Bonsa Tool Kit

[William Adams]

A co-worker of mine has one, and I'm quite jealous. For those not familiar w/ it they were a gentleman's portable tool set from back before the turn of the century:

http://i119.photobucket.com/albums/o146/germania_photos/Bonsa1913.jpg

Photo of one here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ramsidi/7014472/

and another photo, and story of usage here:

http://www.mawsonshuts.aq/cape-denison/mawsons-fatal-journey/last-gasp.html

I'd like to put together a small, portable wood-working set to keep in my truck for use when on vacation --- I'd like to do a bit more than whittling, but not full-scale furniture construction. I've read through posts here, but haven't found any specific discussion on this --- closest was this thread:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?141768-A-basic-tool-set-Hand-tool-bug-out-bag

which had a link to this very cool set:

http://toolmakingart.com/2010/04/27/vagabond-tool-rack/

but that's a bit more involved / larger than I'd want.

I guess the question is, would it be feasible to put together such a set using multi-purpose tools and then do small-scale work w/ it w/o feeling frustrated?

I was thinking things like:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/516QADMXSZL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

Gunsmithing hammer --- http://www.amazon.com/Mascot-Precision-Tools-Hammer-Screwdrivers/dp/B0006O99O8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_npd?ie=UTF8&coliid=I2T9YB39CXRTX&colid=2UXUT1G3P902G

http://www.leevalley.com/en/images/item/woodworking/screwdrivers/88k1120s3.jpg

Reciprocating Saw Blade & Screwdriver Handle --- http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=62596&cat=1,42884,50321&ap=1

Obviously I'd need to add a combination square...

Anyone have any further suggestions for small multi-purpose tools which would be suitable for inclusion in such a kit?

William

[David Weaver]

A block plane (one that doesn't rust, maybe, though the iron will, I guess), some stuff for wire work (an all purpose needle nose plier with wire stripper holes would be good - I can't remember the brand of mine - knipex, maybe), a fine and a coarse half round file (don't have to be big ones) and either a push drill (preferably) or a couple of finger twist gimlets, and an awl.

Oh yeah, and a pencil and utility knife (which can be used either to cut or as a marking knife).

And a nice cheap $4 office supply cork backed stainless steel ruler.

[Jim Koepke]

For a portable kit, I would suggest you first consider what you will be available to work on.

The tools one would want for working dimensioned lumber versus green wood are quite different.

Some of the basics would be cutting tools like saws and chisels.

If you are making chairs from branches found at a camp site, you might want some boring tools.

If you are making small boxes in a camper, then your marking and layout tools will be important.

It is kind of like buying tools. First consider what you want to do, then the tools needed will be easier to choose.

jtk

[Tony Shea]

To add to one of David;s suggestions on the needle nose pliers (which I have a Klien pair of that I use at my day job) in the form of a leatherman. The leatherman, of late, has been one of the most widely used multi-tools on the market. And I have to agree with it's advantages with a good quality one. I personally don't carry one but used to and know many that are required to in the maintenance department.

[Simon Frez-Albrecht]

Leatherman is good to have around for those odd little things that pop up when away from home, but its not as good as a dedicated tool if the task needs to be done for more than a few minutes or every day.

I have put together a pretty simple, small toolkit that could be adapted based on where I'm going and what I expect to be working. It fits into one of those bags that came with a sawzall that someone I know bought. I have a couple of photos at the bottom of this page:
http://luv2sharpen.blogspot.com/2011/09/tfg-ne-gathering.html

When I'm limited on space, or doubt that any specific woodworking opportunities will come up, I usually take just my belt knife (Mora or similar simple Scandinavian style knife), Gransfors carving axe, a Fiskars 8" folding saw, and Mora crooked knife so that I can carve spoons. Now that I think of it, I take this kit just about everywhere with me anyways.

