WOP Application

[wes murphy]

Whats the best way to apply WOP, on the lathe or off? I've had some luck with the on lathe application with my bottle stopperss and pepper mills, but I'm wondering if thats the bst way to do it.

[Ralph Lindberg]

I am no expert, and I have heard that on-lathe works really well.

That being said, the 11 bowls I did today were all done off lathe.

I have them sitting on melamine covered shelving. I wear nitrate gloves for handling and application.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I don't finish anything on the lathe. Much easier for me to finish them off and more control IMHO.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I'm with the others on this. I don't use any thing liquid other than CA on the lathe. My lathe gets enough junk on it just from teh CA. I don't want anything else splashing around on it. The only "finish" I apply on lathe is the PPP friction polish. I add tung oil off lathe.

[Donny Lawson]

Its better to finish with WOP "OFF" the lathe.Have something to hang the project from or work with one end at a time. WOP takes a little while to dry and it takes up lathe time if its tied up with a project with WOP on it.

[John Keeton]

Wes, you will get varied responses on this - and already have. We all use somewhat different methods, but for me, the finish on many of my turnings begins with the application of BLO and shellac, which I do on the lathe. I usually let that cure for 2-3 days or more depending on the weather conditions and the piece itself. Then, I begin the application of WOP off the lathe. I doubt one could get complete coverage and a good finish on the lathe for a variety of reasons.

[Bill Bulloch]

I finish my stuff on-the-lathe whenever possible. On-the-lathe you can hand turn the piece by the wheel and reach every part of it without leaving finger prints that have to be dealt with later and it is a lot easier to sand betweet coats. After I apply a coat of finish, I will take it off the lathe (leaving it on the chuck) and take it into the house where it is less dusty. I normally leave it in the house overnight to dry and take it to the shop in the morning while the dust is settled to apply additional coats. There are times, however, (when I am in a hurry), that I let it dry for only a few hours. In these cases, I can apply up to three coats a day. Clean-up has never been a problem -- Take the necessary precausions and if you do have a mishap remember: WOP is easier to clean-up than CA Glue.

[wes murphy]

thanks for all the advice and the variety of responses. Like everything else, I guess, whatever floats your boat is the way to do it. Gives me some good insight.

[Robert Newton]

I enjoy very much all the comments on the many topics on Saw Mill Creek but can someone let us uninformed what all the abbreviations
mean such as WOP. BLO, PPP and many others used. Sorry I guess I am a rookie.

[David Reed]

Wes:
I am in the camp of mostly apply the finish on the lathe. I can burnish it and easily (dry or wet) sand with 600 or 1000 grit, bringing upstairs if needed to dry overnight. I will then treat the foot after and final hand buffing off the lathe. I have not used the Beal system as yet.


for me, the finish on many of my turnings begins with the application of BLO and shellac, which I do on the lathe.

John - what is your mix of BLO and shellac? Do you mix and dewax your own shellac or buy dewaxed? and what is your reason for this prep finish?

[Prashun Patel]

On is the best for me because you end up applying many thin coats that do not drip, run or sag.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I enjoy very much all the comments on the many topics on Saw Mill Creek but can someone let us uninformed what all the abbreviations
mean such as WOP. BLO, PPP and many others used. Sorry I guess I am a rookie.

WOP = Wipe On Poly (Minwax) Good fast finish

PPP = Perfect Pen Polish from HUT. NOT a durable finish, but a waxy coating that you apply on lathe and buff while the lathe is running.

BLO = Boiled Linseed Oil. Probably the "best" finish, but takes a while to dry. Really makes grain pop and glow. Also a spontaneous combustion hazzard. In case you already didn't know that. I had a near fire from it. So I don't use it anymore.

More you'll probably see is HF is Hollow Form or Harbor Freight. TO Tung Oil.

[wes murphy]

BLO = Boiled Linseed Oil. Probably the "best" finish, but takes a while to dry. Really makes grain pop and glow. Also a spontaneous combustion hazzard. In case you already didn't know that. I had a near fire from it. So I don't use it anymore.
I find that EEE Ultra shine to be a good subitute to BLO. BLO takes too long to cure for me. I guess I'm one of those instant gratification people.

[Robert Newton]

Thanks for the info.