6 Axis HF Maple and Cherry.

[Nate Davey]

Here is the next attempt at my multi axis HF attempt. I did a few things differently this time. I made my billet round before starting the multi axis work. Sure made it a lot quicker and easier with less tear out. I apologize for the poor pics, you can't even tell the body is facetted. I sanded in the curve this time to help with the flow and tried something a little different with the base, though I think it looks way too heavy. I also borrowed the finial from the original. It's not glued together yet or final finished. Candid criticism appreciated. Thanks for looking.

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[Marty Eargle]

I want to say that the maple and the cherry don't really fit well together color-wise...but I think that's because there is just way too much base. With how bulky it is, the flow from the vessel is a little odd looking to me.

Though I do think the piece has a lot of potential and surely looks better in person, I just feel it's a bit out of proportion. Thanks for sharing...I've been trying to get up the nerve to try some multi-axis turnings.

[charlie knighton]

coming along, enjoy

[Sid Matheny]

How about a pic from the top!

Sid

[Ron Bontz]

Sorry for my ignorance. What is multi axis turning?

[charlie knighton]

What is multi axis turning?

Ron, a multi axis turning is not exactly round anymore. if you put a piece of wood between centers and turn it, it becomes round. that is the axis from the headstock spindle to the tailstock center. it you reposition the tailstock center say i inch, turn the wood again, you would have 2 axis turning. if you again move the tailstock center/or the headstock center, and turn it you have another axis. the hf is basically a spindle form and lends itself somewhat to multi-axis turning. my Kokopelli series is turned outboard and multi-axis but it is not spindle turning but more faceplate turning, not exactly a bowl turning. hope that helps

[Steve Schlumpf]

Nate - I can just barely make out some of the facets and they look pretty cool! Only thing I can think of to help display the off-center portion of your work is to play around with adding some shadows while taking photos.

Looking forward to your next turning!

[Nate Davey]

Sid,

Here is a top view for you.

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The original pics were pretty bad, he is one with better lighting, except now I see the finial isn't sitting right....:mad: I need to make a new one for this anyways.
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Ron, Charlie summed it up pretty well. There is a video on the Woodworkers Channel under the AAW tab that shows a fella doing one.

Steve, unfortunately while sanding, I sanded away the defined edges of the facet, will have to work on that for the next one...if there is a next one.

Thanks all for looking.

[Marty Eargle]

A little trick that might help, if you back your sandpaper with something firm like a piece of hard cardboard, it will help you prevent rounding over edges. I use it when sanding natural edges so I don't hit the low spots more than I want to.

[Nate Davey]

Marty, to add a level of difficulty to the project, the "facets" are slightly convex. Leaving a smooth, finished surface with the chisels is probably the only way to really maintain the edges.

[Ron Bontz]

Thanks. I could not see the different facets initially. The top pic. was worth a thousand words. Did you shift the center on just one end or both?

[Nate Davey]

Ron I shifted the centers on both ends and offset one end by one position

[Thom Sturgill]

Nate, I agree with Marty. Use a sanding block - I have several cork lined blocks and hard rubber blocks that I use. Also I think it would look better with NO base and a smaller finial. If the finial is about half the height of the body you would be using an approximation of the golden triangle.

[Faust M. Ruggiero]

The cherry you used in that piece has amazing color. Not sure if you have more but if you do, let be the star in your next turning.
faust

[Rick Markham]

Cool effect, the photo from the top, really shows the shape. It looks like you've got some experimenting to do. What's the wall thickness like. I would try elongating the form (tall and skinny, with a high shoulder, and a small base) just to see what it does. I have a feeling it would make the effect you have going on more dramatic, it should change the shape of the plane of each side, which (I would think) would make it more obvious to the eye.

[Nate Davey]

Faust, that cherry has been dry for at least 25 years, maybe more. I got a boat load of it from my saw mill guy. Unfortunately, its 8/4 stock, so I've made a couple square plates and shallow bowls and such but nothing really big.

Rick, great idea, I think that will be my next experiment. The walls at the center of the flats are about 1/4'ish, and 1/4 at the top and bottom. The problem I see with this one is the facets are so short you can't see the twist.

[Rick Markham]

Nate, I bet if you elongate the form and make it taper to a smaller base it will accentuate the twist and the facets. I'm also in the camp that sanding with a block will help keep the lines of the changes crisp and sharp.

What chuck are you using to do this off axis stuff. I've looked at a few but have never been sold on any particular one.

[Nate Davey]

Rick,

I do it between centers. 4 prong dead center in the head stock, Jet factory live center in the tail stock. As to the tapered base, I'm wondering if I make the base layout circle larger than the top lay out circle if I can get the tapered look. Thankfully, I have a bunch of Maple to practice on. BTW, I'm still hollowing with my homemade Ellsworth style boring bars, starting to build my articulated system this week.