Hanging cabinets into metal studs question?

[Craig D Peltier]

I havent had to do this before so I dont know about the options for the screws. Can someone send me in the right direction please? Not sure if theres color choices but its going into maple clearcoated. No freehanging uppers just uppers that sit in top of lowers.

[Bill White]

McMasters has the screws ya need. Look up McMasters and Carr.
Bill

[Jamie Buxton]

With no uppers, you can use almost any screws. You're only trying to make sure the cabinet doesn't fall over, not trying to hold it up. You can get screws intended for going into metal studs. They have self-drilling tips, and fairly fine threads. I get them at Home Depot. AFAIK, they only come silver-colored flathead. If you want colored screws, like you might use for hanging cabinets on wood studs, you can get away with using the same screws in metal studs. You just have to drill a pilot hole through the stud before you run the screw in.

[phil harold]

if you are hanging upper cabinets with light gauge metal studs I wood recommend blocking behind the sheetrock if you want them to stay on the wall...

[Jim Becker]

if you are hanging upper cabinets with light gauge metal studs I wood recommend blocking behind the sheetrock if you want them to stay on the wall...

Agree, or use French Cleats that are securely bolted to the metal studs either directly if you have access to the back or via expanding anchors in drilled holes.

[Craig D Peltier]

Thanks for the replies. Much appreciate!

[Peter Quinn]

Is this the Creek, or the twilight zone today? No one has yet mentioned McFeelys? There should be an auto script that posts the link to McFeelys anytime a question gets asked about speciality screws. It is there business after all. Mostly I though of them because their latest catalogue happens to have landed on my desk this week.


http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/0823-BPD-V/8-x-2-38quot-Steel-Stud-Cabinet-Hanging-Screws

[Jamie Buxton]

Is this the Creek, or the twilight zone today? No one has yet mentioned McFeelys? There should be an auto script that posts the link to McFeelys anytime a question gets asked about speciality screws. It is there business after all. Mostly I though of them because their latest catalogue happens to have landed on my desk this week.


http://www.mcfeelys.com/product/0823-BPD-V/8-x-2-38quot-Steel-Stud-Cabinet-Hanging-Screws

Yep, those are the ones I mentioned above. HD has them at a lower price, particularly when you add in handling & shipping. HD also has them in several lengths.

[Greg Portland]

Yep, those are the ones I mentioned above. HD has them at a lower price, particularly when you add in handling & shipping. HD also has them in several lengths.Jamie, are they the same quality? I've had problems with HD screws in the past...

[Jamie Buxton]

Jamie, are they the same quality? I've had problems with HD screws in the past...

HD sells so much stuff that some can be good and some can be...well... not so good. Those steel stud screws have been fine for me. Another really good screw line HD sells is the Deck Mate wood screws. They're steel with a colored coating -- kinda maple colored, or kinda redwood-colored. They're intended for deck screws, but work even better indoors. The head is a combo head that accepts Phillips or square-drive tips, or the combo tip that's packed with the screws. I use them for furniture.

[Jim Matthews]

+1 on McFeely's for fasteners. Unless you're buying Maze nails, the BORG stores are selling questionable quality based on price alone.

Here's what I would recommend, with some admonitions below. The Z-clip (http://www.monarchmetal.com/pages/panelclip.html) abbreviated cleat system. They're forgiving for first time users and inexpensive.
*****

Steel wall systems behave differently than traditional wood frames when additional fasteners and loads are attached. If the channels are all open in the same direction, hanging a load can induce racking.
This can manifest as cabinet doors that won't stay closed, and bowed sheetrock.

More importantly, steel framing channels (http://www.steelframing.org/PDF/SFA_Trades_Guide_11-08.pdf) were intended to allow power and plumbing through existing perforations in the individual channels.
If you don't know where the power wiring (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/FLUKE-Non-Contact-Voltage-Detector-1DGY1)is routed, cut an access hole behind where you intend to hang the cabinet to see what's running through the uprights.

Particularly pay attention if you have a floor above the run you're using, and around entry ways.
I've seen some "creative" routing where things get crowded.

A little drywall patch compared to some of the messier alternatives is cheap insurance.
DAMHIKT

[phil harold]

HOLD ON !!!

The screws by McFeely's are "designed for use with 14-20 gauge steel studs" most metal framing is done with 25 or 22 gauge

Those screws are no different then the screws you can buy at the drywall supply house.

When I install cabinets on metal framed walls I block the wall with 2x4 notched to fit the lip of the metal stud

If the wall is already sheetrocked I cut the rock out behind where the cabinet will go and install 2x4 blocking with glue and screws the patch the sheet rock.

The last thing you want is a cabinet to fall off the wall and I wont trust self taping screws in 20 gauge studs
DAMHIKT

[John Toigo]

Phil is correct about blocking. 22 & 25 ga studs are not designed to hold attached loads. Most drywall supply houses also sell 18ga metal in 6" or 8" wide strips which is screwed across the studs for blocking. Same as Phil's system - just an alternative method.