proper jointer technique

[bill walton]

I'm having a bit of trouble using my first jointer and could use some tips. It's an 8"x72" Griz unit. I seem to get wedge shaped boards. If I swap ends, I have boards that are fatter int he missle than on the ends. I'm not sure if I'm using it incorrectly or if there is some adjustment problem on the jointer itself. I've gone through the adjustment steps and itseems to be adjusted correctly. When I run an edge, I get the same result, aone end narrower than the other. Thanks in advance.
Bill

[Mike Cutler]

Bill. I don't claim to be an expert, but I'll offer my .02.
1. Place a piece of material, that has a flat edge, on top of the outfeed table. Slide it back until an inch or so of the end is centered over the cutter head, but not touching the blade.
2. Rotate the cutter head by hand, and adjust the outfeed table height so that as the cutter head blades make contact with the material, the material is moved about a 1/4". This should result in the blades of the cutterhead beaing a few thousandth's above the outfeed table.
3. Set the infeed table about 1/32" to 1/16" below the height of the outfeed table. Less is better here.
4. Mark a line along the edge of the board you want to joint, let's try about a 3 footer first, make it as straight as possible.This helps you to visually stay referenced to how much is being removed.
5. Start the jointer and position the material on the infeed table, holding it tight against the fence, one hand should be on the top of the board at the front, the other hand should be about 2/3 of the board length.Push the material forward into the cutterhead. As soon as possible, after the board has begun to clear the cutterhead, place downward pressure on the front of the board on the outfeed table. The rear hand should not be placing downward force, it should be controlling the material against the fence. Run the board thru the jointer, then check how much material was removed and from where. Keep going until it meets your line along the length.
6. Some checks you can make if you continue to have trouble are; check that each table is flat along it's length. raise both tables to the same height above the cutterhead and make sure that from end to end there are no dips or rises, then reposition them as before.
7. OH Yeah, almost forgot. When making all the adjusments, make sure the jointer is UNPLUGGED. :cool:

[bill walton]

Thanks for the reply Mike. You have described the procedure I am following pretty well. I've rechecked the tables and they both line up properly and I've checked the relationship of the outfeed table to the knives and that seems to be proper. I'm at a loss. The adjustment instructions from Grizzly say to have the outfeed table level with the blade at TDC. Is that incorrect? I've been running 1/32 passes. Perhaps I'm running boards that are too long. I've been running some 8 foot maple and sapele today. Again, thanks for the reply. I'll figure it out

[Dave Loebach]

I think you are doing everything right, but wedge shaped boards are the nature of the jointer, unless you are really, really good and keeping even pressure on the boards all the way through the jointing process. A jointer can be counted on only to give you a flat surface. That is why they don't work well for reducing the thickness of a board.

[Richard Wolf]

Hi Bill,
There is alot of techniques that go into using a jointer to true up a piece of wood that is not straight. Some people put all their pressure on the out feed table and I think that is when you end up with wedge shaped boards with a straight edge.
Take a good look at the edge of the board you want to joint. Where is the most wood have to be removed? If if is in the center, and you start cutting on the end you will have to remove alot of wood to end up with the far end straight. And it will be wedge shaped. You should hold the front edge off the table and let it start cutting as you get close to the middle. After a couple of passes the full lenght to the board can be jointed in one pass.

Try and practice with some inexpensive wood and develop your techniques.

Good luck,
Richard

[Don Henthorn Smithville, TX]

Thanks for the reply Mike. You have described the procedure I am following pretty well. I've rechecked the tables and they both line up properly and I've checked the relationship of the outfeed table to the knives and that seems to be proper. I'm at a loss. The adjustment instructions from Grizzly say to have the outfeed table level with the blade at TDC. Is that incorrect? I've been running 1/32 passes. Perhaps I'm running boards that are too long. I've been running some 8 foot maple and sapele today. Again, thanks for the reply. I'll figure it out

One of the best ways to get the outfeed table adjusted right is to be sure the outfeed table is just a little lower than the blades at TDC. Now take an 18" board and run it on edge across the cutters. You will see a two or more inch snipe at the end of the board. Raise the out feed in VERY TINY increments running the board across the cutters after each raise. When the snipe just disappears you will be at the correct heighth.

8 ft boards are a little long to handle but it can be done. I like to build some rollers the same height as my jointer tables and set them off the ends of the jointer to help handle the load. Makes it much easier and more accurate. Hope this helps.

[Mark Singer]

Pressure first on the infeed....switch to the outfeed as the board moves through. Listen your ears tell the whole story

[bill walton]

I'm surfacing QS maple so the boards are not terribly twisted or cupped just very rough. The lead end of the boards was sometimes an eighth thinner than the trailing end by the time the surface is clear and ready for the planer. Is that to be expected? I said 8' long but most were in the 6' range with a few 8 footers. I set up infeed and outfeed rollers. I will just keep working at it until I get it correct. I just can't visualize how this happens and it's not really discussed in any of the books I've read.