How long for borg KD fir to dry?

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

I know the proper answer here is going to be "until it's dry" and "use a moisture meter" - understandably so. A moisture meter is actually something I'll shopping for with the next paycheck. But I'm thinking of using borg KD Fir for the base (legs and stretchers) of my bench - I need to check into some other options first. But I'm curious about how much drying time it would need to be acclimated - I mean, are we talking weeks, or months or years? I have no idea. I know I've built things like sawhorses out of this stuff in the past, and even after picking out the driest stuff in the lot, I did need to slightly re-flatten the top of one eventually, but I'm just trying to figure out how much planning ahead I need to do if I use this stuff.

[Danny Hamsley]

It is probably about 15 - 17% moisture. To acclimate it inside would take about 3 to 4 weeks to be safe if you sticker it (stack it with 1" wood spacers about every 2 feet).

[Ron Brese]

With kind of winters you have in Vermont it should be plenty dry by spring if stored in doors. When it's cold and the wind is blowing the air gets amazingly dry and if it's stored in a climate controlled space that's even better.

Ron

[glenn bradley]

I stickered mine in my SoCal shop (garage. very dry) for 2 months. It still shrank so bad over the next 6 months that a rebuild is required. Lowe's KD fir. YMMV.

[David Wong]

I had 8 ft 4x6's sticker-ed in my garage I bought from HDepot. They were soaking wet like most lumber from my local Borg. I would weigh them on my bathroom scale to determine when I could use them. When the weight stopped dropping and stabilized, I assumed they had reached equilibrium. In my dry garage, it took 8 to 10 months. Most pieces were dry by 8 months.

[Mark Wyatt]

A couple of years ago I bought Douglas Fir from the local Menards. I borrowed a moisture meter to test it and it was under 10% straight from the shelf. So YMMV.

[David Kumm]

If you check around you might find some local kiln guys. They might let you throw some boards on top of one of their charges for a little cash and finish the drying in a week or so. Dave

[Scott T Smith]

I know the proper answer here is going to be "until it's dry" and "use a moisture meter" - understandably so. A moisture meter is actually something I'll shopping for with the next paycheck. But I'm thinking of using borg KD Fir for the base (legs and stretchers) of my bench - I need to check into some other options first. But I'm curious about how much drying time it would need to be acclimated - I mean, are we talking weeks, or months or years? I have no idea. I know I've built things like sawhorses out of this stuff in the past, and even after picking out the driest stuff in the lot, I did need to slightly re-flatten the top of one eventually, but I'm just trying to figure out how much planning ahead I need to do if I use this stuff.

Joshua, the answer is "it depends". As Danny stated, it is probably currently around 16% MC. Fir dries fairly quickly, but for it to do so you need to have it in a warm, dry environment with a gentle air flow through the stack.

Just being in a warm dry environment is not enough - you need the air flow as well. That's why it can take several months for some folks, and several weeks for others.

Target 40% RH in your shop if you're using a dehumidifier, and put a couple of box fans on low about 5' from the stack. You should be good to go in about 4 weeks or so.

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

Thanks for the input guys. Before I even think about it, I need to get a moisture meter. Still weighing my options. I'll probably just spend the extra for some nice dry poplar or fir from the local lumberyard where I tend to get my hardwood.

Edit: I actually sat down and did the math - I can build the whole base out of 8/4 poplar from the yard for a good price. Surfacing that by hand is going to be a dream after doing these large pieces of hard maple...

[phil harold]

Remember that 2x4 are rough building materials that come as:
GRN (green)
Economy
Surfaced Dry
Kiln Dried
Pressure Treated

I have had better luck with surface dry than kiln dried for interior projects
and do most of framing with grn doug fir when available (you dont want to hand nail kiln dried fir)

2x4s are going to move

fine grain poplar is stable in interior conditions, the mona lisa is painted on a poplar panel...

[Mike Siemsen]

To be clear Liriodendron tulipifera or Tulip poplar would not have been available in Europe for Leonardo to paint on. He would have been using something from the populus family like aspen or cottonwood. I have built benches from borg material right off the shelf. I wouldn't worry too much about shrinkage, it is a work bench base. That being said letting it set for a time isn't a bad idea if you have the time.
Mike

[Prashun Patel]

Boy, I must just have good luck.

I regularly purchase the KD DougFir @ my HD. If it feels dry to my fingers and sights pretty straight down the edge, I use it. I've made a bench top, legs, horses and cauls out it it. It's worked great and has remained stable for each of these. I've also picked up pricier dfir 2x4's from a couple higher quality lumber yards around me. It was my experience at both that they sell most of it to contractors for framing, and don't take care to keep it straight.

[Bill Moser]

Joshua -
You might try M.B. Heath & sons in Hyde Park. They're a small mill, but custom cut to order, and do a great job. they do a lot of green-timber work, but have air-dried stuff in the yard as well -- mostly hemlock and pine. If you're willing to travel a couple of hours, they're a great local (well northern VT, anyway) business. tel # (802) 635-2538 , and I'm not an employee. just a happy & repeat customer :)

[Harlan Barnhart]

I let mine set for a year before building. No problems so far. That was standard 1 1/2" framing lumber. Pine/fir stuff is quite different dried than "green". I could hardly believe it was the same wood.

[Jim Foster]

It's going to move anyhow. I'd let it sit stickered for a week if it's kiln dried and then use it. You can always re-flatten it. As far as I can tell the borg wood around my neck of the wods does not get exposed to the elements in a negative way (quality can be another issue)

[Jake Helmboldt]

Joshua, save some money and look for the General Mositure Seeker at the borg. I have a Mini Ligno and I bought the General at Lowes for $10 and the two read within a couple % points. Unless you want a pinless meter I'd go with the super cheap General and not worry about your budget.

As for wood, I pick through the stacks for both straightness and mositure. Some dimensional lumber is soaking wet, even when it says "kil dried".