Waste Blocks

[Dwight McNutt]

How is the best way to glue a waste block to a piece of wood? What Glue? Paper between the two pieces of wood? Does wood have to be perfectly flat to glue together? I know a lot of questions, but a lot of confusion here.:confused:

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I don't think there's a "right" answer to this one. Many ways, CA, titebond, elmers, Gorilla, even hot glue gun. CA is fast, Titebond has to set. I usually wait overnight. Hot glue gun is fast too. I personally go with Titebond, since I like teh security that glue provides. I don't seem to trust CA and hot glue. Find what you're comfortable with.
The only answer I know is no, the wood has to be concave, not flat, so you get a nice bond. If it's any bit convex (not quite flat) you won't get a good a bond. That's the main reason for using a hot glue gun. Lots of room for error.

[Marty Eargle]

Hot glue is as fast, cheap, and as strong as you'd ever need it to be. I always concave my waste block a bit, get my glue nice and bubbling hot, and press them firm together for about ten seconds. Let it set up for a minute or two and you're good to go. I've used it probably over a hundred times and I've never had the glue come apart. I'm too stingy with my CA glue and not patient enough for Titebond...and don't trust either as much as hot glue.

[Jon McElwain]

I've been using hot glue for a long time. I usually warm the wood prior to application. Often times, the glue is strong enough to peel a few bits of wood from the waste block.

[Wally Dickerman]

I've been using waste blocks for years. I also have my students use them in my beginners bowl classes. I want the new turner to know that he/she can use the faceplate that came with the lathe instead of having to buy an expensive chuck. You can however, cut a tenon on the waste block and use a chuck.

There are some "musts" in using a waste block. You're making a glue joint so both surfaces must be flat and true. I think that most waste block failures are because not enough glue was used. I want to see squeezout from the glue joint. I usually use med. CA glue because I can immediately mount the piece on the lathe. Clamping isn't necessary. Just firm hand pressure. If time isn't a factor, Titebond glue works very well.

Do not use paper in the joint. Paper has been used by some in the past to make the joint weaker so that the block can be wedged off. You don't want a weak joint. Do not use plywood as a waste block. It can separate. Do not use MDF as a waste block. It's too weak and will fail.

My choice of wood for a waste block is alder. Alder almost never warps so it has a flat surface. It's a soft wood so it's easy to part off. Poplar or pine also work well. Hard woods are tougher to part off so I don't recommend them.

To remove the waste block, I part it off along the glue line so that no glue remains on the vessel.

[John Keeton]

When I first started turning, I used CA - with a lot of failures. I no longer will use CA for anything other than a crack repair, or filling a small flaw. Most of the time, I use 5 minute epoxy, but I much prefer Titebond if I have the time for it to set. Generally, if I am going to begin a turning with the tailstock up, I can turn on a Titebond block after just a few hours. I won't remove the tailstock until it sets overnight, however. The clamp time on Titebond is 30 minutes, with full strength overnight, and it is stronger than the wood. I try to get my surfaces flat, checking them with a metal straight edge, and I use the tailstock for clamping pressure.

I have never used hot glue, but I would imagine it would work fine for the purpose.

[Jamie Donaldson]

Here in mid USA we have poplar and soft maple for good glue blocks, and as Wally said, definitely not plywood or MDF, and don't ask how I learned that!

[Bernie Weishapl]

Jamie is right and don't ask me either how I know.:mad: I use Titebond II for my glue blocks. It was probably my fault but had two glue blocks let loose when using hot glue.

[David DeCristoforo]

I would not trust CA glue on a bet. Of course I am "CA challenged" and the only thing I have ever successfully glued with it is myself (usually to a piece of whatever i am trying to bond). I have used paper between two halves of a spindle when I needed a "plant on" piece for a pilaster or something. It's great for things like that. But between a bowl and a waste block? Not! Hot melt is good for smaller stuff but not a strong enough bond for bigger pieces. Being "old school" I always use yellow glue even though I'm impatient and hate waiting for the glue to set.

PS Don't ask Jamie or Bernie why you should not use plywood or MDF. But you can ask me. It will seperate at the slightest provocation resulting in the dreaded "flying turning blank" syndrome.

[Wally Dickerman]

I would not trust CA glue on a bet. Of course I am "CA challenged" and the only thing I have ever successfully glued with it is myself (usually to a piece of whatever i am trying to bond). I have used paper between two halves of a spindle when I needed a "plant on" piece for a pilaster or something. It's great for things like that. But between a bowl and a waste block? Not! Hot melt is good for smaller stuff but not a strong enough bond for bigger pieces. Being "old school" I always use yellow glue even though I'm impatient and hate waiting for the glue to set.

PS Don't ask Jamie or Bernie why you should not use plywood or MDF. But you can ask me. It will seperate at the slightest provocation resulting in the dreaded "flying turning blank" syndrome.

David if you'd spend a few extra pennies and get quality CA your problems might go away.

During the past 25 or so years I and my students have used CA on many hundreds of bowls with nary a problem. Well, on occassion a student doesn't get enough glue on and does have a problem. But one such experience is usually enough.

However, since you're CA challenged then yellow glue will do the job. In classes we don't have the time to use anything but CA. But it does do the job very well.

[Thom Sturgill]

I'm CA challenged too, but I think part of it is the Florida heat. Our club president uses it frequently but has a fridge in his shop and keeps his CA there when not using it. CA breaks down with heat and the shelf life drops to next to nothing. Now that I'm retired, we are looking for a house with a shop (bid on a 20x40 pole barn + 3 br house) and I will have a cooler in the shop!!

I use titebond and whatever cutoffs from previous project come to hand - they already fit my chucks!!