Levelling a band saw

[Brad Knabel]

Hi All,
I asked a question last week that resulted in the purchase of a Grizzly G0566 21" band saw. Thanks for the replies! I'll get pics posted soon (I was up too late cleaning off cosmoline to get any pictures taken last night.) I'll try to follow with a review as well once I actually use the machine.

We managed to get it wrestled to an appropriate place in the shop, unfortunately my garage floor has some pretty impressive hills and valleys. The saw is stable where it's sitting - it doesn't rock. However, it's far from level. This might be a pretty basic question, but what suggestions do you all have for getting the saw levelled?

I've come up with the following ideas:
1. The saw was bolted to its pallet through 4 holes in its base. I could insert bolts through these holes to use as levellers. This is probably my preferred method. I just worry whether the steel on the base of the saw will support its entire weight on those four points. Also would this be stable enough in use?
2. Shim the saw using hardwood scraps
3. Build a sturdy platform using hardwood and plywood that takes the slope of the floor into account.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions you all might have.

[Dave Richards]

I like number 2. Shim it with scraps. You might end up moving it one day and the shimming will need to be different.

[Roy Wall]

Brad,

Man - I'm glad you made this post.......I'm doing the same thing. I have previously used my Jet !4" very little - and for just rough cuts so I didn't care much how "unlevel" it was.
Well, I put a new 3/4" 3 tpi blade on there to take a lot of work from the tablesaw and I noticed a tremendous "wobble" in the machine:eek: .

For now, I have on one shim that levels across the bandsaw, but will neet to taper this shim somewhat to "level the front to back axis". So, the quickest and easiest is the shim(s) ---- but I think I will make a "dedicated plywood platform" with levelers in the future. I imagine I'll make the footprint only about 2-3" larger that the bandaw base........

[Dave Richards]

I should have added that you might find a platform for the bandswa a good thing if you are tall and table is too low for comfort.

Then the levelling legs would be a good choice.

[Aaron Montgomery]

I would ask why your bandsaw needs to be perfectly level. I don't see how being a few degrees off level should affect the saw or the quality of the cut. As long as the saw is stable and the table is orthogonal to the blade, I would think you're good to go.

[Dennis McDonaugh]

However, it's far from level. This might be a pretty basic question, but what suggestions do you all have for getting the saw levelled?

I've come up with the following ideas:
1. The saw was bolted to its pallet through 4 holes in its base. I could insert bolts through these holes to use as levellers. This is probably my preferred method. I just worry whether the steel on the base of the saw will support its entire weight on those four points. Also would this be stable enough in use?

Brad, that's how you shim my MM16. It came with four bolts that you screw into threaded holes in the base. Its very stable.

[Jeff Sudmeier]

I would contact grizzly to find out of the 4 bolts idea is okay. I would say that it is the best option, that way it if flexible.

[Ray Thompson]

Couple of wasy, get an anti-fatigue mat slightly larger than the base and put it under the saw, it will self level.

Machine leveling pads from McMaster-Carr and others, fairly inexpensive and they will level and take any vibration out of the machine.

Ray

[Mike Stanton]

:D Why can't you just level the table of the saw if it is solid there? I did that in my shop. Mike

[Brad Knabel]

Thanks for all the responses. I think I'll shim with scraps short term and work through everyone elses suggestions once I get a little further along in the shop setup.

Aaron - the whole machine lists from left to right. If you stand back and look at the saw it just looks "wrong" I know that setting the blade perpendicular to the table and getting the fence set up correctly to account for blade drift matter a great deal more.

Along those lines there's an interesting picture on Lee Valley's web site that has bothered me. If you look at their bullseye level, the photograph shows it being used to level a drill press table. This doesn't seem to be an especially useful operation since the only thing you should care about is whether the table is 90 degrees to the bit...

Thanks for all the advice!
Brad

[Ken Robb]

Brad,

I work in the noise and vibration industry as a Sales Engineer providing mounting solutions for industry. While "Jack bolts" will work to level your bandsaw, I would recommend leveling mounts instead. You can get these at McMaster Carr or MSG. These typically provide up to 1/2 inch of leveling. Mounts should be sized for your machine. Devide the bandsaws weight by 4 and buy the pad closest to that. This Part (6167K18) from McMaster Carr should work for your application.

Ken

[Dick Parr]

I use the 4 bolt idea on my 18" Grizzly BS and it works fine. :D