What would I need to cut this groove

[Jeff Ranck]

The problem with this bed I'm thinking of building is that everything seems more like framing timbers than normal joinery. The design calls for a groove 1/2" wide, 1/2" deep cut 1" from the edge of the board. I figured this would be a job for a plow plane, but it is clearly too big for something like the LV small plow plane. Other than chucking a dado blade on my TS (which wouldn't easlily work for those that don't run the full length of the board), how would I cut this?

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[Jim Belair]

A plow plane is the hand tool of choice Jeff. The LV Small Plow could do it in 2 passes. Or you could saw either side then remove the waste with chisels or a router plane.

JimB

[Trevor Walsh]

That is two passes next to eachother, 1/4" depth of cut a pass would be comical to say the least. That's also how I would do it.

[Steve Friedman]

Sorry to be thick, but I am new to this and am always confused by choosing among a plow plane, router plane, and shoulder plane. Is the plow plane the right tool here because the surface is too narrow for the router plane and the shoulder plane doesn't have a fence? If yes, then I'm starting to get it.

Thanks,

Steve

[Mark Baldwin III]

Something like this? The groove that goes all the way down was done with an LV small plow plane. 1/2" is the ultimate limit of the depth stop. The largest iron is 3/8" wide, so you can cut a groove, then move the fence, and cut again. It actually went somewhat quickly. The stopped groove was done by marking out with a knife and chisel, then taking out the waste with an LV large router plane. The stopped grooves are, obviously, more nitpicky to do (they are really pushing me towards getting or making a stair saw). Both are 1/2" wide by 1/2" deep.

I put them next to each other on this piece just to compare. The dimensions of the piece you are working should be just fine if you were to use a router plane.

[Bill Moser]

You might consider a larger plow, like the Stanley 45, which can cut a 1/2 inch groove in one pass. A decent user with a relatively complete set of blades will run you less than the cost of a new LV on the usual auction sites

Edit: Correction, it seems that for the price of a new LV plow with all blades, you can get a complete and mint 45. I recommend getting both. You can never have too many plow planes :D

[Mike Siemsen]

A marking gauge and a chisel would work fine, maybe a router plane to clean up the bottom if it is fussy. Stanley 45 with 1/2 inch iron, regular plow plane with 1/2 inch iron.

[Jim Koepke]

This is easy work for a Stanley 45.

One of these with a 1/2" blade could also take care of the task:

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There are a lot of ways to cut a groove and many planes that are made to do the job.

One advantage to having a Stanley 45 is the ability to also make simple decorative features.

A router plane would be painfully slow and would take one being very focused on the job at hand.

jtk

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

Yeah, although a router plane and or chisel might work, when Jeff is talking about making a bed, I feel like that indicates these grooves are going to be long enough, using a plane is really going to be the best option. As others have suggested, I'd opt for a vintage plow that has or takes and iron wide enough.

I have one of the Mujingfang plows kicking around, and I believe that it came with a 1/2" iron, so that may be an option if finding a vintage one proves difficult.

[Jeff Ranck]

Something like this?

Yep, looks pretty much exactly like that! :) The pieces are longer, but that doesn't matter. I wasn't sure if the LV small plow would actually cut 1/2 wide. I had considered two passes, but since I've never run a plow plane, wasn't sure if that was a realistic option.

[Jeff Ranck]

I've never really looked hard at a 45, although I generally knew what they looked like. I took a quick look at the usual auction site. First one on the list - in box example - ~$300. I'm sure I can find a user for less, but that caused me to pause a bit.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

I had to make a wide groove once - I only had an 1/8" plow at the time - I ran two grooves to define the outside of the groove, then it was really easy to bash out the center bit (which was maybe a 1/4 or an 1/8?) with a chisel working across the grain. Broke off quite easily, and quick pass with a chisel bevel down cleaned the bottom of the groove up enough for the surface I needed.

[Dale Cruea]

Not a hand tool solution I know. I am just getting into hand tools and don't have a big selection.... yet. Working on it. :p
I use a router table with a fence for most grooves. The stopped grooves are easy. I mark the leading edge of the bit on the fence and the stop point on the stock.
When they line up you are done. Clean the end up with a chisel.
Then use a shoulder plane to fit the tenon which I also make on the router table.
Hope I don't get banded from this section for this.

[Jim Matthews]

I also, prefer hand tools.

This would be dead solid easy with a powered router. Just gang the two rails together with clamps to make a stable bearing surface for your router plate.

With a dual fence (front and back) clamped to the router plate, you can keep the bit from wandering.
Most of us galoots prefer the unpowered plow plane, as it is easier to handle on a long straight-away.

[Mike Holbrook]

You might want to check out my post http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?175152-Hand-planes-to-replace-powered-router, currently immediately below this one, it covers much of the same subject matter.
I am a little surprised that no one mentioned sawing the shoulders and cleaning the waste with chisels & router plane. For a 1/2" wide groove I think this might be the easiest way to go. Zach explains how in the post I made, go to the end of the post. The Mujingfang Plough sold by Japan Woodworker comes with a 1/2" wide blade but it only goes to 3/8" deep according to the description, also below.

[Bill Houghton]

I've never really looked hard at a 45, although I generally knew what they looked like. I took a quick look at the usual auction site. First one on the list - in box example - ~$300. I'm sure I can find a user for less, but that caused me to pause a bit.

If that was a "buy it now" price - pay no attention. A lot of sellers put up tools at inflated "buy it now" prices hoping to snag a sucker. Get into the right category and look at completed auctions to get an idea.

A straight clean 45 is a joy to use; so is the LV plow. Either one would work.

[Jeff Ranck]

I am a little surprised that no one mentioned sawing the shoulders and cleaning the waste with chisels & router plane.

I'm thinking sawing isn't much of an option since the length of the "stretchers" - who knows what to call these things in a bed headboard - that the grooves are cut into are about 71" long with two mortises cut into it at a couple of places along the length.

But it looks like I have a couple of options if I don't want to deal with the power router - a Stanley 45 or two passes with a LV small plow.

Jeff.