My new planer is coming with a 5" dust port. I can't seem to find any 5" hose +++

[Bob Feeser]

I just ordered a new 20" planer and it comes with a 5" dust port. I have a JDS Dust Force with a 1.5hp motor that draws 1250 CFM. Since the owners manual calls for a minimum of 600 and the planer will be located right alongside the dust collector that should do fine. My problem is that I can't find 5" dust parts including hoses etc.

So my real question is what would be the best way for me to connect this? My first thought was buy a 10 foot long 5" hose, and use an adapter right at the dust collector to reduce it to 4". I couldn't find any 5" hose. Then I figured ok I just bought 10 feet of 4" hose why don't I just use the adapter at the planer, but the ones they have listed in Amazon have people complaining because they are for hooking up a 5" hose to a 4" hose and they don't work on hooking up a 5" connection on the planer. So I am stuck. Any help is greatly appreciated in clearing up this mess.

[Jamie Buxton]

Use 5" hose, and adapt down right at the cyclone. Oneida sells 5" hose. http://www.oneida-air.com/inventoryD.asp?item_no=SCOLLECT8&CatId={418DE3CD-BD6F-4D57-8A56-44C817778904}

[Jamie Buxton]

Waitaminute... I just read the specs on your dust collector, and it has an inlet diameter of 6". I'd use 6" ductwork, and adapt down to 5" at the planer.

[johnny means]

I have a ten HP dust collecter drawing almost 4000 cfm hooked up to a 20" planer via a 4" hose. The hose is definitely the weak point in the system. I can often see the mark of poor extraction on my planed lumber. If. I were setting up again I would go with bigger ducting through the entire line, probably 6" all the way to the planer with a shop made 6" port.

[Ryan Mooney]

Grizzly has some hose in that size as well:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/5-x-10-Clear-Wire-Reinforced-Flexible-Hose/G3180
I have that exact chunk and it works pretty well, can't compare to the Oneida as haven't tried that - price is comparable either way.

They also have some cheaper hose:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/5-x-10-Clear-Hose/T23417
but I can't really recommend that (I've used some short pieces of that type in 4" to hookup to a Y on some machines and it just doesn't stand up as well - tends to crimp and squish), imho either of the wire reinforced will likely work pretty well (again no idea on comparable longevity, etc..).

[David Kumm]

Kencraft, Grizzly, others sell 5 or 6" hose. The actual working cfm of your collector will barely create a 4000 fpm velocity on 6" hose so the 5" might be a better option, especially since you are restricting the port. If your DC was larger the 6" hose would be a better option. Dave

[Peter Quinn]

Kencraft, Grizzly, others sell 5 or 6" hose. The actual working cfm of your collector will barely create a 4000 fpm velocity on 6" hose so the 5" might be a better option, especially since you are restricting the port. If your DC was larger the 6" hose would be a better option. DaveWhat he said. And the less flex hose, the better. Every ten feet of flex hose equals 40 feet of smooth pipe in terms of resistance. I guess if you are genuinely right next to the DC you may be ok, but do try to minimize the hose. If you must drop down to 4", you MUST restrict at the DC end. I tried to restrict at the planer end with a 15" and it was a major choke point. The results were not at all acceptable, and I was using 10' of 4" flex hose and a JDS dust force 1 1/2HP single bagger. The best way to make any transition from one diameter to another is with a long tapered metal reducer such as available from Onieda or Grizzly. Even 5" hose can get choked with a 15" planer depending on the species and width of the boards. Maple and pine are two real fluff makers, even poplar shavings which tend to roll off like straws can choke a 5" hose.Of course if you opt for a spiral head its much easier on your DC situation in general. Too late to change your order?

[Chris Parks]

If you put the collector right next to the planer I hope you wear good personal dust protection.

[Peter Quinn]

http://www.pennstateind.com/store/N-CVD-0510.html Here is another source for hose and pipe.

[Rick Fisher]

My system uses 6" flex hose reduced to 5" at the planer. Works outstandingly well..

4" Flex hose will get overwhelmed with chips if your planing wet wood or full width.. My entire system is 6" pipe and I recently clogged it planing rough cedar because it was a bit wet.

[Kent A Bathurst]

This conversation made me think of something....kinda like a light bulb came on [or not].

I have 5" mains. However, the jointer has a 4" port. Short of building a new port cover [not excluding that option, it's just not the point of my question], is it better to run the 5" right up to the jointer and then use the adapter right at the machine? Currently, I have it set up where the adapter is at the other end of about 6' of 4" hose.

So - is there a real-world difference between 5">4" adapter followed by 6' of 4" flex hose versus 6' of 5" flex hose followed by a 5">4" adapter?

Full disclosure.....the dust pickup at the jointer is "adequate", but I do get some fly-out above the tables. The TS and the planer are cool....but they have 5" all the way, and they are closer to the DC by about....wait for it......6'.

I could make the change as described above. I could get rid of about 4' of the flex hose, and replace it with another elbow and a short length of hard pipe. I could do both of these at the same time.

