Table Saw Question

[Johnnyy Johnson]

Lets assume that I have my fence set up correctly and this question is about technic. When I go to rip a board, say for example I want to rip I “ off the side of a 8 foot board 4/4, I have trouble keeping the board completely against the fence on the out feed end. I have been very careful to hold the board against the fence all the way thru, but most of the time the board will move toward the splitter and result in a gap of about ¼” at the fence. Once out of the saw and I measure it is the correct width. The saw is a Delta contractor with a Besym. Fence. What am I missing with technic? I’ve even tried a feather board on the in feed end. If I am ripping a 3 foot board, I dont seem to have this problem.

Thanks
JJ

[Jerome Hanby]

Keeping flush on the infeed side is definitely important. Often the outfeed side of the fence will be towed out a small amount to avoid getting in a bind between the fence and blade. Being a little out is much better than being a little in!

[scott spencer]

The blade and fence alignment need to be really close. It's also important that the splitter is aligned with the blade. To get good cuts, the board needs to be flat and have a straight reference edge against the fence.

[Brad Sperr]

1/4" sounds like a large gap if the fence and splitter are properly aligned with the blade. I have my fence towed out around .005" from the back to the blade to keep it from binding, and the splitter still keeps the workpiece pretty well pinned to the fence when I feed it through. Maybe double check the alignment or that your workpiece isn't bowed.

[Richard Wolf]

I have noticed that this is a common problem that you speak about. I suspect that the extra resistance of the blade on the left side of your board may cause some torque to the left. Paying attention and using two push blocks is a great help. Try waxing your tables, most people never realize how much a can of butchers wax can make life in your shop much easier.

[Garrett Ellis]

Also make sure the edge you are running along the fence is truly a straight (jointed) edge. If your reference edge (the edge you run along the fence) is not straight, you'll be chasing this problem forever.

+1 for featherboard also. They do not have to put extreme pressure on the board, just enough to hold it against the fence.

[Bill White]

I have my fence set for no more than 1/32" relief on the outfeed side of the blade. Keeps from having any binding on the back side of the blade. The splitter is set even with the right side of the blade (important). I use Board Buddies for long rips. Look 'em up.
You didn't say what rip blade you're usin'. This can make a difference.
Bill

[Joseph Tarantino]

I have my fence set for no more than 1/32" relief on the outfeed side of the blade. Keeps from having any binding on the back side of the blade. The splitter is set even with the right side of the blade (important). I use Board Buddies for long rips. Look 'em up.
You didn't say what rip blade you're usin'. This can make a difference.
Bill

i often considered using BBs, but could never see how to complete feeding stock through a cut past the BB on the infeed side of the blade. how's it done?

[Joseph Tarantino]

Lets assume that I have my fence set up correctly and this question is about technic. When I go to rip a board, say for example I want to rip I “ off the side of a 8 foot board 4/4, I have trouble keeping the board completely against the fence on the out feed end. I have been very careful to hold the board against the fence all the way thru, but most of the time the board will move toward the splitter and result in a gap of about ¼” at the fence. Once out of the saw and I measure it is the correct width. The saw is a Delta contractor with a Besym. Fence. What am I missing with technic? I’ve even tried a feather board on the in feed end. If I am ripping a 3 foot board, I dont seem to have this problem.

Thanks
JJ

i used to have that problem. my fence is dead on parallel to the blade on both of my saws. featherboards helped but i accidently modified my technique quite by accident and it really helps. at the end of the rip, when approaching the last 6 " of the rip, i apply a little additional pressure to the workpiece and help it move "briskly" through the end of the cut and past the blade. no more "torquing" either way at the end of the rip.

[Dale Cruea]

I have the same saw and I think my fence is the same. When this happens to me I find that the out feed roller is not parallel to the table top. People like to come in my shop and play with my out feed roller. My out feed roller is one 12" roller and it pulls the board away from the rip fence if not parallel with the table top.
I also have to have my splitter adjusted to right side of my blade. This helps a great deal even without a feather board.

[Floyd Mah]

Regarding the Board Buddies, use them on the out-feed side of the blade. That way, you have an unobstructed path to push the work past the blade. Cant them so that the distal edge of the rubber wheel is slightly closer to the fence. This causes the BB's to drive the work into and against the fence. If you want to have something on the infeed side, use a feather board. I made one using those switchable magnets (can't remember the brand name) so that I can position them easily. I've found that properly adjusted BB's will hold the wood very tightly, so that even relaxing your grip on the wood (not recommended) won't allow the wood to drift from the vibration of the saw. In addition, I took the wheels off the BB's so that I could make my own jig to mount them to the Unifence (which doesn't normally allow you to mount stuff easily). Just remounted them on a similar diameter shaft. Anyway, this my preferred setup when ripping long pieces of wood.

[Mark Engel]

Lets assume that I have my fence set up correctly and this question is about technic. When I go to rip a board, say for example I want to rip I “ off the side of a 8 foot board 4/4, I have trouble keeping the board completely against the fence on the out feed end. I have been very careful to hold the board against the fence all the way thru, but most of the time the board will move toward the splitter and result in a gap of about ¼” at the fence. Once out of the saw and I measure it is the correct width. The saw is a Delta contractor with a Besym. Fence. What am I missing with technic? I’ve even tried a feather board on the in feed end. If I am ripping a 3 foot board, I dont seem to have this problem.

Thanks
JJ

I'm confused.

You say the board is the correct width after the cut. What is it that you are trying to fix?

Getting the setup right is important. But getting the result right is all that really matters. Right/

[Chris Parks]

After the cut is started and the board has covered the length of the blade the out feed becomes redundant as the blade will dictate the line of the cut. European saws commonly only use a fence which covers about 1/3 of the blade having no out feed support at all. The reason is that the chance of kick back is reduced substantially if not totally eliminated as there is no fence to jam the workpiece.

[Bobby O'Neal]

Is it not also true that with a long rip (8'), you are relieving alot of stresses in the board as you cut? Thereby causing movement before you are even done with the rip? I suppose if you are at your correct width by the end that may be a non factor.

[Johnnyy Johnson]

Thanks for all the replys. Next week I have to rip some hickory and I will put some of the suggestions to use. Someone asked about the blade. It's a standard Freud glue rip.

[Rich Engelhardt]

After the cut is started and the board has covered the length of the blade the out feed becomes redundant as the blade will dictate the line of the cut. European saws commonly only use a fence which covers about 1/3 of the blade having no out feed support at all. The reason is that the chance of kick back is reduced substantially if not totally eliminated as there is no fence to jam the workpiece
Good info.
I have a sacrificial "saddle type" fence made of 1/2" MDF that I can slide up so it's positioned about 1/3 on the blade.
I've experienced a little of what the OP posted myself from time to time.

I've also had the blade "tick" the end of a cut - which that should also eliminate right?

[glenn bradley]

The blade and fence alignment need to be really close. It's also important that the splitter is aligned with the blade. To get good cuts, the board needs to be flat and have a straight reference edge against the fence.

Scott hit on what people having trouble on the tablesaw frequently neglect. The tablesaw (at least in making fine furniture) is for making extremely precise straight cuts. If the surface against the fence and the surface against the table have not been jointed flat and perpendicular, there will be path issues at best, kickback at worst. Don't be a statistic, rip irregular lumber on the bandsaw. :)