OT Need an advise on my door/threashold problem

[Alex Kuzn]

Guys,

I need an advise on fixing threshold area on a door from a bedroom to a backyard deck. It's all started with my threshold been too springy so I decided to put a screw in the middle to so it'll be securely attached to a board under it and won't buckle up and spring.
Turned out that there was no solid wood under it for a screw to grab on. I ended up removing a threshold and a board next to it.
Looks like rain was getting under the threshold and rotted the wood over the years. I have scraped all the dry rot wood and ended up with some pretty big holes.

What is the best way to fix this and make sure rain does not get there anymore?
Any advise is appreciated.
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More pictures:
https://picasaweb.google.com/alexkuzn/FixingThreshhold?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCML308yPqIXlHw&feat=directlink

Thanks,
Alex

[ray hampton]

do you have storm door at this entry ? which direction do the wind/rain comes from ? if the rain fall straight down then a sheet metal shield over the door might help

[johnny means]

I think your deck is to high. I haven't built a deck in years and never built that many to start, but I seem to remember being told that a exterior threshold should be a drop off. It should be built in such a way that any possible run off hits a vertical surface and doesn't run into the house. Without same major changes that deck is always going to push water into that area. Also, I'm sure the same damage is happening beneath the casing and jambs.

The fix for the floor is fairly simple. Cut out the rot and screw a backing board underneath the floor to cover the holes. Then build up the holes with blocks to make them level and reinstall the flooring.

Your real problem is that deck and the junction between it and the house. I would be looking for a way to lower the deck a couple off inches. Or a way to keep the deck dry.

[Caspar Hauser]

You need pan flashing.

[Rich Engelhardt]

You need pan flashing.
Thank you!
I couldn't remember the name

+1 - Casper has it. You need a pan flashing.
.

[phil harold]

you need to to get under the floor and put in some treated wood, to beef up the rim joist and sill
existing wood needs wood preservative applied
flashing needs to be installed between the deck and house this flashing needs to be installed under the pan flashing (www.jamsill.com)

I dont know where you are located; state, prevailing winds, on the water, north east west south of house...

but from the looks of it the deck need to be lower, a new adjutsable threshold or new door and frame would make the best repair


and never put a fastener in the threshold its just going to make things worse in time

[Rob Fisher]

you need to to get under the floor and put in some treated wood, to beef up the rim joist and sill
existing wood needs wood preservative applied
flashing needs to be installed between the deck and house this flashing needs to be installed under the pan flashing (www.jamsill.com (http://www.jamsill.com))

I dont know where you are located; state, prevailing winds, on the water, north east west south of house...

but from the looks of it the deck need to be lower, a new adjutsable threshold or new door and frame would make the best repair


and never put a fastener in the threshold its just going to make things worse in time

This is all great advice. I will reiterate that the problem lies with the lack of flashing, between the deck and house, and pan flashing.

A proper fix probably involves removing exterior door trim, maybe removing the entire door and jamb depending on rot damage, removing deck boards for access, and access to the underside of the rotted subfloor boards. It may sound like a lot but if you don't get access to install the proper flashing in there, the rest of the fix really doesn't matter. Also getting access to all sides will give you a clear picture of the extent of the rot damage. There could be extensive rot damage or there could be no more rot damage than you have already found, without opening it up further you will not know. It is clear that you are getting water in beyond the interior wall face of the wall. The water marks on the subfloor indicate this.

This seems to me like it could get rather involved quickly. If it is beyond your skills I would definitely recommend getting a professional.

[Brad Sperr]

you need to to get under the floor and put in some treated wood, to beef up the rim joist and sill
existing wood needs wood preservative applied
flashing needs to be installed between the deck and house this flashing needs to be installed under the pan flashing (www.jamsill.com (http://www.jamsill.com))

I dont know where you are located; state, prevailing winds, on the water, north east west south of house...

but from the looks of it the deck need to be lower, a new adjutsable threshold or new door and frame would make the best repair


and never put a fastener in the threshold its just going to make things worse in time

+1 to this advice. The best repair would involve removing the door and frame, repairing your subfloor, flashing the threshold and jambs up to around 12" high with a butyl flashing tape, and installing a presloped pan flashing for the door when you put it back in. I haven't used the jamsill that Phil links to, but I've use SureSill (http://suresill.com/home.html), which you can get at Home Depot online, and it works really well.

[phil harold]

+1 to this advice. The best repair would involve removing the door and frame, repairing your subfloor, flashing the threshold and jambs up to around 12" high with a butyl flashing tape, and installing a presloped pan flashing for the door when you put it back in. I haven't used the jamsill that Phil links to, but I've use SureSill (http://suresill.com/home.html), which you can get at Home Depot online, and it works really well.

Any pan flashing will be better than none
I have used suresill, good product
you can make them out of butyl flashing tape and/or metal

as a pro, I would bid a minimum of 2 days of labor to do the job right

bandaid job would be a case of caulk

[joe milana]

bandaid job would be a case of caulk

Beyond this approach, I don't see how to properly repair this without removing the entire door frame, decking, and ledger. I see this all the time.