Worm/hypoid drive saw downsides?

[Matt Radtke]

I'm considering buying a worm-drive circular saw, specifically a hypoid and magnesium model like the Makita 5377MG or Craftsman 28195.

Besides increased inconvenience to the user due to increased weight (trying to be very specific here), are there any downsides to a worm drive saw? Any reason why a worm drive would be a downgrade to a sidewinder?

[Paul McGaha]

Matt,

Just my opinion of using them but I prefer a worm drive saw. I use a 6 1/2" worm drive saw made by Skil. It's a little lighter than a 7 1/4" saw. Blades a little harder to find though.

PHM

[Ben Hatcher]

The biggest change I noticed when I switched to a worm drive is that the blade is on the left instead of the right. I'm right handed so for me that meant lots of chips in my face when trying to make a cut with the worm drive saw.

[Jake Elkins]

When framing out a house, you are making mostly cross cuts, and I can see why the Skilsaw was the saw of choice when I learned (Left coast, 10 worm drives for every sidewinder on the site). However, I now only use mine (Makita, excellent saw btw) for breaking down sheet goods and making straight-line rips in gnarly lumber. While it certainly has the power, the blade on the left setup has its downsides. In addition to the chips-in-the-face, I always feel that I am holding it wrong, even though I'm a rightie. Switching hands doesn't seem to help, as its not comfortable. While its a well made tool, every time I use it now, I wonder if a sidewinder wouldn't be better. Not sure, though, if a sidewinder can rip 2" boards, I've never tried.

When the funds become available, many moons from now, a track-saw (Makita, or [gasp!] Festool) will be on my wish list, as it will be ideal for what I use a circular saw for.

[Matt Radtke]

Well, yes, a track-saw would be the perfect solution, but I wouldn't use it enough to justify the price tag.

I currently have a sidewinder and I've suddenly developed a dislike after breaking down a lot of plywood when I re-roofed. And again last night breaking down some 5/4 walnut (almost stalled out.)

So I need a better circular saw, I don't need a great one.

[Marty Paulus]

I have the craftsman. I like the left blade. Easier to see the line when freehanding a cut. It does have plenty of power. The weight is the only downside I can think of.

[phil harold]

Well from my experiences a worm drive is more dangerous than a sidewinder
there is more torque and power with worm drives and when things go wrong they go badly

here is an an example just pick up the worm drive from the floor a few inches with one hand and press the trigger
you will notice that the saw wants to turn into to you add this to the fact that blade guards stick open at times too
I have seen them eat thru 16p in nail bags, go thru 25 stanley tape cases and thigh meat.

I love my sidewinders but they dont work as well as wormdrives when gang cutting or sawing concrete.


maybe they need a sawstop on skilsaws...

[Tom Hargrove]

I think sidewinders and worm-drives excel at different things. In my experience, worm drives work better when cutting framing lumber or demolition work. In these roles, the added weight is a big plus. If you saw with a downward motion, the saw's momentum can push the blade through the wood with less effort by the operator. The hook/handle is also convenient to hang the saw on a saw horse.

I prefer to use a sidewinder when working with sheet goods, or when making more precise cuts in dimensional lumber, siding or other materials.

If you are looking for a saw with the blade on the left side, many companies make "left handed" sidewinders.

[Gene Howe]

I've used the same Skil worm drive for 20 years. I've never owned a sidewinder. Were I a carpenter building houses or other large construction jobs, you bet I'd have a sidewinder. That Skil is really heavy and just the thought of hefting that thing all day long makes my wrists and arms hurt.
That being said, I love the Skil for use in the shop. It's main use is breaking down ply. And, now that I built my version of a track saw, I don't even need to leave allowances for table saw trimming, anymore. As already mentioned, It's also great for use on 5/4 lumber.

[Walter Plummer]

When I started 36 years ago I learned with a worm-drive. I always considered them a right handed saw. A side winder is awkward for me. If you think they are heavy and have a lot of torque now find a vintage one. I still have mine from 1975 and it puts new ones to shame.

