Locating bench legs close to the end . . .

[Jessica Pierce-LaRose]

So, in theory, I'm building a bench. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have the top wrapped up, and then I've really got to start gathering hardware and making a concrete plan before I proceed any further.

The "overhang", and distance from the end of the bench to the leg on the right (end vise) end of the bench is most likely going to be dictated by the requirements of mounting clearance for the vise in that position. I'll probably be using a cast iron vise, and it looks like I'll need about a foot after the chop is added to the vise. (Again, I'll be waiting until everything is in hand and measurements are made before cutting into the wood)

The issue is that the bench is only 5 feet long. I'd love longer, but short is good given the space I have for working, the size of my projects, and the length of the material I started with (and got a good price on) My assumption (perhaps faulty - I'm probably overcompensating here) is that with a short bench, a wider stance might be a good thing for stabilities sake. Certainly a wider footprint is more stable, although given I can barely lift he top as it is, I doubt at a standard workbench height it's in any danger of toppling over...

I'm planning on using a leg vise on the left side of the bench - it seems to me that I could push the legs on that left side out as far as they could go - until the leg vise (probably around 8" wide?) was flush with the end of the bench. I guess this could have some advantages - if I ever wanted to rip a board vertically, I could clamp it on the outboard side of the vise and saw to the floor, but I don't think it should really matter either way.

Having never had a proper, heavy duty workbench, though, I'm not sure if I'm missing something I should be cautious of. Obviously, if I go forward with a tenon joint or some variation (like the "Roubo" style dovetail/tenon combo) between the legs and the top, I would want to make sure there was adequate stock between the mortise and end of the bench for structural strength. If the leg vise is wider than the leg is thick, I may have enough, material, I'll have to take a look. Perhaps I'll want to push the leg in a few inches there to ensure.

But barring considerations of the material strength like that, is there a reason not to push the vise out to the end of the bench like that, and basically all but eliminate the overhang on that end of the bench? Is there something I'm missing?

Sorry for what's probably a stupid question.

[Jim Matthews]

If you put a standard cast iron vise on one end, and a leg vise on the other, you have a fixed maximum size board you can hold to work on end.

I put a sliding "deadman" parallel with my leg vise, to allow holding boards longer than the length of my bench.
A Moxxon vise on top holds smaller boards that would be worked in the cast iron vise.
209883

[Kent A Bathurst]

Nah - put the vise and legs wherever you want them. The only consideration I would add is this: I am always using hand clamps around the edges of the bench to clamp stuff in odd locations for some task. Just leave enough overhang to let you use your quik-clamps, F-style bar clamps, etc. - in the "tail down" position [meaning, you need knuckle-clearance room to tighten the clamp]. With a heavy bench top, I don't think any likely position would be unstable, unless you are in the habit of standing on the very end of the bench and jumping up and down..

[Maurice Ungaro]

Joshua,I think your question is wether or not it matters if the left end of the bench has an overhang or not. Functionally I don't think it matters, aesthetically, it looks a little unbalanced. I know, that's how mine is!

[Andrae Covington]

The only functional issue I can think of offhand is: when you are clamping something in the leg vise that is wider than the vise, not only would some portion of the left part of the workpiece not be held firm by the vise jaw, but it might also not be backed up by the front edge of the workbench top, floating out there in space to the left of the end of the bench. It's a gross exaggeration to say "flapping in the breeze", but, you get the idea. It may not be enough to matter, and you could just clamp off-center.

[Rodney Walker]

Joshua,
I would recommend keeping the legs flush with the long sides of the top and inset maybe 6" from the ends. 1 ft inset may be a little unstable on a 5 ft bench.
If you are using a standard cast iron vise mounted to the end, you should be able to position it to clear the legs.
I made several mistakes building my bench.
One mistake was I mounted my vise with the iron jaws flush with the top of my bench. I did it so I could use the vise's built in dog. I regret that decision every time I'm planing something small in it. Far better to mount the vise lower and make your wooden inserts flush with the top instead.
Hope this helps,
Rodney

[Bill Houghton]

Consider building the legs on the end vise end at a slant. This will let you provide clearance for the vise but still have a wide footprint.

Actually, consider building both of them that way. Leg vises provide best clamping in a straight line between the screw and the strut at the bottom (or however you're providing the fulcrum at the bottom). A slanted leg vise will clamp vertical boards better than an up-and-down one.

[Prashun Patel]

I second Bill's idea. Splayed legs even if only in one dimension will add to the stability of your bench too. I've been experimenting with a new lathe stand, and unscientifically and purely anecdotally it appears to me that splayed legs do a better job of resisting vibration than straight up and down.