Cleaning Stronghold Chuck

[Noah Barfield]

Hi all,

My Stronghold chuck has been stiff to open and close since I first got it. As is the case with many woodworkers, I'm a hefty guy and torque is not usually a problem. Since first using it in September, it has become increasingly difficult to open and close.

The instruction manual calls for soaking the chuck in mineral spirits to clean it. Another post on the Creek recommends soaking it in diesel fuel.

I live in an area where environmental regulations are fairly strict. Also, the nearest hazardous materials drop-off site is about an hour's drive away. So....does anyone know of any "green" and effective ways of cleaning my chuck?

Thanks,

Noah

[Jon McElwain]

I bet a simple green soak would do the trick. Simple green is sometimes used (controversially) to clean resin of saw blades. It might have what you need to get the compacted sawdust, resin, and such out of the chuck. I have noticed that my talon and stronghold chucks got stiffer over time, but I use compressed air regularly and it seems to keep it from getting any worse.

Oh, and you'll want to lubricate it with a dry lube after any soak.

[Dan Hintz]

My Stronghold chuck has been stiff to open and close since I first got it.
This statement bugs me... it shouldn't be difficult to open straight from the package, so I wonder if you got a bum chuck...

[Damon Stathatos]

I just got a new Stronghold about a month ago and it is very stiff to open and close. Another thing that I've noticed is that the key wants to slowly retract (similar to a hydraulic motion) out of it's 'seat' as I am turning it. Up until now I hadn't thought too much about it and just figured that it was the nature of the beast.

[Richard Allen]

Please note that the vast majority of chucks in use from all manufactures have never been taken apart and are providing excellent service for the owner.

With that said, every new chuck should be taken apart, inspected and "adjusted".

When you take the chuck apart and inspect it, you will likely see some tool marks or small burs. It is normal for a chuck to benefit from "adjustment" when first purchased. Even if the chuck needs no "adjustment" taking it apart, cleaning and applying a small amount of dry lube will ensure smooth operation for a long time.

Cleaning? Solvent and a tooth brush should let you clean all parts. Any solvent will help. There is likely some machining lubricant left behind. So a solvent that will degrees is preferred. Kerosene is a good solvent for this.

What do you look for when you take apart the chuck? Look for burs and sharp edges. These can be "adjusted" with a fine file, a diamond hone or for curved surfaces sand paper. Closely inspect, with magnification, all the moving surfaces. With the scroll removed the jaw slides should move smoothly in and out of the chuck body (not freely but smoothly). With the scroll removed slide each of the jaw slides around the scroll. The slides should move smoothly. "Adjust" (file, hone or sand) anyplace where the jaw slides don't move smoothly.

Dust on a very light coat of dry lube on all moving surfaces. Wipe off the dry lube. This should leave some lube behind.

Taking your chucks apart once a year to clean and lube will help insure that the chuck works flawlessly for your woodturning lifetime.

I learned this from Dick Sing who learned it from decades as a toolroom machinist.

[Noah Barfield]

I just got a new Stronghold about a month ago and it is very stiff to open and close. Another thing that I've noticed is that the key wants to slowly retract (similar to a hydraulic motion) out of it's 'seat' as I am turning it. Up until now I hadn't thought too much about it and just figured that it was the nature of the beast.

That's been my experience too! I wound up dousing the chuck with WD40 last night. After wiping it all down, it now runs much smoother. I can easily open and close it with one hand.

Noah

[Noah Barfield]

This statement bugs me... it shouldn't be difficult to open straight from the package, so I wonder if you got a bum chuck...

Me too. As a high school teacher, I'm not exactly rolling in the dough. Yet when I ordered this chuck, I wanted to get one of the best so that I wouldn't be fighting the tool. With tools, I've always tried to follow the motto "Buy the best and you only say 'ouch' once. Buy a cheap tool and you'll be saying 'ouch' for the life of the tool." I feel like I not only got stung at the price ($280), but have been stung every since then.

[Scott Hackler]

Noah, that chuck would have been returned the next day if I received it that way. It should be very smooth, right out of the box.

[Noah Barfield]

Noah, that chuck would have been returned the next day if I received it that way. It should be very smooth, right out of the box.

In hindsight, I entirely agree. However as someone brand new to turning, I didn't know better at the time. Unfortunately it's now got too much wear and tear on it for me to return it.

[Nathan Hawkes]

It should be smooth for sure. One question; did it come smeared in the factory grease coating that often accompanies chucks? I have two strongholds and both operate flawlessly. The factory rust preventing grease can be very thick, and attract so much dust that it can cause friction. I hadn't noticed it on the strongholds I have, but on another different chuck, and a drill chuck I bought. Both are smooth as silk after cleaning off the rust preventing grease. Looking for a burr on one of the slides or on the scroll mechanism itself is about the best advice anyone can give you, if you feel competent to disassemble and re-assemble the chuck. If not, call Oneway. Their customer service is great.

