I need a new table mount router

[jeff vanek]

i'm looking for a router to mount in my table. my current table mounted router is a 30 year old milwaukee with a 1/4' collet. i looked today to see if i could buy a 1/2" collet, and the part is around $30, instead of spending the $30 on the collet, i figured i'd just look for options on a new router, since the old milwaukee sounds like it's on it's last leg, and actually, it's a not very user friendly when it comes to changing bits and such. i'd like a router where i could change bits above the table. i already have a plunge router, a bosch 1613EVS, so i'm looking for a dedicated table mount.

[Ray Newman]

Is there a price limit?

No use recommending something that may be out of your price range....

[jeff vanek]

Under $350

[Dave Anthony]

I recently got a Triton and have been very happy with it. Reasonable price, and you don't need a lift. Above the table bit changes with one wrench, and a winder for fine adjustment. The only down side is you have to move the fence to use the winder.

[Cyrus Brewster 7]

For a router only option, check out the big Triton (3hp). It seems to be the best for a router attached directly to a table. Bit changes above the table is part of the design. However, I cannot comment on the router as I have not used it myself. I think Woodcraft has it on sale now.

Another option is a router with a lift. Right now Jessem has their Mast-R-Lift for on clearance for $200. It is designed to take the 3hp PC 7518. You can pick up the motor only for between $250 and $270 (depends if it is on sale). This is $100+ more than what you what to spend but is a good setup.

If you do not need that much power, Jessem's Rout-R-Lift II paired with a 2 1/4hp PC/Dewalt/Bosch/Milwaukee motor can be had in you price range.

FYI - I have the PC 7518 in a Woodpeckers PRL and love it.

[John Fabre]

Here's one
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2244

The Bay has one 170715900305 good deal

[jeff vanek]

Not look for anything to fancy, above table bit change, and height adjustment is what I'm looking for.

[Keith Pitman]

I got the smaler Triton several years ago and have been very pleased with it. The built-in ability to adjust height from above the table is great and the router came with a number of accessories for use off the table.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I'd suggest waiting a few weeks until the Black Friday ads hit.
Last year, IIRC, Woodcraft had a super blow out price on a router with all the features you're after.
IIRC also, the deal wasn't limited to the wee hours of the morning where you had to be there at like 4:00am in order to be assured of getting one.

Having said that, I've been very happy with my Freud 1700 VCEK. It has above table adjustments.
I made the decision to go with a 2.5HP (under 15 amp) machine instead of the 3HP (15 amp) because I run my router table at the end of an extension cord.

IMHO - it's hard to go wrong with a Freud, Triton or Milwaukee. All of them offer what you want.

[Jerome Hanby]

The Freud FT3000VCE (http://www.freudtools.com/p-261-ft3000vce-3-14-hp-variable-speed-plunge-router.aspx) is what I currently have in my router table. It adjust from the top and also has a collect lock accessible from the top. It has enough travel to make above the table changes easy. Buy a speed wrench and bit from harbor Freight for a few dollars and cranking the router up and down is quick and easy. Only problem I've had is that I cracked the socket for the above the table collet lock. Pretty sure that one is mostly on me, I think I put the speed wrench in that socket by mistake and torqued it pretty hard...

[jeff vanek]

i have been looking into the porter cable 890 series, but have read alot of bad reviews and porter cable recalls, but these are reviews from a few years ago, have all the problems been fixed? also how does the pc890 series compare to the trition TRC001 3 1/4 hp, which wood craft has on sale for $199? i can get the pc 895 package for $233.

[Derek Gilmer]

The Freud FT3000VCE (http://www.freudtools.com/p-261-ft3000vce-3-14-hp-variable-speed-plunge-router.aspx) is what I currently have in my router table. It adjust from the top and also has a collect lock accessible from the top. It has enough travel to make above the table changes easy. Buy a speed wrench and bit from harbor Freight for a few dollars and cranking the router up and down is quick and easy. Only problem I've had is that I cracked the socket for the above the table collet lock. Pretty sure that one is mostly on me, I think I put the speed wrench in that socket by mistake and torqued it pretty hard...

I've got the Freud ft3000 as well and it has done great for me.

[Jim Rimmer]

This thread has heightened my interest in getting a new table mount router. I would really like to have the above table bit change and the height adjustment. I looked at the Freud and find it pretty pricey. The Triton is on sale at Woodcraft for $199 but when I looked at the Triton website for more details it says the input is 230 - 240Volts. It shows no option for 120V. Is this correct? I find it improbable that very many hobbyists would have a 240V hand held router (even if it is mounted in the table).

[Dale Cruea]

I have a Triton 3hp 120v under my table. I like it. Works well for me. Mine is a few years old but has not given me any problems. It replaced a Porter-Cable that just didn't last very long at all.
I never used the above the table option to adjust the height. I did not want to drill a hole in my mounting plate.
The only problem I have with my Triton is that it will not drop back down on fine adjustments. You have to back the adjustment screw off about 2 turns until the router drops then always adjust up.
It has been a good router for me.
I also use a WoodPeckers Aluminum plate. No sag at all and at the time not that bad of a price. I got a few of the metal rings before they quit making them.
BTW a Triton has the same mounting hole pattern as Porter-Cable.

