Type of wood to use to paint on and Faux finishes

[Don Morris]

I was going to make a Swedish style grandfather clock, called the Mora clock, from a kit sold by "Klockit". When you're married to a Swede, that's what you do. In Sweden, Mora clocks are painted with designs, (some have faux finishes). Being a woodworker I was going to copy the Klockit unit which wasn't painted, but shown made out of cherry. The cherry I saved for this is over 40 yrs old and given to me by a friend who is no longer able to do wwing. However, LOML has her heart set on the traditional painted look. I must admit they are charming to look at. A few I've seen do have some natural wood showing, and that's what I think I'll end up doing. I'm a little worried about using all cherry, and wonder if cherry would be the best wood for the painted or faux application areas. Finishing isn't my strong suit to say the least. Would I be better off to use a different wood in the areas where I intend to paint? My wife and daughter-in-law have strong art backgrounds, so I'm not worried about someone being able to do the art work. Thanks for any ideas about wood selection for this project.

[John TenEyck]

To me it would be a shame to waste cherry on something that will be painted, although I know it's sometimes done. I'd use maple if some areas are to be left natural, and poplar if all of it will be painted. If the maple is too light in color, you could always dye the whole piece to whatever color you want, prior to painting.

[Jim Rimmer]

If I were making something that was to be painted I would use Poplar.

[Howard Acheson]

I would use cherry only on areas that will show. Poplar is a good wood for painted surfaces but it's not a good choice for a clear finish.

Consider what your finish is going to be. Most clear finishes will impart an amber tone and the amber tone will affect the color of any light colored paints that are used for the design. If you intend to over coat the whole project with a clear finish, your best bet is to use a waterborne clear acrylic. These finishes are water clear and will not affect the color of something underneath.

[Jeff Monson]

I have good success with soft maple for painted projects. Tight grain, easy to mill and fairly hard.

[Bill White]

All of the above.
Bill

[Don Morris]

Thanks for the advise! Didn't want to waste this precious cherry.

[Prashun Patel]

+1 for poplar.

[John Coloccia]

Poplar is hard to beat. It's easy to work with and takes finish beautifully.

[Jim Becker]

Maple and tulip poplar would be the normal choices for a paint-ready surface. They are smooth with close grain and take opaque finishes well. Now...I wouldn't use "primo" cherry for this because of the expense, but I absolutely would use cherry that is unsuitable for clear finishes...sapwood and other color defects...if I had it available in lieu of purchasing new material. Like the other two species I mentioned, cherry does take finish very, very well and for the same reasons. So if you have cherry stock that's not appropriate to stand on its own...use it as a nice secondary wood and for projects where you'll be covering up the color "defects". No point in wasting it!