Rust prevention for internal machine parts

[Scott Flamm]

I recently bought a bandsaw off of craigslist that needed some work to get into shape. Most of the parts (table, bearings, guides, screws, etc.) that could have rust did due to the previous owners lack of maintenance. I disassembled the bandsaw and removed the rust but before I reassemble it I want to protect the parts from returning to their formerly rusty ways. I have run across many threads concerning rust prevention of exterior surfaces such as tablesaw/jointer/planer tables but not much in the way of the interior parts. So my question is how to prevent rust from returning to the newly derustified bandsaw's internal parts. Do I just spray everythings with T-9 like I would for the table or is there some other product that is more suited to the misc. parts that also aquire rust? (If there is a thread that already covers this topic, a link would be greatly appreciated.)

[Myk Rian]

Sounds like it was in a humid shop.
Sawdust collects moisture. Keep the sawdust cleaned up.

[Chris Tsutsui]

T-9 should do it. I don't really have it in me to buy the boeshield package so I just use WD-40. Spray on to saturate and wipe off excess. Any oil/wax/film-like coating that will prevent moisture buildup on the surface should work.

I always thought sawdust will help wick moisture away from your cast iron, thus preventing rust by acting as a barrier, but I clean things up anyway whenever I can to improve air quality.

[HANK METZ]

I've used good 'ol Boiled Linseed oil on my machine parts like drill press column, table surfaces, shafting, etc. Here in Florida ferrous metal takes a beating from the elements, but I've found BLO to be cheap yet very effective.

- Beachside Hank

[Bruce Wrenn]

Go over to Lowes and buy some drawer liner for tool boxes. It's a vapor emitting product. Vapors prevent corrosion. Put a piece somewhere inside the cavity of the BS. Change it in a couple months. Keep unused portion in a zip loc bag, as it also off gasses.

[Bob Wingard]

Lookup a source for LPS-1 or LPS-2 ... the name signifies LUBRICATED/PENETRATES/STOPS RUST ... it goes on wet, then flashes off, leaving a dry film of protection. I've used it on tools & guns for almost 40 years now with good results. #1 & #2 are very similar in nature, just that #2 has a much higher viscosity.

[Randy Dutkiewicz]

Here in Savannah, humidity is obviously high in the summer months. What I've done to try and prevent excessive moisure from beating the internal components of my tools is place those rust preventative packets inside of my tool drawers in inside of my machinery (ie: inside the bandsaw covers, shaper case, etc). Now, instead of me going out and buying these rust/moisture preventative packets from stores, I began using the moisture packets that come inside of commerical ink cartridge boxes from work. We use several copiers at work and they all come with those packets included to keep moisture away from damaging the large ink cartridges. We've always just thrown them away when we open up a new ink box, so I said to myself "I'll re-incorporate their use". Some of these moisture packets are large, so they work really well being placed inside of machinery. Just tape them inside of the machine base. Not sure "how well" they're working, but I can say I haven't had any problems. General maintenance and cleaning inside is still a must though with anything.