Old Curtis Air Compressor questions

[Nick Fisher]

I hope this is the right forum for this,

So I just bought a Curtis Air compressor for $150. It was made in 1990. A little old, but I figured that it would still work well with some TLC. I hooked it up to a 110v for a couple of seconds to make sure that it ran. It did, but we figured that it must be wired for 220v because it ran fairly slow. As you can see from the photos, it has two pumps. They are a ES-05. The motors are only 1/3 HP. When I looked these up online, they appeared to produce 1.9 ACFM(can some one check me on this?).
Does that mean that when the compressor is running, it will only produce 3.8 CFM max? I was hoping for a lot more from this compressor. I have to do some work to this thing before I can charge it up and test it with a stopwatch to get the actual CFM's. I don't want to put any more money into it if it will only be giving me 3.8 CFM's(I'll just sell it as is). Does any one have any thoughts on this? I don't want to go through the hassle of wiring my shop a new 220v(don't have one right now) if I don't have to. But would gladly do it if this air compressor produced more than just 3.8CFM. I also have to go buy some adapters, the out line looks to be 3/4in, and I don't have an adapter for that. Any thoughts of the capability of this machine before I spend any more money? Thanks all,
Nick

The photos are of the Air compressor, the motor label, the wiring box(how do I switch this to a 120v?), the tank label, and the drain valve on the side

I think the drain valve was broken off, and idea how to fix this? The only nipple extractor i can find is too large, hopefully one of those Grab-it bits will do the trick. I don't think I'll ever use it(there is another drain pipe lower down on the side), I just don't want it to leak air.
The photos were posted at photo bucket(I couldn't get the attachment thing to work, dead link when I clicked on the attachment button.
Thanks
Nick

http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...compressor.jpg (http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m193/Lucky1406/Curtisaircompressor.jpg)
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...sTankLabel.jpg (http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m193/Lucky1406/CurtisTankLabel.jpg)
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...motorlabel.jpg (http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m193/Lucky1406/Curtismotorlabel.jpg)
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...isairdrain.jpg (http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m193/Lucky1406/Curtisairdrain.jpg)
http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m...swiringbox.jpg (http://i104.photobucket.com/albums/m193/Lucky1406/Curtiswiringbox.jpg)

[Thomas S Stockton]

Nick
If you got it to run on 110 that is how it's wired, if it was wired for 220 it would not do anything. It would be easy to check, on the end of the motor is a plate where the wiring goes in open it up and compare to the wiring diagram on the motor. A lot of industrial compressors run slower than homeowner models. I have an old Ingersool Rand that is only 1 1/2 hp and is cobbled together from a couple of different models but it is a two stage model and puts out more than enough cfm for my needs including running a spray gun.
Tom

[Carroll Courtney]

Nick your not going to get much out of that air compressor.Its design for pneumatic controls such as controls in a school for the thermostats,dampers,s/s of motors,etc.Most that we have at work that has two pumps will alternate,one is off while the other is running unless the pressure is so low in the tank that it needs both.Its one of the best air compressor out there and for what you paid for it,you did get your moneys worth and a well deserve "YOU SUCK".Congrads----Carroll

[Nick Fisher]

Well, I took your advice. Since it ran on the 110v, I left it connected like that. After about 5 min, one of thew motors stopped working. It got over heated. Ends up it was 220v. Gonna try and sell it for whatever I can get.