Replacing Stair Treads and faces

[Sean Troy]

Hi all, my wife somehow talked me into redoing or stairs. We've pulled the carpet of to find unfinished red oak treads and faces. Unfortunetly, the carpet installers used a lot of staples so we are pulling all those. The treads are also nailed down with finish nails it appears. Should I save these stairs or replace them? I don't have a problem counter sinking the nails and filling before sanding and sealing. What are the pros and cons of leaving these steps in and redoing them. The bottom four steps are not oak but ply I assume because they are angled so I will have to put oak in on those. Thanks for any help and info, Sean

[Sean Troy]

Bump for help

[Josiah Bartlett]

That's a tough call. Replacing stair treads can be rather expensive if you want really high grade treads. As long as the existing ones aren't cracked or otherwise bad, and you can get a good match for the ones you need to replace, filling the holes is probably the best option. Usually the staple holes disappear pretty well given the grain structure of Red Oak.

[Dave Sims]

I am intersted in refacing a set of stairs. I have not removed the carpet yet, I am assuming they are not stain grade lumber. I want oak treads with painted risers. All of the refacing information I have found calls for cutting the tread noses off and gluing on new treads and risers leaving them 1/32" short for expansion. It just seems kind of sketchy, I still have the carpet on the stairs because I just don't know how to proceed. I can't think of another way to go about this, but I am not sure if this is the correct way.

[Ron Bontz]

I have only built a few sets of oak stairs. But to me IMHO it is best to just replace the whole tread. This gives you the opportunity to correct/strengthen the stringers, straighten and level the risers as well as screw down a nice flat and level tread. Finish as desired. It may cost a bit more of course. But the up side is a beautiful set of stairs can be a focal point of the room/entry, etc. The last time I bought pre made solid oak treads, last year, they were about $45.00 each. (42" treads). Otherwise there are a few accomplished stair builders that frequent this site. Hopefully they will speak up. Best of luck to you.

[phil harold]

Sean,

Oak is so easy to hide small holes...

just leave the treads in place and use a sander and a scraper to get at the corner and edges

[Tom Hammond]

It all depends on the condition of the tread and riser. Single board or glued panel? Split? Cracked? Dented, nail holes, chips, strips? Are the treads and risers on top of the stringers or do you have "box stairs," where the treads and risers inset into a side board?

With hardwood treads and risers, if I can remove them... I repair and refinish them in the shop and reinstall them. It makes for such a better job. If you do remove them, make sure you track the order AND orientation!! The order of operation in which you put them back is important. I always lay the tread in place first, then nail the under-riser first. Then, I place the next riser in place, set the tread and nail it place... and repeat. You need each next board in place to help position the one you're nailing.

How are your woodworking skills in replacing those plywood treads? You may have to glue up some oak... and make sure your thickness is right. Otherwise, well... problems.

Keep us posted on you decision and your progress. If you get a chance, post some pictures. That will help us help you!

[Regis Galbach]

I recently replaced carpet with oak steps on box type stairs, no stringers. I found really nice oak steps that were 1/2" thick (same as the carpet) but, had a full bull nose (1 1/4"). They were 42" wide so I trimmed to fit and put new risers on. That way, all steps ended up equal. Otherwise, the 1st and last step would have been different height. Lowe's had the oak 1/2" steps.

Regis

[Joseph Tarantino]

Lowe's had the oak 1/2" steps. Regis

any chance you could check your receipt for the sku for those treads? that information could REALLY simplify a stair project i was going to carpet. thanks.

[Regis Galbach]

any chance you could check your receipt for the sku for those treads? that information could REALLY simplify a stair project i was going to carpet. thanks.
Here is the item:Item #: 326988 | Model #: 1142OAKRT
And link http://www.lowes.com/pd_326988-1487-1142OAKRT_0__?productId=3191553&Ntt=oak+stair+tred&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Doak%2Bstair%2Btred&facetInfo=

[Sean Troy]

I haven't made made up my mind yet on replacing the treads or not. The wanna be wood worker in me leads me towards refurbing the existing stairs. The risers and treads are in decent shape. I would just have to fill and sand any holes and then go over the whole tread and riser with a sanding. I've got time to make my choice as I'm starting on installing solid oak floor in the hall way that meets the steps first up stairs. That's a whole other matter. I just ripped up the carpet in the hallway and see I have a 1/4 layment down over the sub floor. I'll take that up shortly and see whats underneath that and go from there. Slow work for me as my back and shoulder are giving me problems.

[Sean Troy]

Something else I was wondering. The existing treads are nailed down, if I replace them, I would glue them down correct? There are some squeaks now that I would assume can be attributed to being nailed down?

[phil harold]

With hardwood treads and risers, if I can remove them... I repair and refinish them in the shop and reinstall them. It makes for such a better job. If you do remove them, make sure you track the order AND orientation!! The order of operation in which you put them back is important. I always lay the tread in place first, then nail the under-riser first. Then, I place the next riser in place, set the tread and nail it place... and repeat. You need each next board in place to help position the one you're nailing.


the only problem with removing them is you need temporary treads to use the stairway

[Peter Quinn]

If you can refinish in place it's better IMO. If yo have access from below you can run screws up to quiet squeaks. If not they make break away screws with a special driver to tighten stairs and floor boards from above, leaves a small hole like a nail head. http://www.123itsdone.com/If you replace some treads a construction adheasive that has some flexibility may work better than glue for two reasons. You will likely have gaps greater than glue likes between treads and stringers or subfloor, and there may also be shims involved. Second, wood moves, so let it. Don't glue 11" of solid Red oak to plywood.

[Sean Troy]

[QUOTE=Peter Quinn;1789497]If you can refinish in place it's better IMO. If yo have access from below you can run screws up to quiet squeaks. If not they make break away screws with a special driver to tighten stairs and floor boards from above, leaves a small hole like a nail head. http://www.123itsdone.com/If you replace some treads a construction adheasive that has some flexibility may work better than glue for two reasons. You will likely have gaps greater than glue likes between treads and stringers or subfloor, and there may also be shims involved. Second, wood moves, so let it. Don't glue 11" of solid Red oak to plywood.[/QUOTE

I did mean to say adhesive rather than glue. thanks

[Sean Troy]

My wife made my up my mind for me. New treads it will be. There will be no squeaking :)