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View Full Version : "Wave" sanding discs vs ???



Eric Gourieux
11-14-2011, 8:26 PM
I've seen alot of posts about power sanding on the lathe. The response is variable, but one common recommendation is to use the blue discs from woodnwonders.com. I don't see where they carry the wave shaped discs like I use, but they do carry different shaped back up pads. I've been filling orders for bowls for Christmas gifts, and I've gone through alot of the yellow wave discs from Craftsupplies lately. Since I use them on the inside and outside of the bowls, I'm hesitant to use a disc that is not wave shaped. Am I getting hung up on the "wave" too much? Don't the round discs sand an edge or "dig" into the inside of the bowl? Is it the shape of the back up pad that keeps the round discs from "digging in"? Many of my bowls have been curly hard maple, so it's pretty hard wood. Any help would be appreciated.

David E Keller
11-14-2011, 8:29 PM
I've had good luck without the wave using Vince's system that you mentioned. Certainly the price for the wave discs is higher. FWIW, I switched to the pink discs several months back, and I like them just as much as the blue. I think the density of the interface pad and the pressure applied are more important than the shape of the sandpaper.

John Keeton
11-14-2011, 8:48 PM
Wave disks can leave nasty edge cuts - just the opposite of the intention, I am sure. That is why Vince does not carry them. He has his disks made to his specs, and they are excellent. The back up pads can effect the sanding process - I suggest you call Vince and speak with him. Nice guy, and he knows his stuff. I have never had him try and oversell me.

Paul Singer
11-14-2011, 8:48 PM
I have been cutting the disks from Vince and putting the wave on them to sand the insides of the bowls. It seems to help alot on making the disk last longer. Maybe I don't sand properly but without the wave the disk tend to crease on the edges then they dig in and the abrasive disappears on the edges of the creases.

Jim Burr
11-14-2011, 8:55 PM
My Mutabo has a 3" pad and Vinces' discs are about 3.25ish so there is a nice overhang for a fold over. I would recommend only using a foam pad under the paper and not planting the paper on the hard backing of a sander.

Reed Gray
11-14-2011, 10:22 PM
I have used some wave discs and did not like them. The larger discs from Vince do the same thing, and may crimp over a bit, so the effect is the same. Vince's discs are by far longer lasting, cheaper and cut better.

robo hippy

John M. Smith
11-15-2011, 8:08 AM
+1 for Vince. I tried a sampler pack in June, that I purchased at the AAW symposium. Worked fantastic. Bought 25at of every grit at the Ohio symposium on October.

Dick Strauss
11-15-2011, 9:09 AM
I use an oversize disc as well with a 1/4" to 1/2" overhang (2.5"-3" disc on 2" sanding pad). The disc won't have a chance to dig in unless you rev the sander to full speed and try to cut the wood with the edge of the disc. It wastes a little sandpaper. However, any area that is still good on the sanding disc can be used while hand sanding.

Russell Neyman
11-15-2011, 9:19 AM
Two comments, and then a question:

I purchase my hook-and-loop sandpaper in 36"x36" sheets, cut it into appropriate strips of two and three inches wide, and keep them hanging near my lathe. This saves a ton of money and really isn't much bother. When I need some, I simply snip off a square and stick it onto the pad. The relevance here is I have the option of leaving the four corners in place, which effectively keeps the edges of the paper from digging in. If I need to sand close to a detail (bead, etc) I cut it round, but mostly I just leave it square. Storage is actually easier, too, because I clip all of the strips together and hang them of the wall. Works great.

Is anyone else having trouble with the quality of the hook-and-loop foam-backed sanding pads? The last bunch I purchased failed in record time, the yellow pad separating from the plastic mandrel. The best brand I have found is Australian (with a blue foam) but I'd like to find a local source.

Now, for my question. Who's Vince?

Bernie Weishapl
11-15-2011, 9:49 AM
Another vote for Vince's sanding paper and pads. Give him a call and he will help you.

Russell go to vinceswoodnwonders. His name is Vince Welch and is a great help. No affiliation just a satisfied customer.

Russell Neyman
11-15-2011, 10:14 AM
Thanks, Bernie. Just went on line and ordered half a dozen two-inch mandrels. Hopefully, they'll prove to be more durable. I think I overstress the foam pads when I sand the inside of my hollow forms because of the steep angles. To avoid the edges digging in I press fairly hard so that the pad lays flat. I'd be interested to hear if other people have the same issue with the foam breaking down.

Has anyone tried to repair worn out hook and loop that no longer grabs onto the paper? I'm tempted to try CA glue, since it is (theoretically) heat-resistant. These pads get pretty hot under a load.

Reed Gray
11-15-2011, 1:22 PM
Pressing too hard is a problem. It will generate more heat. The heat will break a lot of glue bonds, as well as actually melt the hooks. Once they wear out, like your abrasives, toss them. I, after talking to Vince became a fan of slow speed sanding. It is more effective. The firm pads are for grits up to 220 or so, then switch to the soft pads. Vince has some medium pads as well, which are better to conforming to concave shapes. A disc of 120 on a firm pad cuts better than a disc of 80 on a soft pad.

robo hippy

David E Keller
11-15-2011, 3:42 PM
I think you may be pushing a bit hard, Russell. I've had the same mandrel for a couple of years now, and I haven't even burned up an interface pad yet... Vince sells the interface pads to allow for changing the density as Reed mentioned and also to protect the mandrel. I'm sure there are other sellers out there, but I've never had any reason to look. No affiliation with Vince... Just a satisfied customer.

Faust M. Ruggiero
11-15-2011, 4:36 PM
Russ,
Vince makes his interface pads in two shapes and three densities. Use the tapered (out) interface pad to fit into spots like a dovetail foot as well as any convex surface. The interface with the rounded over edge works well inside the bowls. Vince recommends his firm pads for the courser grits and medium density for fine grits. They cost a lot less than the arbor and are easy to toss when they wear out.
faust