Countertops

[Mike Cruz]

Anyone have a suggestion for a countertop material other than wood, Corian, or Silestone that would work for a laundryroom that could be fairly easily "shaped/cut/finished"?

I have some odd shaped countertops that I need and while wood would be the easy answer, I'd rather avoid it (go figure).

Thanks.

[Leo Graywacz]

Melamine is cheap

[Stephen Cherry]

What's wrong with the normal choices? Formica?

Last time I was at Modern Junk in baltimore, they had sheet or plate aluminum, which could be laminated onto plywood, if you want something metalic.

Starboard?

[Jamie Buxton]

Well, there's soapstone. It can be machined with carbide-tipped woodworking tooling. But it is pricey compared to formica.

[Peter Quinn]

Well, indirectly concrete can be shaped via the forms using wood working tools and methods, and it can be colored and sealed, so finished?

[Mike Cruz]

Neat ideas, guys. I especially like the concrete idea. Not that I want concrete, but the idea of building a form and pouring the top sounds neat.

Steven, here's the main challenge I'm having. This is for a laundry room, not a kitchen. My kitchen has granite. Love it, but it is expensive. I went to a granite place yesterday, gave them my dimensions (well, my coutertop dimensions...not MY dimensions :) ) and got a quote...$1500 installed. For a kitchen, I'd consider it. For a laundry room...nope. Secondly, I've got an awkward section to make. It is 73" long, and for all but the last 24", is 12" deep. The last 24" is a corner cabinet, so it is 24" x 24" with a diagonal. These are actually upper cabinets that I am using as lower cabinets (I'm going to put a 4" base under them to create a toe kick). The room is too narrow for these to be actual lower cabinets as they are directly across from the washer and drier. So, the counter top is a foot narrower then store bought laminate. Likewise, since the edges are prefinished (and paper thin coatings), cutting them to size will leave an unfinished edge. Yes, I've thought about how I can chop up a store bought piece, but that will leave seams that not "sandable" or otherwise workable.

I was just wondering if someone out there has used something not really intended for counter tops, but works fine.

[Stephen Cherry]

Formica on plywood? Formica is cheap, easy to glue to plywood, and available in more colors than imaginable. Plus you get to use a router.

[Matt Meiser]

Prefab counters might not work, but you can install laminate sheet over your own substrate, typically particleboard, but you could use MDF or even plywood. Cut the substrate to size and shape, then install the edges and trim flush with the top, then install the top and trim flush with the edges. You can do a neat edge where wood shows through by banding the edges, installing the laminate, and and running a bevel bit around the edge. The big boxes stock a limited supply but can order anything.

[Sam Layton]

Mike, I am with you, granite is the best. How about granite tiles. I think they come in 12" X 12" tiles. If you have a wet saw, or can rent a wet saw, they would make a good laundry room counter. Granite tiles are not expensive, compared to granite slabs.

Sam

[Mike Wilkins]

May I suggest that you consider fabricating your own. Since it is a laundry area, and not visible to visitors, something inexpensive but durable should fit the bill. Like laminate. Buy a sheet of material from one of the big box places, a sheet of MDF, some contact cement and go to town. You are limited by your imagination.

[Steve Friedman]

Mike, I am with you, granite is the best. How about granite tiles. I think they come in 12" X 12" tiles. If you have a wet saw, or can rent a wet saw, they would make a good laundry room counter. Granite tiles are not expensive, compared to granite slabs.
Sam

+1 That's what I would do. In fact, I think I might actually borrow that idea for my laundry room. My wife will love it. Thanks Sam!


Steve

[Prashun Patel]

Curious: What's the reason to avoid the wood? A laundry room seems a perfect application for wood. Also, given that you don't want to spend a lot on it, wood would probably be the cheapest and easiest to machine.

[Mike Cruz]

Did you just say I have a limited imagination?:rolleyes::D

[Mike Cruz]

Prashun, oddly enough...time. Jointing, planing, table sawing, glueing, planing, THEN cutting it out will just take more time than I have for this project. I was looking for a large slab type substrate that would be easily fabricated to my desired dimensions.

Have to admit, making them out of plywood, and tiling really doesn't sound bad. I have someone in mind that could do the tiling...

