Silver soldering

[Reed Gray]

Any body know about this? I am looking to make a few Big Ugly tools. This is/was a traditional turning tool for the Oregon coastal myrtle wood turners. They would take some bar stock, and silver solder some tantung steel on both ends, and wear a heavy glove on the handle hand. The silver soldering is similar to the brazing that is done with circular saw carbide tips. I guess it is easier to do than the brazing. I would not trust CA glue to hold for me. I have found stellite which is almost as hard as carbide, and you can resharpen it. It is a step or two above the soldering for copper pipes, and maybe a step under brazing.

robo hippy

[Thom Sturgill]

Years ago I took a course in silversmithing and made a few pieces. There were three grades of solder we used, each melted at different temps so that you would not have to over head a thin part, or one that had already been soldered. Like regular soldering or brazing, clean the pieces so there is no oil ans coat with an appropriate flux. since you are probably attaching a square peg in a round hole, I would undersize the hole and grind the corners off the tip in order to get more contact. Place little bits of the wire (may be round or flat wire or flakes) in the spaces and heat. MAPP gas may get hot enough, I used an acetylene torch (no oxygen, just acetylene - brazing tip).

Find a rock and gem club - they usually combine other jewelry work and you can probably get one of their members to silver solder it for you or at least sell you a small amount of solder.

[Curt Fuller]

The silver soldering I've done has usually been two similar pieces. The only difference I can see in what you're doing is that you're going to have to heat the big heavy bar until the solder flows before you try to heat the cutting tip you're soldering to it. It's just like regular solder or brazing, getting the temp consistent on both pieces so the solder flows is the trick. Don't be afraid to use a little extra flux.

[Jerry Wright]

Is this "silver soldering" the same as is done for all of the soldered copper water pipes in one's house? If so, HD has everything you need in the plumbing department. Paste flux, solder wire, propane torch. Just remember to get everything hot enough so the solder flows with surface tension. You want the metal to melt the solder, not the flame. If the solder beads or balls up, the surfaces weren't clean, or the metal surfaces were not hot enough.

Jerry

[Scott T Smith]

Years ago I took a course in silversmithing and made a few pieces. There were three grades of solder we used, each melted at different temps so that you would not have to over head a thin part, or one that had already been soldered. Like regular soldering or brazing, clean the pieces so there is no oil ans coat with an appropriate flux. since you are probably attaching a square peg in a round hole, I would undersize the hole and grind the corners off the tip in order to get more contact. Place little bits of the wire (may be round or flat wire or flakes) in the spaces and heat. MAPP gas may get hot enough, I used an acetylene torch (no oxygen, just acetylene - brazing tip).

Find a rock and gem club - they usually combine other jewelry work and you can probably get one of their members to silver solder it for you or at least sell you a small amount of solder.

Thom is providing good advice. I use silver solder when I replace the carbide tips on my sawmill blades. There is a special flux (black colored) that works well with SS.

[neil mackay]

Rather than getting into along winded explanation, have a look at these links

http://www.smex.net.au/reference/SilverSoldering01.htm (http://www.smex.net.au/reference/SilverSoldering01.htm)
http://www.astronomiainumbria.org/advanced_internet_files/meccanica/easyweb.easynet.co.uk/_chrish/t-solder.htm


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kIKQ-FL96uU (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kIKQ-FL96uU)

[Reed Gray]

Thanks for the help. I have some more investigating to do. I may not want to attempt this on my own.

Jerry, it isn't what you use on copper pipe.

robo hippy

[Jerry Wright]

Reed - as you know, soldering and brazing are very similar processes, but are done at different temperatures - brazing being >850F. Your main concerns should be a properly cleaned joint, an exact fitting joint, a flux compatible with the materials being joined, and a solder material strong enough for your application. HD sells a number of flux/solder combo kits with low melting (450F) solders which are usable on materials other than copper. Most exclude aluminum and stainless steel, however they do include steels, cast iron and galvanized pipe. HD also sells small MAPP gas torches for extra heat for large sections. You might enjoy trying a few joints and giving them the "vise and hammer" test for suitable strength. As a steelmaker, I know that you will find that "heating and beating" is good for the soul!

Jerry

[Dave Ogren]

Reed, The higher percentage of silver in the solder the easier and the stronger it will be. The conventional paste flux works fine. Do not worry about the temperature, if it is too hot the solder will fall off, too cold and it will not melt. The trial and error is real fast to learn. Basically get the steel almost reddish and go. You won't have a problem at all. Good luck,
Dave

[Erik Johanson]

When I was in college we used silver solder to solder on a small screw for a block plane that we had to make. The Silver Solder we used is incredibly strong and required the use of OXY/Acetelne to melt propane just did not have enough heat. super strong stuff and easy to use, a little goes a long way.

[Richard Jones]

Reed,

Another source is Brownell's.

BTW, your mailbox is full.

Rich