Another good place to seek inspiration for a small, stripped down toolkit would be Toshio Odate's book on Japanese tools and their use. It appears that his master, a door maker, typically worked out of a single, simple wood toolbox that could be carried over a shoulder. Japanese tools also tend to be a bit smaller than Western tools, so perhaps one or two Japanese planes, a couple of chisels, a midsize Ryoba (double sided saw), and a tape, ruler, and couple of other misc tools could fit into a small kit and allow you to build almost anything. Another terrific thing about Odate's book is he discusses the Japanese methods of working, most of which require nothing more than a pair of low sawhorses (low as in a 2x6 turned up on edge), and lots of body clamping. It is also interesting that frequently a Japanese craftsman would do his woodworking in the kitchen of his own home or that of his client, taking up a very small amount of space.

I don't know what kind of vacation you had in mind, but I personally find spoons to be perfect for scratching the bug while traveling. They are relatively short term projects, taking 15 minutes-2 hours to carve (depending on skills and how fancy you want to get), the result is small and easy to take home (unlike a box or something), the material can be found anywhere (any branch ~1.5" or so diameter will do), and I frequently leave a spoon or two with my host as a thank you.

If you decide to go the route of a more versatile kit than the spoon carver's, then I want to urge you to consider that you really don't need a set of everything. For example, I would probably take only a 1/4" chisel and perhaps a 1/4" mortise chisel. This would allow you to clear the waste on dovetails and chop mortises in 3/4" or larger stock. It would also allow for cutting larger cuts, just in more strokes. You could also probably just take a Stanley #5 with a few spare blades, maybe one sharpened with a camber, one with a back bevel for high angle smoothing, etc. Not quite as efficient as dedicated planes, but it would allow you to take heavy shavings, easily joint pieces up to around 30" long, and smooth work all in a smaller package than a proper set of bench planes. If you wanted to also have a block place, I would make it a skew rabbetting block plane with a knicker, so that it could be used for trimming tenon cheeks and shoulders, as well as of course cutting rabbets and fillisters. The Lee Valley small plow is a great plane (I have one) that is quite small when disassembled. Its a bit single-use, but the alternative of making-do with a chisel is a real pain in the ass, usually with poor results. I would still stick with a nice midsize ryoba saw. I use mine for everything from rough crosscutting of stock to cutting dovetails. Also, you can get multiple blades for the same handle, which saves a bit on space. Another option that I use sometimes is a single edge replaceable blade saw (like the Z Saw brand), so I can carry a single handle along with coarse and fine crosscut blades and a rip blade. I still like to have my axe. For taking off anything less than 1" from the edge of a board, or heavily reducing the thickness, its faster than sawing or scrub-planing it down. Followed by a few passes with the plane to smooth, and its good to go.

For layout, a decent try-square will do the trick, and I like having a decent tape measure and a nice 6" or 12" ruler. A marking gauge makes laying out dovetails much simpler, as well as dimensioning stock. A sliding bevel, or a cardboard dovetail template would be handy.

I think with that kit you could build damn-near anything. Not necessarily super efficiently, but you could do it in relative comfort.

Hope this helps!

[William Adams]

Thanks!

I guess I could've mentioned that this will be an adjunct to the tools in my laptop bag (Leatherman (which Tony Shea suggested --- used to always be in my pocket, but got tired of it (an original PST) wearing holes in my pants pockets, so replaced it w/ more rounded / easier to carry knives), Levenger ``Safety Case'' (modeled on the cases used by knitting machine mechanics to carry their tools) which holds a camera tool kit w/ extra bits, Spyderco Harp Tool and other odds-and-ends, and a pen/pencil case w/ a sharpener and X-Acto knife).

Jim Koepke wrote:

>For a portable kit, I would suggest you first consider what you will be available to work on.

Excellent point. The idea of adding boring tools to work w/ green wood is an interesting one.

My thanks to David Weaver for suggesting:

- block plane
- push drill
- fine and coarse half-round files

and Simon Frez-Albrecht for adding:

- Gransfors carving axe
- Mora crooked knife
- one or two Japanese planes or a Stanley #5 with a few spare blades
- a skew rabbetting block plane with a knicker
- Lee Valley small plow
- a couple of chisels (1/4" chisel and perhaps a 1/4" mortise chisel)
- a midsize Ryoba (double sided saw) or a single edge replaceable blade saw (like the Z Saw brand)
- marking gauge
- sliding bevel
- and a tape

and especially for suggesting, ``Toshio Odate's book on Japanese tools and their use'' --- added to my Amazon wish list. The link was very cool as well.