[Cyrus Brewster 7]

Jim,

Triton is located in Australia - so it will list 230 - 240V. The ones sold in the US are 110 - 120V.

Jeff,

The pc890 is 2/14 hp vs Triton 3 1/4. If you are looking for a dedicated router for the table, the Triton may be a better suited since it has more power and mounting to a table was built into the design: smooth/above the table height adjustment; easy above the table bit changes. However with the pc or any other kit you get a second plunge base.

If I had not been given a lift as a gift I would have gone with the Triton permanently in the table; but I have other routers for hand held use. One other thing - I have two router stations. One stand alone with the lift and one on my table saw that utilizes the fixed base of a kit. Other than being a little more tedious to adjust the height, the fixed base station works fine.

The choice is really between more power & smother operation and greater flexibility with the extra base.

[jeff vanek]

Top priority is smooth/above the table height adjustment; easy above the table bit changes. If either one really beats out the other in these two areas, that's the one I want. I am not all that concerned with power, I'm not making raised panels, and I've been using the Milwaukee 1 1/2 hp for years with no problems.

[Cyrus Brewster 7]

Top priority is smooth/above the table height adjustment; easy above the table bit changes. If either one really beats out the other in these two areas, that's the one I want. I am not all that concerned with power, I'm not making raised panels, and I've been using the Milwaukee 1 1/2 hp for years with no problems.

The pc890 can be adjusted from above the table with a handle that you can purchase separately. It will also unlock/lock the router in the base. However, I have read that when the base is locked the motor moves a little - so fine tuning needs a little bit of trial and error. The Triton seems to be smoother is this aspect.

Check out youtube to see it in action. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bl2QXw8xjSU

[David Keast]

This thread has heightened my interest in getting a new table mount router. I would really like to have the above table bit change and the height adjustment. I looked at the Freud and find it pretty pricey. The Triton is on sale at Woodcraft for $199 but when I looked at the Triton website for more details it says the input is 230 - 240Volts. It shows no option for 120V. Is this correct? I find it improbable that very many hobbyists would have a 240V hand held router (even if it is mounted in the table).

I have the Triton too, permenantly mounted in the table. It really is very good.

As someone has already commented, Triton is Australian based so like most of the world including all of europe with a bigger population than the USA, 230V is the norm. not 120V. However, surely they offer a 120v version for the USA ?

[David Keast]

Top priority is smooth/above the table height adjustment; easy above the table bit changes. If either one really beats out the other in these two areas, that's the one I want. I am not all that concerned with power, I'm not making raised panels, and I've been using the Milwaukee 1 1/2 hp for years with no problems.

I can only comment on the Triton, and that has first class adjustment and easy bit changes with automatic spindle lock when you raise the the bit to the top of its travel for access to the collet. I'm delighted with mine, the only thing I would have liked is a soft start which my Metabo hand held does have.

[Harvey Pascoe]

i have been looking into the porter cable 890 series, but have read alot of bad reviews and porter cable recalls, but these are reviews from a few years ago, have all the problems been fixed? also how does the pc890 series compare to the trition TRC001 3 1/4 hp, which wood craft has on sale for $199? i can get the pc 895 package for $233.

I had the PC 892 above table model and found it to be . . . well, it sucked. Near as I can tell the 895 is no differnt, uses the same base. The motor would jam in the housing, it did not hold the motor firmly - it would move and slip from time to time. Within two months I gave up on it and installed the motor in a JessEm which functions beautifully. I would recommend just buying the PC motor and a Mast-R-Lift. Total cost is within your budget.

[John Nesmith]

The last time I was researching table-mounted routers, I read something about the Triton that turned me. Now I can't remember exactly what it was. I THINK it had something to do with the switch, or possibly with trying to use the router with an external mounted safety switch. Does that ring any bells? Also, I may have been considering the 2 1/4 HP model at that time.

[Greg Peterson]

I have not had any issues with the 890 motor. The design of the bases are surprisingly deficient of good design and seem only to excel at inspiring regret and lack of confidence in the tool. Traits normally associated with lower tier tool names.

The fixed base will neither easily release the motor nor lock it in place with any degree of accuracy. After locking the base the depth adjustment is usually off. Getting the correct depth setting is a trial and error affair. And with the fine saw dust that collects in the channels, preventing reasonably easy removal of the motor, I am skeptical that the motor is able to be locked-in perpendicular to the table top.

As for the plunge base, it has slipped on me, which is a bit of a problem when using a flush trim bit. The base slipped down a quarter inch, lowering the guide bearing below the template. I only discovered this after the piece I was routing was damaged. I had never even considered the possibility of the plunge base slipping. Now I have serious reservations about using the plunge base for template work.

The PC 690 and 7500 are established, proven designs. Milwaukee and Dewalt are also highly regarded. Based on my experience, the PC890 should be avoided.

[jeff vanek]

i was all set to buy the 890 when i started this search.....but after all the research i've been doin, i'm slowly leaning toward the triton, the video showing how easy it is to remove bits above the table....and after gregs remarks, i'm really leaning toward the triton.....even thou he's a packers fan!!!!

