support piece underneath the top like I previously thought.
I've got it back in it's case again stabilizing, and as soon as I get off these crazy hours at work, I'll be able to put it back together. Looks like I may have to make some special clamps though. Time will tell.
Thanks for the help.

Mike

george wilson
11-20-2011, 7:43 PM
I used to be a factory authorized Gibson repairman in the 60's. Took off a lot of bridges by laying a wide chisel bevel down against the top. The bevel needs to be flat,(not concave),and the cutting edge set exactly on the glue line. A sharp whack or 2 with a steel hammer against the end of the chisel's handle would pop them off clean.

One time,a D35's bridge cracked where the saddle was. Seemed a problem prone to that model. I took the bridge off that way very cleanly.