Interesting that only three of the suggested tools (Leatherman, wire pliers and the skew rabbeting plane) were designed to have multiple functions (and no one is confirming my idea of a combination square --- has anyone ever seen Starrett's early ads for them? They're a hoot). One concern is that some of these tools are nicer than what I have at my workbench.... obviously the solution is to buy more tools for my bench first.

Thanks!

[William Adams]

Instead of the combination square or marking gauge, a Stanley #1 Odd Jobs.

[george wilson]

If you go to England,be sure to have a Leatherman,because half the stuff in your room may not work!! Really,even in a 4 star hotel!! Don't buy it there,though,or you'll pay double what they cost here. Saw one for 99 pounds in a window SEVERAL years ago. I always carry my Super Leatherman,and,if active,use it several times a day.
2 blades.
one for cutting cardboard boxes open. Accurate rule,handy at the junkyard. Filed down the little screwdriver to tighten my glasses.
i had to remove the battery cables from my car and clean them one time while on the road. A tool large and strong enough to actually use,but no trouble to carry on my belt.

[Tony Shea]

I'll agree that the Leatherman is not the best tool at specific jobs that it's not dedicated for. But then again what multi-tool is? Most multi-tools fall short for specific/dedicated tasks. But I still think the Leatherman is the master of the multi-tool that fits in your pocket or belt. The Leatherman "Wave" is actually my prefered version as the original Leatherman is hard on the hands. As George has mentioned, the tool really does hold it's own when your not loaded with a truck full of tools.

[William Adams]

Okay, found some more tools to add / consider beyond the Odd Jobs and four-fold rule:

- Japanese Nail Set --- Lee Valley has what looks like a nice one, and I'm kicking myself for not having it in my wish list, added
- Flexcut Carvin' Jack, Right Hand --- is there any benefit to having the opposite-handed version?
- the Sargent small router w/ the multiple position options
- brass 3-in-1 marking gauge from Lee Valley (might have to buy the 2 extra stems)

[Jim Ritter]

If you want to stay old school these were the multi tool of the day. Sorry no photo of all the bits things in the handle but I'll take some pics tomorrow. Everything from screwdriver bits, saw blades and chisels and gouges.

http://i1135.photobucket.com/albums/m628/boatman53/47f8e4623799d0236e5906c2b1a10c36_zpsfc6719b3.jpg

Jim

[steven c newman]

Perhaps one should also look into a Stanley version, like the Stanley No. 888.

They were produced back in the 1920s.

[William Adams]

I’ve actually bid on a couple of the store-in-handle multi-tools — they are very cool, and maybe what I’ll do is get one at the end and fill it w/ tools which aren’t accounted for otherwise.

The Stanley 888 chests are very cool. I’ll definitely at least look through their contents for additional tool ideas.

Interesting cross-over between the two. The 888 contains:

Hollow Handle Tool Set Contains one each---Gimlet, File, Saw, Chisel, Reamer, Screw Driver, two Brad Awls and with extra 6 1/2 in. saw. No. 302

[Jim Koepke]

I have bought a few store-in-handle-multi-tools. They really do not do the job as well as something made for a specific job. Somewhere I have a Leatherman tool that goes unused.

The multi-tool that I do use a lot is a ratcheting screw driver handle with hex-drive bits stored inside the handle. Another is a 27 piece Chapman set. They also have a larger set now. These also make great gifts for deserving friends. Of course these are not really woodworking tool sets per se.

It is interesting William that after four and a half years you are still working on this. The best works of art or creations of man are not made overnight.

My father in law used to pack a saw in his camper so he could cut a limb off of a tree that caught his interest. Then he would use a large pocket knife to carve them into walking sticks.

Maybe a hewing axe/hatchet instead of a regular hatchet. It can be pressed into different uses.

Resist the temptation to take tools because 'they might come in handy.'

jtk

[William Adams]

Thanks!