[Prashun Patel]

I'm just giving more ideas here. I love tile as much as the next guy, so power to you, but...

Why not just get some good veneered plywood. Even walnut or sapele veneered 3/4 will be cheap relative to that much granite tile and the assoc. labor. If you want it a little thicker, make the bottom layer MDF and screw it in from the bottom. Put an edge band on it, a couple coats of varnish, and it's good to go.

No jointing, gluing, warping, grouting or wetsaw work.

[scott vroom]

Tile would be my first choice, either granite or porcelain. In my area 12" granite tiles sell for $10-$20 per sq/ft; $3-$6 for porcelain. You can go as small as 1/8" grout lines with sanded grout. You won't find trim pieces for granite and many of the porcelain tiles. A solution is to have your edge tiles bullnosed....it costs me $5/lineal foot for bullnosing (contractor pricing) up to $8 retail in my area. Here's a few pics showing how I do counter edges with the bullnosed tiles.

[Rob Fisher]

Locally here in Lancaster, PA there is a granite/stone scrap yard. Essentially they keep smaller leftover pieces from other jobs. They have hundreds of different options in natural and manmade stone. They charge $40 a SQFT to fabricate to your dimensions. You install. It was the cheapest option I could find for a built-in in my living room. Look for something like that near you.

[Bob Elliott]

I agree with Rob Fisher. I found a piece of sandstone for my fireplace hearth at a place like he described. I got a remnant cheap that I cut to shape myself.

When I remodeled my kitchen I went up to San Fransisco to some prefab granite shops. I bought an island, 3 8' slabs and backsplash. I put the countertops in myself for $700. You may want to look for prefab granite cvounters in a big city near you.

Bob

[Don Jarvie]

Put me in the laminate/MDF column. It will probably cost you a 100 bucks for the supplies and 2 to 3 hours to make them tops.

Don

[Chris Harper]

There are a few companies that make counter tops that are a mixture of wood pulp and resins. The only one I can think of off the top of my head is Paperstone.

One of them sold 'contractor over-runs' at decent prices but I never looked into shipping quotes. They can be worked with woodworking tools.

[Brian Tymchak]

Prashun, oddly enough...time. Jointing, planing, table sawing, glueing, planing, THEN cutting it out will just take more time than I have for this project. I was looking for a large slab type substrate that would be easily fabricated to my desired dimensions.

Have to admit, making them out of plywood, and tiling really doesn't sound bad. I have someone in mind that could do the tiling...

How about something like a solid maple/oak top from Ikea or Lumber Liquidators? (Just a thought, I haven't actually used one myself.) Probably $250-$300. The fabrication of the top is already done. You would have to cut it down to fit your situation but it sounds like you have that issue to some degree with any solution. I would think it would take less time than doing the tiling job. And you (probably) have all the tools you need to cut it.

[Mike Cruz]

What is the difference between "pulp and resins" and particalboard?

[Mike Cruz]

That looks great Scott. Thanks for sharing those pics. If granite 12 x 12s are $10 each, that'll likely price me (my wife) out of this job. I might need to go porcelain.

[Mike Cruz]

Prashun...brilliant. Don't know why I didn't think of that. Actually, I wouldn't even need to edgeband...I'd just glue on strips of solid wood and route the edges. Hmmmm, liking this one, too!

Thanks for all the idea, guys. I'm less stressed about this already!

Wife will likely make the final decision...

[Rob Fisher]

What is the difference between "pulp and resins" and particalboard?Paperstone is paper laminated together. Moisture resistant. Cuts with normal tooling. It's also denser and designed to be a counter surface. Oh and it's supposed to be sustainable, 100% recycled paper, petrofree resins. I think it is interesting stuff. But it probably prices out at the higher end unless you can find remants.

[John TenEyck]

I have a friend who's done several odd shaped countertops in concrete. They are gorgeous, you can't tell it from stone. There's a bit of a learning curve, but it's certianly within the skill range of any medium competence woodworker. It does take a couple of three weeks to cure, however, so if you're pressed for time concrete's not going to be an option. And it's really heavy, too, just like granite.

[Chris Harper]

What is the difference between "pulp and resins" and particalboard?

