Dewalt GWI

[Dave Norris]

Hi,
I"m cleaning up and reworking some parts of a Dewalt GWI. I'm having a bit of a time with the "lift latch". There seems to be a little slop in it in the 90 degree setting. It just doesn't seem to want to seat properly and stay seated. In the 45 degree position, it seats solidly and tightly, so when I tighten the arm down, it's dead on. In the 90 degree position, I can move the end of the arm a about an 1/8 inch, which makes returning to dead on 90 a problem. It doesn't seem like there is any excessive wear on either the latch. I cleaned the corners of the notch out well, and it doesn't seem to help.

Any thoughts or hints?

Thanks
Dave

Also, I can't seem to find directions on converting the saw to 220/240. It's on 120 now, but it will be positioned right beside a 220 outlet. I have the manual from Vintage Machinery, but it doesn't seem to mention it.

[Neil Brooks]

Aren't there two hex-wrench-type set screws in there ? If memory serves, you loosen the set screws, center the arm at a perfect 90, and then tighten down the set screws to hold positioning ?

[Neil Brooks]

Fixing typos ?

Life's too short ;)

[Dave Norris]

Hi Neil,
Two set screws hold the larger "bolts" that form the axle the latch pivots on. I have those cinched down tight (both the set screws and the "axle bolts").

The latch seems to seat tight when you first seat it, but then it's almost as if it pops back up. There was some crud built up in the corners of the notch it seats into, and I thought for sure cleaning that out would solve the problem, but it didn't.

[Dave Norris]

I left out a couple words and some info too... kind of distorted the meaning

[Neil Brooks]

Mine's an MBF. I saw a few pics of the GWI, and see that yours IS different:

http://home.comcast.net/~dewalts/gwi.pdf

[for those who don't know the model ....]

Until somebody who does know the model chimes in ... can you SEE where the play is coming from ? Are your threads stripped out in the cast iron, or do your bolts and set screws fit snugly ?

Is the column, itself, turning within the base ?

Hmm.

Just looking at the pic ... unless your flip-down lever is munged ... it's hard to see where slop could come in, other than one or more of those three -- bolts, set screws, locking lever.

:confused:

[Dave Norris]

Mine's not exactly like that. My latch is more like the latch on an MBF, only beefier. The latch itself seems to have no wear at all. I'm wondering if the notch in the column is a little worn, but even at that, it seems ok when I first seat it.

[Dave Norris]

Hmmm... I wonder if I have some crud under the latch somewhere that I somehow smoosh down when I first seat it, but that gives some spring back after I let go? Gonna go check that...

[Neil Brooks]

When I bought mine, I pretty well tore it down. All contact points and threads got a good dousing with WD-40 or brake cleaner, a scrubbing with a toothbrush, and a spray of teflon lubricant.

My gut says you're right: crud.

Gotta' run, but will check back. You got me curious :)

[Aaron Berk]

Just disassemble the assembly, clean and re install. It doesn't take much time.

[Kevin Presutti]

It seems to me that in the Mr. Sawdust publication there was several pages dedicated to this very subject. Since the GWI was Wally's saw of choice I think you should be able to find the answer to your question in the "DeWalt RAS Bible". I'm going to have to dig mine out and revisit that topic of setting it up to dead on after you get the fence secured. I clearly remember there was a sequence that was required.


Kevin

[Dave Norris]

Thanks for the help everyone. Took it back apart, recleaned, and potentially found a small splinter of wood between one pin and the latch. Thanks for the help.

Would anyone know of a source for bearings for the roller head, also how hard it is to press the bearing shafts into the bearings? This saw was apart at one time, and I think the bearings may have gotten damp. After soaking for a day they are still very rough.

[Neil Brooks]

I like it when the fix is (relatively) easy.

Accurate bearing gets high marks. I got mine from Wolfe Machinery. High marks for them, too.

The press and removal on the roller head bearings SHOULD be pretty easy. On the motor bearings ... not necessarily so much.

[Cary Falk]

Accurate Bearing does not carry the carriage bearings. Wolf probably does. When I priced mine a year ago I think they were $25 per bearing.