A ratcheting and a torque driver are two other things I’ve been considering, and that definitely promotes them up. Probably some sort of T-handle driver.

This will also be including the Elemen’tary No. 1 screwdriver and the Imperial-sized slotted Felo bits I picked up for it — at some point I’ll invest in getting the full Brownells set.

The current framework is tools which I’d use often enough to justify carrying out to the back deck every time I work on a project — the balance can be fetched as needed, except that I’ll want it to be compleat enough to toss in the truck to do interesting small projects (typically boxes or cases) when on vacation. I suspect there will be a couple of tools which I’ll have at my bench and will always go get, but a few more which will be used only when traveling. I’m fine w/ that overlap / compromise.

[Luke Dupont]

You think quite like me :)

As absurd as it sounds, I have thought that it would be cool to have a multi-tool covering all the basics: Saw, File, Chisel, Awl, Knife, and see what kind of projects one could turn out with just that tool, however inefficient it might be.

I also like to travel and have tools with me to work on projects.

My kit would probably consist of:

Work holding:
1) A bench hook or two
2) A few clamps
3) a little lightweight portable woodworking vise I have that mounts on top of any table with a lip
4) A Japanese style Planing board, if I want to actually plane the surface of any boards, or have a surface to work on

All purpose tools, covering both dimensioned wood and/or green wood:
1) Saw. Maybe a general purpose bow-saw, about 9TPI. This would be okay for green wood, whilst still useful for dry wood. If you want, you could carry two blades; a finer rip blade for dry wood, and a coarser crosscut blade with more set for green wood.
2) Chisels. Don't get too specific here. A 1/4" and a 3/4" or 1" bench chisel would be a great all purpose set. I wouldn't hesitate to include a four-piece set, if you have room, though. Chisels are one of the most handy tools for almost any work that you can do, so no reason to skimp really.
3) A plane. You could go with a block plane - I've used a little Japanese plane on the go before. But, such a small plane is hard to grip if you need to do any surface planing. No need to have more than one. Just go with a nice medium size. A standard size Japanese plane, or a western smoothing plane should be fine. You might possibly want a scrub plane if you're dealing with green wood (if you use a plane at all, in that context).
4) File/Rasp
5) A small hatchet. I'd go for a double bevel, as it's more flexible.
6) A drawknife, and/or spokeshave. I've got a little swedish drawknife/"wood splitter" that is inexpensive, and fills the role pretty well.
7) Some gimlets! These are the smallest, lightest, and most useful drilling package you can get. If you want to make large things like chairs, a few auger bits and a wooden T-handle (just mortise a tapered hole for the end of the auger bit) will work just fine. Or, if you really have the space and weight is no concern, just bring a brace as well.
8) Carving knife, and/or hook knife, if you want to do spoons or bowls. Alternatively, a gouge.
9) I'd put a card scraper in there as well for smoothing surfaces and fine detail work.

Measuring/Other:
1) Basic Sharpening Equipment. Maybe a stone and a strop.
2) Knife
3) Try Square (if working with dimensioned boards)
4) Marking Gauge (if working with dimensioned boards)
5) Nails
6) Glue (if working with dry wood?)
7) Mallet


Alternatively, if you want a *really* minimal kit for dry woodworking, you could definitely consider something like:
1. Mini Douzuki
2. Japanese Block Plane
3. A few Chisels
4. Mallet
5. Gimlets
6. A half-round file
And maybe a card scraper, plus any measuring, marking, sharpening, and really basic work-holding devices you might want. Put them all in a tool roll, and you're good to go.

Likewise, for greenwoodworking, something akin to what people who practice bushcraft would be excellent:
1. Knife,
2. Bow Saw,
3. Axe,
4. Awl, Gimlets, or Auger Bits
5. Drawknife
6. Hook-knife or Gouge (if you want to do spoons or bowls, for instance)

Try to go for multipurpose tools, and pick one tool in each category that is large enough to fill its role, without being too heavy, or taking up too much space. For chisels, auger bits, or gimlets, I'd bring as many as I feel the need for and just put them all in a tool roll.