PDA

View Full Version : 16/42 outboard turning fabrication-anybody come with anything fancy?



Greg Bender
10-20-2011, 2:52 PM
I want to turn outboard on my 16/42 and was wondering what and if anybody had come up with something that they would want to share photo's and info.
I was looking at the end of my bed and it's 90 degrees to the floor and already has 4 M-8 or M-10 threaded holes to start the process.
Thanx in advance,
Greg

John Keeton
10-20-2011, 4:23 PM
Greg, I think something similar to the one John Smith did for his PM would work - about as simple as one can get. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?174054-Home-brewed-bed-extension-for-Mustard-Monster

charlie knighton
10-20-2011, 5:49 PM
this is not fancy and not cheap, but there is video out there somewhere with Nick Cook having two powermatic's hooked together turning large log with both motors running, one at each end, and he is using the powermatic stand

for safety sake, use some type of brace so tool rest does not get pulled into turning, the stand will be slightly tilted away from lathe

enjoy

ps: how ya like my fancy sharpening station?

David Reed
10-21-2011, 1:07 AM
I recently built an outboard tool rest using some 2" square tube I had lying around. It was kind of rusty and thin wall so wire brushed it to clean a bit and drilled 5/16" holes in each end. Placed a spacer of 1/2" iron pipe inside to keep it from collapsing and ran 5/16" bolts through each adjacent piece. The same technique to attach it to the lathe bed and welded a smaller square tube on the end for the tool rest, extending to the floor. Welding on a nut for the tool rest compression bolt finished it off. Still have not painted it yet. Very versatile but will need to add one more section if I turn larger than about 36" to wrap clear around the piece. I guess I added an additional nut and compression bolt at the bottom of the tool rest tube with an internal pipe to adjust the length to the floor if need be. With this on the floor, very solid. Not too elegant but quite functional. Sorry for the marginal pics - cell phone pics only for now.

John Keeton
10-21-2011, 6:52 AM
Nice setup, David! The only modification I might suggest in this arrangement is to make the "elbow" on the back side so as to not reduce clearance in front of the lathe if the outboard setup remains in place all the time. Just a thought, but I really like the concept of what you did.

I NEED A WELDER!! So many times I can see one would come in handy.

David Reed
10-21-2011, 9:11 AM
Now why didn't I think of that! Will reverse it at the earliest opportunity.
Re the welder, I have and old stick welder, but I still need a COMPETENT WELDER as in operator. I can make things stick together using high electrical current generating high heat, but I am no welder.

Steve Kubien
10-21-2011, 7:32 PM
Dave, I love this. I have been toying with something similar but I want/NEED to incorporate some form of tailstock to realign roughouts.... Still thinking.

Greg Bender
10-21-2011, 9:01 PM
Mr Keaton,
Thanx for the response, David's is a very close version to what I have been leaning towards. Although thre link you provided for John Smith's idea is great also. I do have a hard time wrapping my head around something like that made out of WOOD. It would be great finding a deal on a PM banjo and tool post extension on Fleabay but I know better.I'm toying with the idea of making my own banjo and post extension and may copy John right to the limit. Many Thanx for the idea's from everybody.
Greg

charlie knighton
10-21-2011, 9:14 PM
Greg,
I do have a hard time wrapping my head around something like that made out of WOOD. his tool rest and supports are metal, welded together with some screws

John M. Smith
10-21-2011, 9:55 PM
Tool rest is standard using Powermatics extension post. The bed ways are 4" by 1/2" steel bar stock, screwed to the top of the baltic birch structure. No welding required. I used the banjo off the lathe. While turning my large burl, I had a little bounce at the outside edges, but i was turning less than 200 rpms, and only cutting on one wing.

Greg Bender
10-21-2011, 10:06 PM
Charlie,
I knew that some of it was oem or metal that was substituted but the bed rails being wood was what baffled me.

John,
if you were to make it again would you be tempted to use maybe 6/4 hard maple or the like for the vertical surfaces on the bed rails. What is the overall length of the rail assembly and what is the support method where it meets the legs of the lathe.I think I might of found a banjo and extension on fleabay so along with my 1/2" by 4 " by 48" piece of 1018 bar stock I found behind my milling M/C tonite I believe we will try to not overbuild one.
Thanx,Greg

John M. Smith
10-21-2011, 10:16 PM
I think maple would work, but I think it needs to be thicker than 1.5". I still think baltic birch is a sturdier way to build.

I laminated 3 pieces of 3/4" baltic birch to get the 3 cross pieces. The one that hooks to the lathe was bored for bolts to connect to tapped holes in the legs.The legs supporting the extension could be splayed apart more. I think that would make it more stable. I also have been thinking of adding a shelf under the extension to add weight to it.