Fitzhugh Freeman
11-06-2011, 5:40 PM
How would you cut the throat in a verawood sole for a Krenov-style jointer? I'm new and could easily be overlooking the obvious.
After resawing and planing I have two planed pieces of verawood, 3/16 and 5/16 thick. I'm thinking the thinner as it will be easier to work. I have a few more lengths to resaw for other planes, none clear for the whole 23" this one calls for.
I didn't realize in time that many just glue the sole on before ripping the cheeks and cutting the center block into two pieces, front and back.
I could add an insert of verawood, but the red oak I have for the body seems a poor choice for a high wear surface.
I could slice the sole into two pieces along the throat, giving easy access, but I don't like the idea - I don't mind it taking time and effort. This plane is already taking a long time as I started with a chunk of red oak and a board of verawood, each way oversized, and crosscut, ripped and resawed them down to size with just a cheap ryoba, a stanley jack plane and a wooden plane I made from scrap. I needed to show myself I could instead of having it milled. Some of those cuts took an hour - a frame saw is next.
This wood is so hard! It also leaves a hard crust on saw teeth and plane irons... not sticky sap, much more like thick surface rust. Builds up very fast and keeps tools from cutting. I stop and scrape it off every few passes. It's also giving me lots of practice sharpening. Add to that, it chips rather easily and I'm quite allergic to the dust. Oh well, I've got enough of that and the oak to make two or three additional planes.
I've had little luck with chisels. For my first trial attempt I drilled a hole for a coping saw, sawed out the length of the throat, and then tried a variety of things. Well-tuned card scraper was best, hand paring with chisels was hardest. I don't have a thin enough file (and no floats) to fit until it is nearly done anyhow - it will fit for final tuning.
The bed angle is 45 and I cut the front angle at 60, so I'm considering shaping a card scraper so one corner is 75 degrees or less (the 90 won't fit), then using the triangle block I cut out of the center as a guide. The fit here is so critical.
Thanks
After resawing and planing I have two planed pieces of verawood, 3/16 and 5/16 thick. I'm thinking the thinner as it will be easier to work. I have a few more lengths to resaw for other planes, none clear for the whole 23" this one calls for.
I didn't realize in time that many just glue the sole on before ripping the cheeks and cutting the center block into two pieces, front and back.
I could add an insert of verawood, but the red oak I have for the body seems a poor choice for a high wear surface.
I could slice the sole into two pieces along the throat, giving easy access, but I don't like the idea - I don't mind it taking time and effort. This plane is already taking a long time as I started with a chunk of red oak and a board of verawood, each way oversized, and crosscut, ripped and resawed them down to size with just a cheap ryoba, a stanley jack plane and a wooden plane I made from scrap. I needed to show myself I could instead of having it milled. Some of those cuts took an hour - a frame saw is next.
This wood is so hard! It also leaves a hard crust on saw teeth and plane irons... not sticky sap, much more like thick surface rust. Builds up very fast and keeps tools from cutting. I stop and scrape it off every few passes. It's also giving me lots of practice sharpening. Add to that, it chips rather easily and I'm quite allergic to the dust. Oh well, I've got enough of that and the oak to make two or three additional planes.
I've had little luck with chisels. For my first trial attempt I drilled a hole for a coping saw, sawed out the length of the throat, and then tried a variety of things. Well-tuned card scraper was best, hand paring with chisels was hardest. I don't have a thin enough file (and no floats) to fit until it is nearly done anyhow - it will fit for final tuning.
The bed angle is 45 and I cut the front angle at 60, so I'm considering shaping a card scraper so one corner is 75 degrees or less (the 90 won't fit), then using the triangle block I cut out of the center as a guide. The fit here is so critical.
Thanks