New shop walls hmm...pink & white?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Here's some photos to satisfy the "Photo Cops" even though the commanding officer seems to be AWOL these days.........I've got about 80% of the walls insulated to R-19 and plan on having fiberglass blown in at R-40 in the ceilings.

In one photo you'll notice some of the left over 2x6 finger-jointed wall studs I nailed to the top of the bottom chords of the trusses. I used these as "wire troughs" and ran all my electrical runs on them.

There are 4 - 120 circuits for the walls. 2 circuits down each wall and across the end. 6 outlets wired on each circuit. I used 12 gauge wire for the 120. I wired in 8 240 circuits. Each is wired with 10 gauge wire and is on it's own 20 amp breaker. If I need to go to 30 amp breaker it's not a problem and the 10 gauge wire is already there.

The small amount of white insulation was left by my contractor when he insulated the wall corners and headers during construction. So some of the insulation is white; most is pink. Hope to finish insulation this weekend and then on to covering the walls.

[Karl Laustrup]

Looking good Ken. :D Won't be too long now, right?;)

I would guess those are dual glazed windows to go along with all the insulation.

I am curious though. It appears to be a regular overhead garage type door. What are you going to do to seal that off as far as heat loss/gain?

Just curious as my shop is the garage [that has vehicles when not in use as a workshop] and while I've insulated, that door is my major heat loss. Thought I might be able to pick up a simple and easy idea to help with mine.
TIA for any insight.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Karl the windows are dual glazed insulated vinyl windows. The garage door is an insulated door and I specified to the contractor that I wanted a "flat" surface and showed him my neighbor's garage doors....plural. One of my neighbor's garage doors is flat and seals nicely. The other garage door, each section appears to have a chamfer at each joint of the horizontal section. This makes it almost impossible to seal where these horizonal chamfers meet the vertical walls. My garage door was installed by the door company while I was on vacation last July. They used a reinforced rubber seal that seals it quite nicely. If I wasn't planning on occasionally working on a vehicle in my shop, I'd have put in double outswing doors.

[Jeff Sudmeier]

I think it would have been much prettier if you would have alternated, pink and white! Like a stripe pattern :)

Anyways, looking good Ken!

Jeff

[Russ Massery]

Brings back great memories, I'm on my second shop. Are you going to put up a vapor barier? I suggest doing so know, 4mil plastic is relalitivly inexpensive for the benefits it gives you. Keep us posted on the progress.

[Jim Becker]

Looking good! Unfaced goes in FAST. I'm with Russell...poly vapor barrier is really a must to nearly eliminate air infiltration as well as help control humidity during the warm months. Goes up fast, too, assuming you're using a staple hammer which is absolutely the tool to use for any kind of this work. Even a cheap one is ten times better than using a staple gun that you have to squeeze to use.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I will probably be using 6 mil plastic vapor barrier. A vapor barrier is required to meet code. I ALWAYS build to current code or better. (I had a friend whose house sale was held up when it was discovered that his house had been moved to it's current location and never attached to the foundation.It cost him inexcess of $6,000 for the aid of a structural eng. and materials with him providing the labor.) I happen to have 2 staple hammers but....I also have a 20 year old (IIRC)electric stapler I've used for putting vapor barriers up in my remodeling projects. It's faster than a staple hammer and I just bought a 2nd box of 5000 staples for it.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

My next major decision will be wallboard or plywood for the wall covering....As much as I'd like to install plywood on the walls and ceiling the cost would probably eat my budget up and really slow down the progress as I'm operating on a cash only basis. :confused: :confused: :confused:

[lou sansone]

nice job ken...
I have found that SR walls really do not hold up in the long run in a busy shop (IMHO). Have you considered using solid wood for the walls. I found that in the long run it was more durable than plywood and SR, and when you agree to take a truck load of it it was actually cheeper than plywood.
lou

[Bart Leetch]

Ken

I used to install insulation professionally I understand where your coming from when you say that you electric stapler is faster. It probably would be better for putting up the vapor barrier because you won't swing & miss & put a hole in the plastic where you don't want it. However for insulation with kraft or foil backing I don't think you'd be able to keep up with a staple hammer.

I think your on the right track & doing a great job.

So what are the dimensions of your shop?

[Jerry Olexa]

Ken, looking VERY good!! Envious here

[Chris Padilla]

Thanks for the update, Ken...wondered what you were up to! :)

You might consider placing plywood between the studs to make it easier to NOT have to locate a stud to mount storage boxes on. Pocket holes will make installing them go smoothly.

After that, sheetrock it baby! :) It has been going up in price around here. Home Depot's 5/8" type X (4x8, firerated) was $7.76 last fall. It is darn near $9 now! :(

My folks are in town this week to visit with their one and only grandchild and so I convinced them to paint the garage...man, it looks spiffy. I chose a nice semi-gloss Pure White and wow is it bright in there! :D

[Michael Gabbay]

Ken -

Looks great! If you go with wall board I'd use 5/8". I did that for my basement family room so that the kids would not put holes in the wall. I also have it in a small section of my shop. It works great and is not much more money. It does weigh a lot.

Mike

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Bart....my shop is 30'x24' with a finished ceiling height of 9'7".