[Jim Matthews]

Drop the boffins over at Eurekazone a line, they have experimented with lots of saws and outfit Worm drives all the time.

If you're using one on a track, a lot of the handling problems are minimized.
As TH mentioned, putting the Worm drive on a downhill slope uses gravity in your favor.

[Gary Kman]

A friend bought a Porter Cable saw with the blade on the left that (as a right hander) he likes. Ran into an old salt that was framing houses when Skil saws first came out. After decades of building, he locked in on a light, cheap plastic 6 1/2" Skil. Had three of them. When 2 needed repairs he took them to the shop. Said if anybody wanted to haul around a saw the weight of concrete block the were welcome to it. I'm happy with a Makita 7 1/4" that sells for about $100. Was always bending the base on the cheap Skils. Each to his own.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Here, pawn shops are the place to go for saws. The construction business is in the pits, and there are a lot of tools out there. The Skill 77's go for less than a hundred, and top of the line DeWalt side winder goes for $50 - $80.

[Myk Rian]

Make sure you keep the oil level up in the gear box of a worm drive.
They weigh a bit, but they do the job better than any other saw.

[Jim Finn]

[QUOTE=Myk Rian;1791837..... a worm drive.
They weigh a bit, but they do the job better than any other saw.[/QUOTE]
I agree. I bought the light weight model SKill worm drive and like it a LOT better then the old sidwinder I had used before. I just looked at what ALL the carpenters I met on jobsites had and bought what they had... a skill wormdrive.

[Jason Roehl]

I like my Skil wormdrive, too. I don't mind the weight (weight = stability), and as a righty, I like the blade on the left where I can see it--it allows me to stand up in a safer position rather than being all hunched over the saw.

[Matt Radtke]

Well, I broke down and bought one last night. Menard's had their Masterforce hypoid on sale and I snatched it up. http://menards.com/main/tools-hardware/power-tools/saws/masterforce-7-1-4-hypoid-circular-saw/p-1504361-c-9082.htm

As far as I can tell, a LOT of the Masterforce line is the same as the Craftsman Professional line, other than the obvious color changes. So why would I buy Masterforce instead of Craftsman?

1) It a little cheaper. Not much, on the order of 1-5% normally, but every bit helps.

2) Warranty. Masterforce stuff has a 3 year warranty. The same (as far as I can tell) saw from Craftsman has a 1 year warranty. And it costs about $10 more.

[Anthony Smaldone]

I second the vintage saws.....although I learned on one 30 yrs ago. I learned on a 9 1/2" worm drive, the thing was a beast. (cut anything) I cant get used to a sidewinder either. I bought a PC 345 right hand saw...at 6" its small and light weight. Too bad they discontinued them

[Dan Hintz]

They make both left- and right-handed worms... for those who feel cornfused ;)

[Larry Edgerton]

Every worm drive I have ever had with the exception on the 4 1/2" PC has less blade speed than a conventional skill saw. This is where the power comes from, but it also compromises cut quality. For what they are intended for that is not an issue. I normally use a sidewinder, but for OSB sheeting I prefer the reach of the worm, and for cutting rafter tails they are the ticket. If I could only have one saw, it would be a sidewinder.

Larry

[Jerome Hanby]

The PSI Portable Panel Saw will give you a track saw setup that is long enough to cut a full sheet of plywood diagonally. Works with most circular saws and was about $100 when I bought mine through Amazon several years ago. I like my Festool better, but I still use my PPS/Hitachi combo (in fact the Hitachi circular saw stays mounted on the PPS carriage dedicated to that use).


Well, yes, a track-saw would be the perfect solution, but I wouldn't use it enough to justify the price tag.

I currently have a sidewinder and I've suddenly developed a dislike after breaking down a lot of plywood when I re-roofed. And again last night breaking down some 5/4 walnut (almost stalled out.)

So I need a better circular saw, I don't need a great one.