[David Kumm]

Kent, It depends on the capacity of the system. Also check the inside of the jointer. Some have a chute inside with an open top. If you bend some sheet metal to create a top for the internal chute your 4" port will get much better performance. 5" hose to the 4" port will increase your velocity by a few hundred fpm if all goes well and the system can deliver it but that won't make a huge improvement unless you can improve what happens to the air inside the jointer. Dave

[Bob Feeser]

Some more info. I used a WoodCraft cyclone separator (See photo below) metal trash can lid for a 30 gallon can as a pre-sifter of all of the heavy particles. It is a lot easier to dump a smooth 30 gallon trash can than it is to empty the bags on the JDS Dust Force. Those lids have 4" hose openings. Since this planer sits right alongside the dust force unit, I can make the 5" hose run only 5 or 6 feet and then place the 5" to 4" adapter right before the gate into the WC separator. That thing works really well. I installed some sticky one side gasket material where it meets the can and when you start the dust collector it sucks the lid down tight.

You've given me some ideas when it comes to the longer run being smooth metal. I have a Y connector after the WC lid and a shut off running 4" hose along the floor about 20+ feet and discovered when I pulled the side cover off of my PM Table saw that it was loaded with saw dust. It took me awhile to clean it all out, and then blow out the upper parts real well. So a 6" metal tube to run a lot of the way around and under the outfeed table which is 80+" and that leaves only 10 feet to run wire reinforced hose along the floor. I don't really want to run hose up to the ceiling it would constantly get in the way, and cause the particles to have to climb up a hill, and that should create choking.

[Bob Feeser]

Waitaminute... I just read the specs on your dust collector, and it has an inlet diameter of 6". I'd use 6" ductwork, and adapt down to 5" at the planer.

That is a good idea but I want to be sure and use the WoodCraft cyclone separator in the line as well especially when planing a lot of boards and that is a 4" setup. It's a great and inexpensive add on. There is a 6" port on the JDS but that is attached to a big Y adaptor that screws right onto it, and has a qty of two 4" hose connectors coming out of it. The other one of the Y's goes to the jointer, and table saw. Great suggestion though. Thank you.

[Bob Feeser]

I appreciate the help. I never thought about the velocity created due to hose size entering into it. I think because there will only be a 5 or 6 foot run of five inch hose being reduced right at the DC to 4" I want to try that. I can shut off the rest of the entire system with gates so it is concentrating just on the planer.

[Rick Fisher]

I had a Shop Fox 2hp Bagger unit for a long time with 4" ducting and flex hose.. I got into sanding machines and decided to buy my last DC .. I had come up with this theory that the DC was my most used machine in the shop, because whatever I was doing, it was chugging away in the background.

I ordered a machine which calls for 6" pipe.. So while I was waiting for its arrival, I tore down all the 4" PVC and replaced it all with 6" .. Then the new DC was delayed. .
So in frustration, i took that plastic Y off the Shop Fox and connected the 6" pipe directly to the 6" outlet on the 2 HP collector..
The improvement in performance was amazing.. Had I known what a difference it would make, I probably would have waited on getting a bigger DC ..

The ability to move a large volume of air in most dust collectors is limited to the Filter and the size of the pipe used.. You can buy aftermarket metal dust ports to replace factory 4" dust ports on machines, I have a friend who has done this and said the improvement was great.

[Bruce Wrenn]

HD sells 6 X 5 reducers. As for cyclone lid from Woodcraft, trash it and build a Phil Thien "Top Hat Baffle," with side inlet. I have a 4" version (not side inlet) that I use with my Delta 15", It can be seen by googling "Another Vote for Phil Thien's Baffle." My Delta has a 5" outlet, which I used a reducer to change to four inches.

[Paul Johnstone]

I don't think it's a good idea to do what you propose:

Planer - 5 inch - 4 inch - trash can seperator - dust collector

I have a 20 inch planer as well.
That thing throws out tons of chips when you are using full width.
I am running like this:
planer - short piece of 5" - adapter - about 8' of 6" flex - 6" rigid - 5 Hp cyclone.

If I leave another blast gate open by accident and run the planer, chips will collect in the flex tubing.
The point of this is that you need to give the planer all the airflow you possibly can.

You might be ok with Planer - 5" duct- adapter - small run of 6" - Dust collector.
I don't see how you are going to be able to work the trash can collector in here and be
able to handle the chip load of the planer.
If you try it, start slow and monitor.

[Jim Andrew]

My woodmaster came with a 4" dust flange, and I have a 2hp cyclone, with 6" pipe. So I took a 6" flange, and drew on the hood with a marker, and used my jigsaw to cut it out to 6", and welded on the flange. The WM manual said to wear a dust mask, even when your planer is hooked to the dust collector. In my shop I don't need it. The 2 hp cyclone is just minimum for the planer. If I happen to have 2 dust ports open, lots of chips fly out the table of the planer.