Your thoughts on bench saw selection

[Bill Fleming]

I would like to add a saw for use at the bench. Primarily for sawing drawer parts as well as parts for trays and small boxes. This saw would also be used to cut the shoulders of tenons. I haven't decided on the brand as yet but want it to be a good quality saw. But for purposes of comparison I am looking at the following as representative:

1) LN Carcass saw, vs

2) LN 14" Crosscut Tenon saw

The tenon saw seems more flexible longterm (really trying not to collect more saws than I will really use) - deeper working depth (although can't imagine needed that depth for any tenon shoulders I would cut).

Also Carcass saw cheaper at least the LN version.

Anyway, any comments on a good bench saw for cabinet size drawers and components and for smaller items?

Thx Bill

[Zach Dillinger]

Bill,

I have numerous backsaws, but one I reach for frequently for larger parts is the Wenzloff half-back saw. I got mine from Lee Valley (http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=57151&cat=1,42884,57152). It works well, and is very versatile. Since you stated that you'd like to keep the number of saws to a minimum, this one might do double duty for you.

Z

[Chris Griggs]

14" - You'll really appreciate the longer plate if you plan to use it to saw pieces to final length. Although, I should ad, I have long arms and prefer longer plates in general.

[Jim Koepke]

+1 on the longer plate.

I bought an old Disston back saw at 16" that is possibly my most used back saw for cutting stock on the bench. It is filed crosscut. I am on the lookout for another just like it to file rip.

Often one thinks they will never cut large joinery, but then one day you find your self making a saw bench with 8/4 lumber or making an animal shed with 2X material.

jtk

[Jim Matthews]

All good choices, one more into the fray -

The Bad Axe "Jack" (http://www.badaxetoolworks.com/16-inch-large-tenon-back-saw.html) saw at $240.
It's expensive.

It's worth every penny.

[Mark Baldwin III]

I like the Lee Valley back saws. I have the set of three DT saws and both of the tenon saws. Very nice.
edit...I see you're in my area, I could let you test drive the LV's if you want.

[Peter Pedisich]

Bill,

The saw I reach for most of all, by a good margin, is my Bad Axe 14" Sash saw hybrid cut. I'm only 2 years into Hand tools after over 10+ with power tools and it never fails to cut straight and fast. It has a nice weight (it's not light!) and its super sharp. It is one of those purchases that at first it seems like a lot of money and a long wait, but it has grown on me with each use so that now I think it was one of my wisest purchases and one of the best values I've got.
Where some other saws may wander, this thing tracks like a diesel locomotive.

Pete

[Bruno Frontera dela Cruz]

There is a 14" bad axe fore sale in the classifieds under shop clean out...I just took delivery of a new one last week and swear that if it were any sharper it would cut just by looking at it!

[Jonathan McCullough]

May want to consider a panel saw. Once you get good with one they're handy and versatile. Unlike a back saw, you can saw through something wide.

[Rick Lasita]

I recently purchased Capt America, Bad Axe 16", had it two weeks, haven't reached for any other saw yet. Worth the wait, worth the money.

[David Keller NC]

One thing to realize is that you can make a rip-filed back saw work very well for cross-cuts. For the type of joinery you mention, you cannot just cut to a pencil line - your marks have to be knifed. Even the finest-toothed cross-cut saw will tear out the show surface of a tenon if the cut line isn't knifed.

That said, I have both L-N 14" back saws, and the L-N 12" carcasse saw, as well as several antiques in the 12" - 14" range. I use the 12" at my bench almost exclusively for cross-cuts. The reason is that it is lighter and smaller, and speed of cut isn't a consideration in 1/2" drawer stock.

[Mike Holbrook]

You could save some money buying Japanese style saws. I have 4 folding Silky saws that perform quite well. I think they are a little easier to learn to use starting out. These saws often have hardened teeth that cut well from the start without sharpening. I just bought a new blade for my Gumboy which is actually more of a pruning saw but sees use in my shop as well. There are Japanese saws availabel from Silky & others that have stiffened backs as well.

[Tri Hoang]

After a little bit of tweaking, the Veritas x-cut/rip cut saws are the ones I use most often. They are well balanced and versatile enough for most bench work. Sharpen them well & they will sing.