[Bill White]

http://eddiecastelin.com/capn_youtube_gallery
Check out Cap'n Eddie's chuck clean up tips. It is a good tutorial.
Bill

[Noah Barfield]

It should be smooth for sure. One question; did it come smeared in the factory grease coating that often accompanies chucks? I have two strongholds and both operate flawlessly. The factory rust preventing grease can be very thick, and attract so much dust that it can cause friction. I hadn't noticed it on the strongholds I have, but on another different chuck, and a drill chuck I bought. Both are smooth as silk after cleaning off the rust preventing grease. Looking for a burr on one of the slides or on the scroll mechanism itself is about the best advice anyone can give you, if you feel competent to disassemble and re-assemble the chuck. If not, call Oneway. Their customer service is great.

I think you've nailed it--I didn't de-grease the chuck at first. It probably became gummed up with the dust and factory grease. Hopefully the WD40 I sprayed on last night will clear all of that out.

[Noah Barfield]

http://eddiecastelin.com/capn_youtube_gallery
Check out Cap'n Eddie's chuck clean up tips. It is a good tutorial.
Bill

Thanks! Will do. I haven't watched all of his videos yet, but the ones I have seen have been very helpful.

[Derek Gilmer]

Please note that the vast majority of chucks in use from all manufactures have never been taken apart and are providing excellent service for the owner.

With that said, every new chuck should be taken apart, inspected and "adjusted".

When you take the chuck apart and inspect it, you will likely see some tool marks or small burs. It is normal for a chuck to benefit from "adjustment" when first purchased. Even if the chuck needs no "adjustment" taking it apart, cleaning and applying a small amount of dry lube will ensure smooth operation for a long time.

Cleaning? Solvent and a tooth brush should let you clean all parts. Any solvent will help. There is likely some machining lubricant left behind. So a solvent that will degrees is preferred. Kerosene is a good solvent for this.

What do you look for when you take apart the chuck? Look for burs and sharp edges. These can be "adjusted" with a fine file, a diamond hone or for curved surfaces sand paper. Closely inspect, with magnification, all the moving surfaces. With the scroll removed the jaw slides should move smoothly in and out of the chuck body (not freely but smoothly). With the scroll removed slide each of the jaw slides around the scroll. The slides should move smoothly. "Adjust" (file, hone or sand) anyplace where the jaw slides don't move smoothly.

Dust on a very light coat of dry lube on all moving surfaces. Wipe off the dry lube. This should leave some lube behind.

Taking your chucks apart once a year to clean and lube will help insure that the chuck works flawlessly for your woodturning lifetime.

I learned this from Dick Sing who learned it from decades as a toolroom machinist.

Cleaning down the road makes sense. But I'd be frustrated to need to take it a part and start filing/polish parts for a smooth working chuck.

[Jamie Donaldson]

I had no problems with any of my chuck collection for many years if I occasionally give them a good squirt of WD 40, and then blast them out with compressed air.

[Tim Rinehart]

Noah...quick heads up. If you plan on completely disassembling and checking for any burrs that may be causing you grief, you will need a pair of snap ring pliers during disassembly and reassembly. It could be that a burr somewhere didn't really become an issue till dust and such accumulated. I'd still consider the Stronghold one of the best out there, but things get missed.
I wouldn't hesitate to contact Oneway if it's still under warranty or if you have paperwork from buying it new. They may even ask that you just send it back so they can see what the problem is to make sure there isn't something wrong with their manufacturing process.

Best scenario...they send you a new one and a return receipt to ship yours back!

[Dick Strauss]

I haven't had any problems with a 5+ year old Stronghold. I'd talk to OW first before doing any repairs.

[Paul Heely]

I would talk to Oneway even if it is out of warranty. I had a wolverine platform that was misaligned when it was welded. I went several years thinking it was my quick install job. When I finally redid the installation I figured out what the real problem was. Oneway agreed that it was a manufacturing issue and replaced the platform even though it was out of warranty.

I have two Talons and one Stronghold. Normally I just blow them out and apply a little lubricant. Recently I did have to remove the jaws and jaw slides to remove some wood chips that had become stuck in the slide's teeth. Other than that I've had no problems on any of them in 5+ years.

[Noah Barfield]

I would talk to Oneway even if it is out of warranty. I had a wolverine platform that was misaligned when it was welded. I went several years thinking it was my quick install job. When I finally redid the installation I figured out what the real problem was. Oneway agreed that it was a manufacturing issue and replaced the platform even though it was out of warranty.

I have two Talons and one Stronghold. Normally I just blow them out and apply a little lubricant. Recently I did have to remove the jaws and jaw slides to remove some wood chips that had become stuck in the slide's teeth. Other than that I've had no problems on any of them in 5+ years.

Update: I just got off the phone with Oneway. They were great and immediately knew what I was talking about. The anti-rust grease they had been using was causing many of their chucks to gum up. They walked me through how to remove it (a mineral spirits soak followed by lubing with mineral oil). I really appreciate all of the responses and may have to give Captain Eddie's cleaning method a try.

Noah