Festool plunge saw question

[Craig D Peltier]

Im trying to find out if the track that is used with the saw would grip on a rough grit sanded or a planed board so it could be ripped , no clamping.Festool rep at woodcraft last week said yes with no clamping. Im thinking of this so I can do my straight-lining . Now I use a jointer and it takes forever. I cant do it on my tablesaw due to setup/space ( I dont want to run a groove into the off feed table since its my bench and assembly table.

Thanks

[Jamie Buxton]

The track can generally grip the workpiece well enough that no clamps are necessary. It seems unbelievable, but it is true. That's how I straight-line rough lumber now. However, if your rough lumber is a long way from flat, the track may find itself rocking on the surface, and it may move as it rocks. In that case, clamps do help. I just use spring clamps, but Festool does sell C clamps that hook to the underside of the track, and don't get in the way of the saw.

[johnny means]

I get zero slippage cutting melamine. You can't get much slippery than that.

[Chris Tsutsui]

The black neoprene-like grip strip on the bottom of the track is similar to the material used on bench cookies.

As long as you clean the grips so they don't get loaded with sawdust or dirt it should grip reasonably well. Still, I would use the festool under mount track clamps on a piece that needs to be plunge cut and also use the black plastic stop that prevents the saw from bucking when it plunges.

[Charles Wiggins]

I can echo everything Jamie said. I've used mine on everything from OSB to hardwood ply with no gripping problems at all.

The other thing to consider is the width of the stock you want to rip. The track has thin foam "grip strips" on the underside which prevent it from moving around on the workpiece while you saw. I have not ripped anything narrow with mine, but it seems to me that if the piece you are ripping is too narrow you may not get enough grip to prevent slipping.

[Mike Hollingsworth]

I have not ripped anything narrow with mine, but it seems to me that if the piece you are ripping is too narrow you may not get enough grip to prevent slipping.

That's when I have to use another set of hands. I bought the clamps, but i rarely use them.

[Jeff Monson]

I usually use the under track clamps, they are very quick and you know its not going to slip. My strips are getting worn so they dont have the grip they used to. I'd feel comfortable straight lining rough cut lumber without clamps, if I had a nice open area to make a consistent fluid cut. Seems I run into slipping when I have to stop and reposition myself, or when the cord gets caught in the end of the workpiece.

[Alan Lightstone]

I usually use the c-clamps. Probably a belt and suspenders deal, but I feel better using at least one of them.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I cant do it on my tablesaw due to setup/space ( I dont want to run a groove into the off feed table since its my bench and assembly table.
You can always use a sled.

Re: the clamps.
I considered the cost of them & using them as insurance.
I really can't say if the tracks stay put or not w/out them since I use mine all the time.

Matter of fact, I was going to bite the bullet and get another set of them when someone here pointed out that the Rockler fence/corner clamps fit the Festool track perfectly.

[Peter Kelly]

As above, the saw track will stay put without clamps on a rough surface just fine as long as it is relatively flat. If the stock has a crown to it and the track isn't contacting in enough places, you'll want the clamps. I've had my TS 65 bind and kick back on me when the track got loose on an unsecured rip in a piece of hardwood and it gave me a pretty good scare.

[Paul Incognito]

Another one straightlining rough lumber with no clamps here. No issues with slipping. In fact, I bought the clamps with the saw and have never used them.
For boards narrower than the track, I just put another board the same thichness under the uverhanging track. No slipping issues with that either.
Paul

[Jamie Buxton]

One more thought re straightlining... It is a good thing to buy a rip blade for the saw. The TS55 (dunno about the '65) ships with a blade optimized for chip-free cutting of sheet goods. It doesn't do a very good job ripping lumber.

[Craig D Peltier]

Thanks everyone for the info and ideas. Sounds good to me.

[Gary Curtis]

I had mixed luck with the Festool guide rail when not using clamps. It is too easy for a grain change in the lumber to make the kerf veer.

[raymond Abel]

I have a TS55 & I use it witout clamp
work very whell see for your self:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y0YkTB-oARA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PYf8CKIWucA&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL

Commantary in French but I am sure you could see what I am doing...