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View Full Version : danish oil, gel varnish, or clear poly?



Thomas McQueen
10-29-2011, 11:06 PM
Can anyone recommend a finish for this white oak coffee table I've been working on? The wood is currently unfinished and unstained. I want to put something protective on it to protect against spills, dirt, and minor scratches. It is a very rustic piece, so I'd like the finish to be as flat as possible, and I'd prefer to keep the color as is.

Is there a finish that will do all of that? I've had the following three recommended to me thus far:
1. Danish oil (although it won't provide much protection against water spills, and will stain the table a darker color)
2. Gel Varnish (protection will be better, won't stain or yellow the table)
3. Clear Poly finish (protection is best, won't stain or yellow, but will be glossy)

If I went with the poly, I've heard there are two options: Let the flattening agents in the Poly can settle, pour out some of the clear poly, and stir the more concentrated well. Second option is to wet sand with good steel wool.

I'd welcome any thoughts or suggestions.

Howard Acheson
10-30-2011, 1:33 PM
All three of your considerations contain linseed oil. It's the linseed oil that adds an amber cast to the wood and also makes the wood slightly darker. The amber color of linseed oil is also however the component that highlights and "pops" the grain.

If you want to maintain the look and the feel of the wood, an oil/varnish like Watco is a good choice. If you want somewhat more protection, make your own. Mix equal parts of your favorite varnish or poly varnish, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. Apply and let set for 15-30 minutes. Then wipe dry. You can expect bleed back from the first coat with a wood like white oak. Return every 15-20 minutes and again wipe the bleed back off. When it is no longer bleeding back, let it fully dry 12-24 hours. Then apply a second application using the same process. Let this coat dry 4-5 days before subjecting it to any abuse. The higher varnish content of a home made oil/varnish mixture will give you quite a bit more protection from moisture and water. However, any nice surface deserves protection from hot and cold plates and glasses. Use trivets, coasters and/or place mats to maintain long term appearance.

Bill White
10-30-2011, 2:02 PM
If ya don't want gloss, why not just use a satin water based poly? I use a Modern Masters semigloss rubbed out with a woven pad. The water based product will not yellow, and the urethane will protect well. Apply three brush coats ( if ya brush ), let it cure, then rub down to the sheen you want.
Bill

Thomas McQueen
11-01-2011, 12:08 PM
All three of your considerations contain linseed oil. It's the linseed oil that adds an amber cast to the wood and also makes the wood slightly darker. The amber color of linseed oil is also however the component that highlights and "pops" the grain.

If you want to maintain the look and the feel of the wood, an oil/varnish like Watco is a good choice. If you want somewhat more protection, make your own. Mix equal parts of your favorite varnish or poly varnish, boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits. Apply and let set for 15-30 minutes. Then wipe dry. You can expect bleed back from the first coat with a wood like white oak. Return every 15-20 minutes and again wipe the bleed back off. When it is no longer bleeding back, let it fully dry 12-24 hours. Then apply a second application using the same process. Let this coat dry 4-5 days before subjecting it to any abuse. The higher varnish content of a home made oil/varnish mixture will give you quite a bit more protection from moisture and water. However, any nice surface deserves protection from hot and cold plates and glasses. Use trivets, coasters and/or place mats to maintain long term appearance.


Thanks Howard. I didn't realize the gel varnish had linseed oil in it.

Thomas McQueen
11-01-2011, 12:14 PM
Bill - I agree with you that satin poly rubbed out with steel wool is probably the best. I was hesitant to use the water based because I had read somewhere that with white oak, it can be difficult to achieve a consistent satin look given the knots in the wood. Plus I don't have a sprayer. But I think I'd rather take my chances with the poly than realize I don't love the amber color of the linseed oil. Thanks for your response.

Scott Holmes
11-01-2011, 4:50 PM
Looking at this table I'm going to ask one question that may change everyones recommendation...

Is this table going to live outside?

Thomas McQueen
11-01-2011, 6:13 PM
Looking at this table I'm going to ask one question that may change everyones recommendation...

Is this table going to live outside?

No it will be inside coffee table. Picture was taken before it transport.