More Hand Saw Restoration questions

[Mike Holbrook]

So I am checking out saw auctions now and trying to figure out which saws may be restorable. I see a few saws that look like the blades have been cleaned chemically. I understand that this may destroy the etching or at least the ability to read it. I am wondering though, in the case of a saw that may be too worn for the original information on the blade to be restored, is chemical treatment an option. I know from restoring other tools that there are some products that remove rust. I believe at least some of these products create their own finish on the steel. I am not sure whether these chemically created surfaces are beneficial or harmful in the case of hand saws?

In the case of a saw that seems to be in decent shape but has a slight curve in the blade. I got some feedback that seemed to indicate this is a repairable issue. I am not sure how it might be improved or fixed though? I also wonder how big an issue a slight curve in a blade is?

I have seen old handles with cracks repaired, so I know that may be an option. I am wondering how hard it might be to fit a new handle to an old saw though, since I am accumulating files/rasps/floats...specifically used for this type work. I know there are places where bolts designed for this specific use can be bought. I have found designs for many old handles at Wenzloff & Sons.

There also seems to be a whole category of hand saws that are younger than their more popular older siblings. The younger saws do not seem to have the fit and finish of their earlier kin but they are frequently in better condition. Apparently a few, like the Disston-D23, had many loyal users despite their lesser fit and appearance. I think some of these saws have thinner harder blades which might make very good user saws?

[lowell holmes]

I have an older D23 10 tpi that is an excellent saw. It is equal to my D20 9pt.

I have a D8 panel saw that I favor, but the D23 performs as well.

My saws that are newer than the D23 don't have the fit and finish, but perform well.

[Paul Incognito]

Here's my take on handsaws. I've bought a few at the auction site and tons more at flea markets and yard sales.
I stay away from chemical rust removers, sanding with a sanding block does the job. I generally start with 220 unless the saw's in really bad shape, then I may start with 100 or 150, depending.
Handles are repairable (we are woodworkers afterall), the problem I've had is getting a good match on the color of the new wood to the old. I've bought basket case saws just for the handles and saw nuts, which have come in handy.
A slightly curved blade shouldn't affect the cut, but generally these are fixable. George Wilson has a tutorial here that adresses how he does it, and his method has worked for me. Kinks are another issue, I stay away from kinked saws unless the handle and/or nuts are something I'm interested in.
I have a wide variety of saws from a 1840's #9 to a 1940's D23. With some care and a little bit of elbow grease, they're all fine users.
Hopefully this helps. There's a lot of folks here who have forgotten more than I know, hopefully they'll add to this.
Paul

[Andrae Covington]

Here is George Wilson's method of fixing a curved sawplate:

To straighten a curved crosscut or rip saw: You must pour boiling hot water on the blade,and instantly bend the curve out of it. You can bend a cold blade all day long,and not get it straight-IF it is made of GOOD spring steel. Most commercial saws aren't made of good spring steel,and have fairly soft blades that you might bend cold. The antique Disston saws,and saws of other good makers were made of much better steel than now.

George added later that it's a good idea to wear gloves when doing this.

Below are before/after shots of my results about a year ago. I put my saw on the back porch, boiled a pot of water on the stove, poured it on the blade, and then bent the blade. The saw was bowed about 1/4". It was also kinked in the other direction, near the toe. I made another attempt after these photos and was able to reduce the kink, but not completely eliminate it.
212759212760

There's also Bob Smalser's description (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?63325-Straightening-Bent-Handsaw-Blades&highlight=saw+bend) of a method to remove kinks involving hammering the blade. I have not tried this.

[Jim Matthews]

It may not be necessary to straighten a steady curve, in order to cut cleanly.

Kinks that deviate from the average line like a "frost heave" cause my saws to buck.
I don't care how valuable those are - I ditch them fast. I'm not interested in rehabilitating deviants - I want tools to use.

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[Mike Holbrook]

Well I won another auction, another "off brand", Bridge Tool Co. No. 225, 22 1/4, 8 ppi, rip. I have my eye on another full length rip saw 26", 5 ppi that has a decent buy now price that I think I am just going to go for rather than playing with the auction site for days. Then I will have shorter/finer & longer/coarser CC & rip saws. The saw I just bought looks like it is in good shape and hopefully will not require much work. It cost about $35 with shipping. I imagine I could have played around and saved $10-$15 but the saved shopping time & restoration time is well worth it to me. I think I am saving some money buying good tools without the name & model recognition factor that seems to run the prices up quick. At least I hope I am getting good working tools.

I called Mike Wenzloff and since he had not shipped my Half-Back saw kit yet I was able to add sharpening of the blade to my order. So I will have a good model to work from, at least for CC sharpening. I also added a general selection of files and a tooth set. By the time I build the kit and do a little restoration & sharpening with the auction saws I should have a decent familiarity with western saws. I plan to have some sort of jaw set up for holding the saws to sharpen them by the time they get here.

Thanks for helping to keep me focused on functional tool skills guys.

[Jim Matthews]

One note about sharpening I might add...

Quite by accident I filed one of my crosscut saws (11tpi) with no fleam and little rake (like my rip cut saw) and set it as normal.
It cuts really well, with no tearout. I leave the line and shave down with a plane to my final dimension.

I have to wonder why I've been trying so hard, as this works so well.

[Mike Holbrook]

Pulled the cord on a Sheffield Saw Works #30 Frye Phipps & Co, 26", 5 ppi, rip saw. Handle & blade appear to be in good condition. I hope this saw will rip with speed. I believe I have a saw for all the jobs I have planned now.

[Paul Incognito]

Sounds like you're building a nice nest of saws, Mike. Enjoy them!

Paul

[Michael Ray Smith]

I don't have much experience removing rust from saw blades, but I did clean one D-8 with EvapoRust. The etching is readable, but barely. Of course, I have no idea how it would have come out with another method.

[Ralph Boumenot]

There are several good topics on cleaning rusty saws available out there. The WK footstools site has quite a few different opinions on how to clean a saw. I used the recommendation from Matt Cianci at Sawblog.com. I tried 4 different ways of doing it, and I like Matt's way the best. Find one and stick with the one you like and works for you.
ralph