Any reason not to try this?

[Rob Price]

I bought a magnetic light for my bandsaw. I was looking at the switch on the BS and it's a pretty simple switch- power in on one side, and power out to the motor on the other. Instead of trying to plug in the saw and the light, I thought I would simplify things and wire the new light to the "in" side of the switch, so when the saw is plugged in the light is on, or at least available. I thought about putting it on the "out" side but thought I would rather have power all the time for setups, etc. It's wired for 110, I can't imagine the bulb is going to draw much current as to interfere with the saw. It's a 20A circuit, it should be able to handle a saw and light bulb, right? (Note, shop lights, DC are all on their own circuits as well).

[Jerome Hanby]

It should work fine, but why not try a "dry" run to be sure. Use a power strip or an extension cord with multiple outlets and plug both in and try it out. You'll know pretty quick if there is a problem. If it works fine, then do your rewiring. If there is a convenient spot onteh bandsaw or it's base, you might want to mount an outlet wired in as you discussed for powering the lamp. Make it easier to replace it if you get a better one or pull something I would do like smacking it with a 2x4...

[Prashun Patel]

What am I missing? Why don't you want to plug yr light and yr saw both into individual outlets? If you don't want to waste an outlet, then just get a tap that splits the outlet. This will allow the most flexibility and the least wiring.

[Tom Cornish]

The current draw of a bulb won't be the issue. Potentially larger issues are modifying your tool, which may affect warranty coverage, and not being able to have your saw light on unless the saw is running.

[Ron Kellison]

Many bandsaws and drill presses have lights that tap into the primary circuit coming into the equipment. I can't comment on the exact wiring needed for your bandsaw but it should be relatively simple to figure out where to make the connection. Jerome's idea of using a power strip to test the idea is a good one!

Regards,

Ron

[Rob Price]

The main issue is that I have to pull my BS out to use it, and the power cord on the lamp is too short. Plus I like to leave my router table and BS plugged into the same outlet. Plus it just looks cleaner. Tapping in was simple. I just hooked the lamp up to the power coming in before the switch. That way it's on all the time, not just when the saw is running. the only change I had to make was to drill a hole in the side of the switch box to feed the wires in. I didn't do anything to the switch itself, other than piggy back on the power. It works great. I need to route the wire in a more permanent fashion but it works for now.

211851

[Alan Schaffter]

I did that with both bandsaw and drill press until I switched them to 220V.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/medium/P1160027.JPG

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/data/500/DP-6.JPG

[Kent A Bathurst]

The Red Green version that I use: I got a small junction box with a duplex receptacle, and mounted a magnet on the back. I made a custom-length pigtail extension cord out of the JB to get to the wall outlet. The BS and the worklight plug into it, and I have it stuck to the front of the top wheel cover. Similar to the power strip method....but I didn't think of that. If I had, I might have used that instead of the JB.

The mag-base worklight is stuck there as well. So is a tape measure with a mag superglued to the back. So is a 1" rare-earth magnet disc that holds the allen key for the blade guides. So is one of the DC remotes [but it uses adhesive backed hook-and-loop].

[Rob Price]

I like the magnet backed tape measure as well, comes in very handy. Gotta love those little magnets.