What buffing compounds should I use on my new Don Pencil rig???

[Jack Gaskins]

My new Don Pencil buffing system arrived and I was wondering what compounds to use on the wheels and bowl buffs. I sand my bowls up to 600 and coat them with 3 coats of Watco. I have read that most use the tripoli and WD but dont use the wax. Shoudl I just use the Tripoli and WD or are there other compounds I could use. Only looking for a satin sheen. Also. do I charge the wheels right away or do I need to spin the wheels to get the fuzz out of them first?

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

Jack,
The biffing system will come with directions about de-fuzzing the wheels prior to using them. Be sure to wear face protection or be ready to breathe a lot of lint. They suggest holding sandpaper on a small board and holding that against the new wheel.
As for the compounds, I use the red followed by the white. Don't mix compounds on the same wheel. Lots of folks don't use the wax that comes with the Bealle system and use Renaissance Wax in it's place. It's great wax and does not allow fingerprints. Apply the wax by hand then buff it off. Again, if you use the wax wheel for one type wax, don't use it after another.
faust

[Jack Gaskins]

I read that you dont use the white diamond with open grain wood, so what do you use on open grain wood?

[Bernie Weishapl]

Jack I use Tripoli and WD but just use the tripoli on open grain wood. The wax wheel just get used with Ren wax.

[Thomas Canfield]

Jack,

I picked up a tip form Elmer Adams in Hawaii several years ago. He buffed with Tripoli before applying the first coat of wipe on/off finish, and before applying each following coats. He made a special brew of 4 parts Danish Oil and 1 part Polyurethane Varnish, and used the Deft brand which I cannot find here. I make a similar brew and it does require aobut 4 or 5 coats but builds up but it does have a nice luster. I do nto use the White Diamond, but it would produce a higher sheen. Elmer also recommended the Renainance wax because of working better against fingerprints. Give it a try. Just buffing with Tripoli after sanding to 400 really improves the surface.

[Jack Gaskins]

So besides Tripoli, WD and Wax, there pretty much isnt anything else to buff with?

[Clint Baxter]

Jack,

I picked up a tip form Elmer Adams in Hawaii several years ago. He buffed with Tripoli before applying the first coat of wipe on/off finish, and before applying each following coats. He made a special brew of 4 parts Danish Oil and 1 part Polyurethane Varnish, and used the Deft brand which I cannot find here. I make a similar brew and it does require aobut 4 or 5 coats but builds up but it does have a nice luster. I do nto use the White Diamond, but it would produce a higher sheen. Elmer also recommended the Renainance wax because of working better against fingerprints. Give it a try. Just buffing with Tripoli after sanding to 400 really improves the surface.

I greatly prefer using the Deftoil Danish Oil finish myself but am unable to get it locally. You can find it however online at many retailers. Do a search for "Deft Danish Oil" or Deftoil and you will find plenty of sources. When I've used it, I seem to get much less bleedback than from using the Watco brand. I pretty much use the natural finish for most projects.

Clint

[Edward Bartimmo]

Another alternative to using wax as the final coat is the new "Plastic Polish" items like Don Pencil sells. I believe it is equivalent of automotive car polish, and not just the stuff you buy at the store. It is a much more durable coating than wax and doesn't mar when handled. You use a flannel wheel to apply.

For what is is worth on Buffing before applying finish. It is one thing to sand (dry or wet) to ultra fine finish (+800 grit up into the 1000's). However, with buffing compounds the concern is the medium that the compound is suspended in...usually some sort of wax. If you buff before finishing you way inadvertently seal the wood and reduce the wood's absorption of your finish. Some finishes will adhere and cure on any surface...so may or may not be an issue depending on what you are using.

[Jack Gaskins]

Another alternative to using wax as the final coat is the new "Plastic Polish" items like Don Pencil sells. I believe it is equivalent of automotive car polish, and not just the stuff you buy at the store. It is a much more durable coating than wax and doesn't mar when handled. You use a flannel wheel to apply.

For what is is worth on Buffing before applying finish. It is one thing to sand (dry or wet) to ultra fine finish (+800 grit up into the 1000's). However, with buffing compounds the concern is the medium that the compound is suspended in...usually some sort of wax. If you buff before finishing you way inadvertently seal the wood and reduce the wood's absorption of your finish. Some finishes will adhere and cure on any surface...so may or may not be an issue depending on what you are using.

I only apply my finish after sanding anyway just so I can see all the scratches. Might have to order some of the PL.

[Jack Gaskins]

What do you mean by bleedback? I started out on Watco and just havent bought anything else since I have only been going at this for 2 years. I still havent gotten the dang sanding down yet. Been power sanding and I still see scratches after 400. It seems like sanding just takes to long just to find scratches after you shine up your bowl.