hand drill restoration questions

[Martin Rock]

Hi all

I am just about to restore a miller falls hand drill no5

I have a few questions:

1- best method/product for paint removal?
2- when painting, can someone explain the whys and how of the baking procedure
3-type of paint? and any primer needed?

thanks for your tips

Martin

[Jonathan McCullough]

1- best method/product for paint removal?

I've found that lacquer thinner works best, but it's extremely noxious. You may want to experiment with citrustrip. I also use a wire brush.


2- when painting, can someone explain the whys and how of the baking procedure
3-type of paint? and any primer needed?

Shhh. Just between you and me I use high temp engine enamel in a rattle can, the 550ºF type. After two coats about a half hour apart, you can let it air dry for a day or two, then bake it at 150º-200ºF for 20-40 minutes or so. It hardens the enamel paint more quickly, so the paint isn't as gummy and prone to scraping off. In other words, it acts more like japanning.

[Martin Rock]

thanks Jonathan!

another question: the pinions turn/rides on a shalf, so does the main geared wheel. what type of lubricant could I use that would stay there longer.

Martin

[daniel lane]

I haven't used it in that particular application, but I'd think that one of the PTFE bicycle chain "dry" lubes would work great here - shouldn't get gummy, but like I said...haven't used it in this application.

In a somewhat related question, has anyone removed or cleaned-in-place under the top handle/pad on a 2101A brace? I bought one recently that feels like it's got chewing gum in there, and I can't imagine that's normal.


daniel

[Jonathan McCullough]

For a No. 5 I wouldn't use anything; it'll just attract dirt, and it's made it this long without lubricant! One thing you could do when you "bake" it is to melt some paraffin wax on the gears when it comes out. Paraffin is good for vise screws and other clutzy heavy-duty things that need occasional lubrication, but need to be clean enough to brush off sawdust and/or not attract dirt. Yankee ratcheting drills are different, because the mechanism is enclosed, so a little 3-in-1 or sewing machine oil works on those. Ratcheting push screwdrivers too, because the helical thingee creates too much friction for just wax to work.

As for 2101 disassembly, this (http://www.georgesbasement.com/fs2101a.htm) is the best I can come up with, but it doesn't mention the pad.

[Rick Whitehead]

In a somewhat related question, has anyone removed or cleaned-in-place under the top handle/pad on a 2101A brace? I bought one recently that feels like it's got chewing gum in there, and I can't imagine that's normal.


daniel[/QUOTE]

Daniel,
Be careful when you take the pad off . There are loose ball bearings in there!
First of all, apply some oil in the hole on the side of the metal part underneath the pad. Then try to rotate it and see if it doesn't move more smoothly.
To dis-samble the pad, remove the three screws underneath it. Then unscrew the pad.That will reveal a ring holding the metal part of the pad to the brace. Remove that ring while holding the pad uppermost. If you don't , the bearings will fall out. Then carefully slide the metal part up, while holding a rag underneath to catch the bearings. Clean everything well, and re-assemble.
If you lose some bearings, they are available from McMaster-Carr in batches of 100. (If you need some, I have some!)
Hope this helps.
Rick

[Bill Moser]

To dis-samble the pad, remove the three screws underneath it. Then unscrew the pad.That will reveal a ring holding the metal part of the pad to the brace.

So, I don't have any problems with the pad on my 2101A, but I'm always up for dissecting things. Mine only has two screws. I've taken them out and the hard rubber part is totally stuck to the metal cup. Rapping it with hammer a few times didn't do the trick. Is it possible that the cap is glued to the cup?

[Trevor Walsh]

I like the Rustoleum pro enamel, I just did a MF breast drill with it. I'll post some pictures today. I used a media blaster to remove the rust and work japanning. I still have to find a replacement screw and brighten up the handles. Pictures to come...

[Dave Lehnert]

I like the Rustoleum pro enamel, I just did a MF breast drill with it. I'll post some pictures today. I used a media blaster to remove the rust and work japanning. I still have to find a replacement screw and brighten up the handles. Pictures to come...

Like to see the photo's.
What type of media did you use in the blaster?

[Rick Whitehead]

So, I don't have any problems with the pad on my 2101A, but I'm always up for dissecting things. Mine only has two screws. I've taken them out and the hard rubber part is totally stuck to the metal cup. Rapping it with hammer a few times didn't do the trick. Is it possible that the cap is glued to the cup?

I don't think it's glued, but it may have shrunk in place and tightened. Try holding the metal part in a vise and try to unscrew the pad by hand. If that doesn't work, try channel-locks.
Good luck!
Rick

[Bill Moser]

I don't think it's glued, but it may have shrunk in place and tightened. Try holding the metal part in a vise and try to unscrew the pad by hand. If that doesn't work, try channel-locks.
Good luck!
Rick

Thanks Rick, that did it! Just in case anyone else wants to try this, I used a vise grip, with a couple of pieces of thick leather on the jaws. That setup protected the brace, but the walls of the connector at the bottom of the cup are sloped, and the leather was slippery, so I couldn't tighten the vise grip enough to get a good grip on the connector. What I did was to take a small finishing nail (4 or 6d i think) and stick the dead in the connectors lube port, and bend it into an L shape. Leaving the nail in the lube port, I re-applied the vise grip over it, and now had the grip I needed on the connector to spin the cap off.

[Trevor Walsh]

Dave, I'm positive it was silicon carbide, and if luck is on my side I'll recall correctly that it was 80 grit or thereabouts.

Pics coming soon, one more moving load trip (it's only 5 minutes away) and I'll snap some.