I'm not really sure but it looks like another poster does.

If you have a Sams in your area you could buy one of their work benches and use the nice top that comes with it. I've heard of the metal legs that come with it selling for $75 so you could move them on Craigslist. The top is either 25 x 72 or 24 x 73. If the dimensions didn't work for you you could probably trim it out with a contrasting wood species and make it look good.

[Mike Cruz]

Wow, I've been told I have a limited imagination, and now that I'm a "medium competence woodworker"...you guys are brutal! :D Thanks, but while that concrete idea was actually a cool one, I don't think it will be my best choice.

[Mark Rakestraw]

The Lumber Liquidator butcher block counter tops are the finest made, but for this application they would serve well and are relatively inexpensive.
Mark

[Chris Fairbanks]

Around here there are a bunch of these granite places that import Chinese granite that is prebullnosed and a standard like 26"x96" size. They range from about $200 to $375 each depending on color. If you don't have any edges besides the front that will be exposed where you would have to polish, you can just pick up one of those slabs and use a normal skillsaw with a diamond blade to cut it. I have done multiple vanitys that way and last summer did my outdoor BBQ island though for that I finally broke down and bought a cheap wet skill saw. For the little bit extra money for one of these premade slabs you will save a bunch of time on installation and have what you really want in there. Good luck.

[John TenEyck]

Wow, I've been told I have a limited imagination, and now that I'm a "medium competence woodworker"...you guys are brutal! :D Thanks, but while that concrete idea was actually a cool one, I don't think it will be my best choice.

My comment wasn't aimed at you, Mike. Sorry if I offended you.

John

[thomas prusak]

Hey Mike, how about indoor/outdoor carpet? The real nice stuff.

[Mike Cruz]

If I could get on the counter and use it as a putting green, I'd consider it... :)

[Kevin Stricker]

Plastic Laminate is your answer. Very easy to tool, already finished surface that will be resistant to laundry products. Apply a solid wood edging before laying the Laminate then route profile into both at once for a seamless look that is more moisture resistant than applying the edging after applying the Laminate. Build a countertop ideally out of moisture resistant MDF, though particleboard will do, two layers thick of 3/4 material. Apply your edge banding (use pocket screws for a cleaner look than face nails), cut your Laminate to size take off apply contact cement to both surfaces then carefully apply Laminate. Flush trim, profile, file and you are finished.

[Phil Thien]

I don't know about your area, but around here we have HOBO stores, and they have awesome deals on granite tiles. Their selection is limited, but I think I paid a few bucks for 12" tiles.

I also saw 24" tiles somewhere once. The price was higher, but you could use fewer tiles, have fewer grout lines, and still save a lot over a single piece of granite.

The thing I haven't liked about most tile counters I've seen is the edge treatment. I mostly see a narrow piece of tile applied to the front of the substrate, and a grout line between this piece, and the tile on the top of the substrate. It ends up looking very busy and a bit fragile. And it also looks tedious to get the alignment right.

And then I saw a job where a guy used a piece of solid teak edge-banding on the substrate (applied with biscuits), and the tile on top was run past this teak edge banding about 1/4". He was able to put a subtle relief on the edge of the tile. It looked pretty awesome (dark tile, oiled teak). When I commented on the awesomeness of the edge treatment he said, "yeah, this was much easier and faster than tiling the edge, and I think it looks a lot nicer."

He was a union carpenter selling his house. The only thing against it was the location. All the work he had done was top-notch. Everything was upgraded. He had swapped work with other trades for upgraded electrical, he had spray foam everywhere, he had new plumbing all the way out to the street. Amazing.

[Jeff Duncan]

I'm in the laminate camp, inexpensive and very good wear and tear for what it costs. It sounds like you may not be inclined to deal with the fabrication part but you can still find a local shop to make it up for you. Self edge tops are roughly $15 a sq. ft. around me, and sometimes cheaper if you find the 'right' shop. The advantage is all you have to do is pop it in.....of course you could hire someone to do that too!

Tile can be OK but you still have to deal with installing a plywood base, installing the tile, grouting the tile, sealing the grout, and then maintaining it over time. Whereas laminate pops in and is good until you decide it's time for a change.

good luck,
JeffD