[Greg Peterson]

Jeff - I'll pretend I did not notice your Packers remark. :D

I like the looks of the newest Bosch router, specifically the location of power switch in the handle and the LED lights. After my 890 experience I am just a bit gun shy buying a tool sporting a new set of features.

You can not go wrong with the tried and true routers.

[Robert Raines]

Triton 3HP best bet for dedicated table router. ( too top heavy for hand use ).

[Robert Raines]

Triton 3HP best bet for dedicated table router. ( too top heavy for hand use)

[Greg Hines, MD]

I have my 890 mounted in the router table without much trouble except for changing bits. I do that by removing the motor, as my router plate does not make it very easy to do. You could do it above the table if your plate allows it though.

[jeff vanek]

the crank on the triton to change bit heights looks so much easier and faster.....the porter cable looks like you have to turn the above the table handle alot more to get the bit to full extension .

[Rich Engelhardt]

The last time I was researching table-mounted routers, I read something about the Triton that turned me. Now I can't remember exactly what it was. I THINK it had something to do with the switch, or possibly with trying to use the router with an external mounted safety switch. Does that ring any bells? Also, I may have been considering the 2 1/4 HP model at that time.

Three/four years ago, Triton was having some financial issues and it looked like they were going to go under. I don't recall exactly which brand has had some issues with dust in the switch when mounted upside down in a table. I want to say, Bosch, but,,,,,I'm not sure.
I do recall the problems Triton was having at the time put off a fair number of people from buying one, myself included.

Happily, Triton appears to have survived whatever storm they were in & are marketing a successful machine.

The Freud 1700 I went with instead of the Triton......well.....let's just say I like mine a lot.
It's (the 1700) not setting the world on fire though with record sales.....

[John Nesmith]

Three/four years ago, Triton was having some financial issues and it looked like they were going to go under. I don't recall exactly which brand has had some issues with dust in the switch when mounted upside down in a table. I want to say, Bosch, but,,,,,I'm not sure.
I do recall the problems Triton was having at the time put off a fair number of people from buying one, myself included.

Happily, Triton appears to have survived whatever storm they were in & are marketing a successful machine.

The Freud 1700 I went with instead of the Triton......well.....let's just say I like mine a lot.
It's (the 1700) not setting the world on fire though with record sales.....

Thanks. I found a review that had a comment along the lines of what I was remembering:

"This has got to be the safest router invented with its clear plastic shroud, you cannot get your fingers near the bit and the power switch interlock makes it impossible to do an accidental start while changing a bit. This might actually prove to be an annoyance if you want to use an external switch Because you have to be able to reach the side mounted switch to turn the router on after a bit change. There is no option here. "

I think that was what I was remembering. Some sort of switch-related safety feature that did not play nice with an external switch. I wonder if that is still the case.

[jeff vanek]

i'm going to woodcraft tomorrow to pick up the triton, is the woodpeckers plastic plate ok for this heavy router or do i need the aluminum?

[Larry Browning]

I am starting my NYW router table build tomorrow. I am going to be getting a new router for the occasion. Am I correct in saying that if I get the Triton there would be no need for a separate lift system? I am also assuming that I will need to get a mounting plate. I was thinking one of the nice aluminum plates would be the way to go. Did I read somewhere that the mounting screw pattern for the Triton was the same as the Porter-Cable?

[Dave Anthony]

Correct, with the Triton you do not need a lift. There is an above table winder handle. Mine is in a cabinet, bit changes involve the following steps:
1. open door 2. Bring router collet above table with large coarse adjustment knob (fast & easy) 3. Turn off power switch on router (I use an external switch but you need to turn off the switch on the router to engage the collet lock . 4. Replace bit - needs only one wrench 5. Hold back plastic door on switch & turn on switch on router (easy to do w/one hand w/out looking, I consider this a nice safety feature). 6. Get height close w/coarse adjustment 7. Dial in height with winder mechanism. I've been very happy with this router. The one down side is the way I have mine located in the table I have to move one side of the fence to use the winder knob (see pictures). I could get around this by rotating the router, but this would make coarse adjust & power switch access more awkward. Modifying the handle to make it longer might also, work, so far it's not been a big enough hassel to bother with. I don't know if the mounting screw pattern for the Triton is the same as the Porter-Cable.

[jeff vanek]

if you plan on using an external switch, the router switch itself on the triton itself is a real PIA !!!! other then that i like it so far!!

[Larry Browning]

Is there a locking mechanism once the height is set? If so does the locking process modify the height? I have a Milwaukee that the locking mechanism will slightly change the height (which is a REAL PITA!).
Also, what is the recommended mounting plate? I think I want to go with aluminum. The one from Woodpecker looks really nice, but a bit pricy. Is it as good as it looks?

[Trevor Walsh]

I've heard bad things about the Tritons clogging when upside down, maybe some of the users can comment on that. I put a new 3 1/4 HP Milwaukee in and love it. It's got variable speed for running large bits/ acrylic etc. and 1/4" and 1/2" collets. It's been a great user.