Kent A Bathurst
11-07-2011, 9:22 AM
I use routers when I gotta use routers, not as a staple of my work process. So, appealing to you guys that know your way around this topic: 'splain something to me, if you would be so kind:
42" wide hardwood [QSWO] table top. Very serious $$$ gorgeous-grained wood. I will be machining tenons for breadboad ends. Failure is not an option.
> I may need 2 different bits, maybe 2 different diameters, and I have no problem with that if it is the best solution. The cost of a couple of bits is a rounding error compared to the cost of the wood.
> I have a pair of PC 690's - one of the traditional On-Off models, and one newer model with variable speed, and all 3 bases. Also, a Makita lam trimmer, but can't see how that comes into play here.
> I also have the excellent Betterley dust collecting bases, so there really isn't much of an issue with dust in the bottom of a slot, if that is a consideration.
> I understand the "multiple passes" game very well.......would go for 3/16" max depth-of-cut, unless a different scheme is warranted.
1] First issue - define the shoulders of the tenon. I would, of course, hope for zero tearout. My limited knowledge tells me to leave the up-cut spiral bits in the drawer. Beyond that, tho?? And - might be over-driving my headlights here, but it seems that a small diameter bit, with it's correspondingly lower tip speed, would be smart, but again....I dunno. Plus, with the VS, this shouldn't be an issue, but again.......I dunno.
2] Second - mill out to create the tenon faces. Flat bottom-of-cut is the goal. But - I don't need mirror-flat.
3] Strategy: cut the shoulders to final depth, then start at the outer edge, working in, to mill out the faces.
Thanks
Kent
EDIT: You can edit the post, but have to leave the lousy typing in the title................
42" wide hardwood [QSWO] table top. Very serious $$$ gorgeous-grained wood. I will be machining tenons for breadboad ends. Failure is not an option.
> I may need 2 different bits, maybe 2 different diameters, and I have no problem with that if it is the best solution. The cost of a couple of bits is a rounding error compared to the cost of the wood.
> I have a pair of PC 690's - one of the traditional On-Off models, and one newer model with variable speed, and all 3 bases. Also, a Makita lam trimmer, but can't see how that comes into play here.
> I also have the excellent Betterley dust collecting bases, so there really isn't much of an issue with dust in the bottom of a slot, if that is a consideration.
> I understand the "multiple passes" game very well.......would go for 3/16" max depth-of-cut, unless a different scheme is warranted.
1] First issue - define the shoulders of the tenon. I would, of course, hope for zero tearout. My limited knowledge tells me to leave the up-cut spiral bits in the drawer. Beyond that, tho?? And - might be over-driving my headlights here, but it seems that a small diameter bit, with it's correspondingly lower tip speed, would be smart, but again....I dunno. Plus, with the VS, this shouldn't be an issue, but again.......I dunno.
2] Second - mill out to create the tenon faces. Flat bottom-of-cut is the goal. But - I don't need mirror-flat.
3] Strategy: cut the shoulders to final depth, then start at the outer edge, working in, to mill out the faces.
Thanks
Kent
EDIT: You can edit the post, but have to leave the lousy typing in the title................